rusted oil pan
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 870
Likes: 0
From: Mountaintop, PA
2 ways of doing it, two different opinions. No personal attacks please, its the holidays anyway. My dad would cut and weld, I would pull the engine. It just the way the world is gonna be. If money is tight when mine starts leaking, I would give the cut weld a shot. And that is only because I know the best welder in the world.
By the way, custom hitches are welded to the frame all the time. They are stronger and safer than class III hitches amd I would rather see someone pulling a load properly with a custom heavy duty hitch welded to the frame than overloaded on a class III. JMO.
By the way, custom hitches are welded to the frame all the time. They are stronger and safer than class III hitches amd I would rather see someone pulling a load properly with a custom heavy duty hitch welded to the frame than overloaded on a class III. JMO.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 3,162
Likes: 1
From: Vilonia Arkansas
Originally Posted by pullinair
2 ways of doing it, two different opinions. No personal attacks please, its the holidays anyway. My dad would cut and weld, I would pull the engine. It just the way the world is gonna be. If money is tight when mine starts leaking, I would give the cut weld a shot. And that is only because I know the best welder in the world.
By the way, custom hitches are welded to the frame all the time. They are stronger and safer than class III hitches amd I would rather see someone pulling a load properly with a custom heavy duty hitch welded to the frame than overloaded on a class III. JMO.
By the way, custom hitches are welded to the frame all the time. They are stronger and safer than class III hitches amd I would rather see someone pulling a load properly with a custom heavy duty hitch welded to the frame than overloaded on a class III. JMO.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 25,090
Likes: 1,112
From: Rio Rico, AZ.
Originally Posted by FordGuy_till I die
I build cars myself. I have welded countless frames.If you know what you are doing,it is usually stronger than the factorys job.I know the frame needs to be flexible on many applications,but I did not alter the engineering by welding the Xmember back together in this case.
Hell,it has a HUGE hole right in the middle anyway!
Too bad Ford didn't make that hole just a bit bigger...
Hell,it has a HUGE hole right in the middle anyway!
Too bad Ford didn't make that hole just a bit bigger...
A 220v wire feed?
Infidel
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,115
Likes: 2
From: Elkhorn WI
ok...heres a serious question on how to replace the oil pan without removing the engine...completly!
would it be possible to raise the engine high enough to remove the crossmember(cut rivets) then go that route? Might have to disconnect a few things like the exhaust, fuel lines (maybe the trans.)
Anybody know of any "intsructions" to remove a 7.3 from a SD? Like step by step instructions????
would it be possible to raise the engine high enough to remove the crossmember(cut rivets) then go that route? Might have to disconnect a few things like the exhaust, fuel lines (maybe the trans.)
Anybody know of any "intsructions" to remove a 7.3 from a SD? Like step by step instructions????
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Thanks for all of your responses. As my pan is not leaking, I will try to repair it first. However, in my experience, once something has started to rust it is only a matter of time until the rust wins out regardless of what type of repair you try. And by the way I don't consider myself "careless enough to let my pan rust". I don't crawl under my truck on a dialy basis to check everything out. I live in Michigan where the roads get salted all winter long so if you don't own a trailer queen that never gets driven your vehicle WILL get rusted on the underside if you leave the factory finish on parts. I would have expected Ford to use a better material or coating on the oil pan because the trans pan looks like it is going to go forever.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 2,726
Likes: 5
From: Slatington, PA
Since its not rusted through yet, I'd reccomend POR-15. It works great on rusted metal. Check it out and see for yourself. http://www.por15.com/ We used it on my brothers truck frame and it held up great. Just take the time to do it right and you wont have future problems. Good Luck!
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 17,988
Likes: 207
From: La La Land
Originally Posted by king121893
However, in my experience, once something has started to rust it is only a matter of time until the rust wins out regardless of what type of repair you try.
It's remarkable stuff.
Prep is everything!
Pop
Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 198
Likes: 0
From: Albany, NY
First off, I agree, new ideas need to be initiated and tried, if it fails, oh well. The best inventions were designed based on many people saying it shouldn't be done.
That being said, some like Fords, some like Dodges and some like Chevys and so on......
my point being is that there is a seat for every butt.....do what you want, that's the beauty of America. BOTH ways work, and I can tell you I WOULD do the cut and weld thing myself with full confidence.
Ford (and many manufacturers) all say NOT to modify anything on their vehicles.....plows, hitches, exhaust, etc.
I have a Ford Buddy who says he can disconnect the motor-mounts and raise the front of the moter enough to wressle out the oil pan.....he hates doing it, but has done a few on his tow trucks.
Anyway, whatever works and whatever you prefer is it........
That being said, some like Fords, some like Dodges and some like Chevys and so on......
my point being is that there is a seat for every butt.....do what you want, that's the beauty of America. BOTH ways work, and I can tell you I WOULD do the cut and weld thing myself with full confidence.
Ford (and many manufacturers) all say NOT to modify anything on their vehicles.....plows, hitches, exhaust, etc.
I have a Ford Buddy who says he can disconnect the motor-mounts and raise the front of the moter enough to wressle out the oil pan.....he hates doing it, but has done a few on his tow trucks.
Anyway, whatever works and whatever you prefer is it........
Junior User
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 72
Likes: 0
How about you just tig weld a patch on the oil pan right over the leaking area? If youre going to cut corners by not removing the engine, just eliminate any corners, right?
That is just awesome!!!!
Props to u man....lol
Elder User
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 853
Likes: 1
forgot to mention.Get the starter kit.It comes with everything you need.To include the ruber gloves.I think it was $25.You on ly get a 4oz. can with that.I thought it might not be enough.Turns out I put three coats on and still had plenty left over.
New User
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
I have a 2000 psd and I cut the crossmember out (with no adverse effects mind you) The problem is that I still have leaks. I tried it twice. There seems to be a huge gap at the back off the pan. Is this gap normal? I think I'm just not getting enough Ultra black RTV on it but I am not sure the gap should be that big. It's about a half inch. What should I do? I have never had this kind of problem sealing an oil pan. What gives?