Here's a good page to describe starter problems, much better than I could do:

Starter Check-out

And rebuilding...

Rebuilding a starter

Hope this helps...

R

 

If you decide to remove the start there is something you need to know. The starter in these old Ford are held into the bellhousing with two long 1/4" bolts. One bolt goes through a bracket that is also bolted to the oil pan. These two bolts also hold the starter together so when you loosen the bolts only loosen them enought to unthread from the bellhousing, don't pull them completely out or the entire starter will fall apart. Carefully remove the entire starter as one unit. The starter drive may hang up a little but you should be able to finaggle it out of the bellhousing. If you are going to bench test it , or have someone else do it, install a 1/4" nut on the ends of bolts to hold the start together.

I am positive you're not going to able to buy either a new or rebuilt starter, you'll probably end up having your starter rebuilt, if it turns out to be bad. Most reputable starter rebuilders will test you starter if you don't know how.

Also, my first recommendation to anyone working on these old trucks, or any vehicle, is to get a shop manual. The shop manual for the '48-52 truck is very, very good and has 99% of the information you will need to work on your truck, everything from how to check your truck's components to every toque specification. You can buy them from anyone who sells reproduction truck parts and they show up on eBay on a regular basis. They cost around $35-40 but are worth every penny.

 

I'm told the old 6-volt systems take alot of amps...this being said, a weak battery will fail in colder weather and have a better chance when warmer. Getting a new battery with high cold cranking amp rating and cleaning all your grounds and connections would go a long way to a fix.
It's nice to find a low-mile stocker...looking forward to some pics!
Ed

 

Another reason to go with 12V is the availablity of batteries. I rarely see 6V batteries for sale in auto parts or bigger type department stores, because the demand for 6V just isn't there anymore and it's not worth stocking them for one or two customers. 12V is easy to find when you need one.

 

For stock trucks no part is easy to get so why worry about the 6V battery? I have never had a problem finding 6V batteries. The along with places that sell only batteries like Batteries Plus and a few industrial dealers around town, I find them at the local farm supply stores.

I like being different when I go to cruise ins and car shows. It's amazing how many young motorheads mistake the flattie for some kind of Hemi and they are curious by a lot of simple things on my truck that aren't seen on the newer cars like the 6V battery. Not many of the younger kids realize that at one time trucks were run on 6V, and negative ground.

 

[QUOTE=bobj49f2]For stock trucks no part is easy to get so why worry about the 6V battery? I have never had a problem finding 6V batteries. The along with places that sell only batteries like Batteries Plus and a few industrial dealers around town, I find them at the local farm supply stores.

I agree with ya to a point there bob. However, you have to remember I live in California, so a local farm supply store is pretty hard to find (in fact I don't know if one even exists????). At least not in my area? I was only referring that a 12V is easier to purchase due to the fact that 12V is more common now in both daily drivers and hotrods, therefore that is what most auto parts and battery places want to carry. Personally, if I could keep it all original and stay with the 6V, I'd do that. I'm only trying to give suggestions or other possibilities to look at. I forgot 6V is still readily available in other parts of the country. Thanks for clarifying...

 

No problem, that's what this board is all about, exchanging ideas. The great thing about this country is the overall size of the place. Sometimes we, in one part of the country, don't realize we can get an item, or service, that someone in another part of the country can't get. That's why I like to travel to different states on our family vacations. I try to find food and regional customs in the different parts of the country we travel to. It's amazing how different WI is from CA, PA, WY and other states.

 

Well, I cleaned all the connections and found a lot of rust and oxidation. The batterty cables were all cracked out and in bad shape so I replaced them. The truck starts now with no problems. I've been driving it around town with no starting problems. The lights will dim while I'm driving so I'm going to see how all the grounds on that look. I will post pics in the next few days. I love the looks I get driving it around. Good times!!!!

 

Cool! Got to know you have found the trouble. The grounds are good place to start. If the truck has been sitting for some time the generator could have some issues, that's why the lights might be dimming as you're driving it.

These old trucks are fun, once you get one problem solved another seems to pop up. It can be frustrating but when you solve it it's very satifying.

 

It could be connections, but more likely just the nature of the beast. A generator doesn't put out juice until 12-1500 rpms. Below that you're pulling from the battery for lights and any accessories.

Idling around town would most likely be below that threshhold. Go down a gear to keep your rpms up and I bet it brightens right up. Watch your amp gauge and you'll see the difference too.

Don't let your face crack from grinning too hard. Don't you love being the center of attention - ya just never get over it. Enjoy your ride!
Tim