Another Cold Starting Problem
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Freshman User
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Another Cold Starting Problem
Hello All,
I have a 99 F350 7.3 that has been getting harder and harder to start when it gets cold. I dont want to throw money at it and hope the problem goes away. I was wondering if anyone has any ideas to what could be the most common problem.
Thanks
I have a 99 F350 7.3 that has been getting harder and harder to start when it gets cold. I dont want to throw money at it and hope the problem goes away. I was wondering if anyone has any ideas to what could be the most common problem.
Thanks
Smokin
Joined: Jun 2006
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Originally Posted by Dually77
Hello All,
I have a 99 F350 7.3 that has been getting harder and harder to start when it gets cold. I dont want to throw money at it and hope the problem goes away. I was wondering if anyone has any ideas to what could be the most common problem.
Thanks
I have a 99 F350 7.3 that has been getting harder and harder to start when it gets cold. I dont want to throw money at it and hope the problem goes away. I was wondering if anyone has any ideas to what could be the most common problem.
Thanks
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...ke-thread.html
Here are the common cold-start-related issues:
Problem #1) Bad Glow Plug Relay
Problem #2) worn out batteries
Problem #3) bad battery cables
Problem #4) Bad Glow Plugs
Problem #5) Worn out starter
Check the voltage on your batteries. If they check out okay, check the GPR. It is located on the passenger's side of the motor, next to the fuel filter, just above the valve cover.
The relay has two posts. One is constant power, and one has power only when your key is in the on position. It will be obvious which is the constant. If you have a meter, you can check the power to the large posts on the relay. One will have constant current, and one will not have current. Have someone turn the key to the on position and check the current going through the second post. If you suddenly get current, your relay is working. If not it's fried. You can jump the posts with a screwdriver (with insulated handle) while you have someone turn the truck over and the truck should start easily (if indeed the relay is bad).
Two good places to start.
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I found that I have a bad glow plug relay. Replaced it and the truck ran fine for a week. Now it starts great but is missing on one cylinder, pulling up a faulty injector code. The truck has about 150k on it and I have been told that this is about how long the OEM injectors last.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Texas
I would start by checking the connections to the UVCH (under valve cover harness). Start by making sure the connector that plugs in to the side of the valve covers is snapped tight. If it looks good then test for continuity on the under valve cover wires.
It's a 9 pin connector with the center pin being a ground. You can ohm the wires to check for resistance. I believe the outside 2 pins on each side are the 4 glow plug wires. Check both the left and right bank. It's fairly common to see a loose connector or chaffed wires under the valve cover. Do you get a check engine light when the truck is running rough?
I still have the factory injectors in my truck.
It's a 9 pin connector with the center pin being a ground. You can ohm the wires to check for resistance. I believe the outside 2 pins on each side are the 4 glow plug wires. Check both the left and right bank. It's fairly common to see a loose connector or chaffed wires under the valve cover. Do you get a check engine light when the truck is running rough?
I still have the factory injectors in my truck.
