Anybody know where i can get stock or aftermarket carb linkage? My stock unit is pretty sloppy. Thanks

 

I suggest that you convert to the older cable system if you have the rods. They turned out to be a bad idea and Ford went back to the cable. IMHO



John

 

Manual or automatic transmission?

1967/72 automatics have a bellcrank (70/72 360/390: D0TZ-7A185-B) mounted on the intake manifold...it has replaceable bushings...where the problems usually arise.

 

I have removed the bellcrank, and built a straight rod for mine. Much simplier and works great. Couple of bucks at your local hardware store will get it done. Two "heim" rod ends and pc of threaded rod.

Remove old linkage, have someone hold the pedal at WOT and you hold carb at WOT. Measure distance between carb hole and pedal arm hole. Make linkage fit this distance, and your in business.

 

Yes, automatic..... Bell crank. So that's what they call that over engineered gizmo. Yes it is sufficiantly worn out with tons of slop. Thanks all.

 

I used a cable and pedal out of a late 70's Lincoln Mark V on mine. Had to redrill a few holes, but an easy switch....

 

Does anyone know where I can order some or how to swap it over to something else I snapped the threaded rod that hooks up to the firewall.

 

I went through this myself recently on my '67 F100 with the 352. When I bought it, the previous owner had pulled off the whole original linkage and installed a single link, like what Freightrain is describing. Just one link running from the gas pedal arm to the carb arm, with a single return spring. Simple, and it worked reasonably well.

So you understand, the whole reason for that complicated linkage (I call it the Trapeze linkage) that Ford installed was to compensate for the shifting of the engine in the mounts. If you've noticed, the FE engine moves around in the motor mounts a lot, even when the mounts are good. It swings right under torque, left under engine braking, back while accelerating, and forward while braking. If you have tight clearances on any exhaust parts, you'll get all kinds of clanking and banging.

So, that's why they added that second bellcrank on the pivoting sub-bellcrank, with the link running up to the bracket on the firewall. As the engine moves in relation to the firewall, the trapeze linkage changes its effective length so that the throttle doesn't get yanked open or closed by the engine movement. Theoretically, anyway. In practice, there are too many links and holes and add-up of slop. It was a poor design.

Note: A jacketed cable is another way to make a throttle linkage that automatically compensates for that engine movement. Although they have some wear and lubrication issues, it's a simple system. That's why most manufacturers went to throttle cables. Two things to remember about them: 1.) You need to rout the cable so that it has some "S" bend in it to allow for that engine movement. 2.) both ends of the cable jacket need to be solidly anchored, one to the firewall and one to the engine.

Anyway, on my F100 with the single link rig I could really notice the effects of the engine torquing in the mounts. It was making the acceleration sluggish and delayed and causing the engine to race during heavy braking (not a good thing with an auto trans!). I saw a guy selling a complete original '67 trapeze linkage on ebay, so I bought it. I'm trying to keep my F100 all factory, so it sounded like a plan.

I installed the trapeze linkage, and it definitely made a difference in how the engine accelerated and responded. The racing during braking went away too. But the slop was horrible. It felt like you had to push the pedal two inches before the throttle began to move. I had installed it just as shown in the manual, with a second fairly heavy spring running across the top between the tops of the carb arm and the compound bellcrank arm. There's a also return spring running from the carb arm down to the manifold. That's what the book shows.

However, the fix was surprisingly dumb and simple. I took off that upper spring and replaced it with, literally, a piece of baling wire. I snugged the wire down to pull all of the slop out of the linkage and twisted the ends securely. It may be crude, but it works. It acts as an upper link and holds all of the slop in one direction. Now the Trapeze linkage works fine and feels good. I may do something more elegant later, but for now I'm happy. I should have been a Ford engineer!

 

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I'm running a 300 I6 with a motocraft single barrel carb my left motor mount blew apart and the engine went flying into the radiator I need to figure out how to fix this being as I can't seem to find a new piece.

 

Joseph;

If you can't find something close in a junkyard or an auto parts store, you should be able to make up a replacement link. It's just a piece of mild steel rod, with one end bent to a right angle, and the other end threaded (I think it's 10-24, but I'd have to check). You'd unthread that broken stub from the little round end fitting that's on the bellcrank, and thread your replacement into there.

Or, you could splice the broken link with a short length of steel tubing that slips over it, brazing it together.

 

K thanks I'll look into doing that, I'm gonna hold off on that I can't seem to get my engine to slide far enough back to line up the motor mounts the engine is sitting about 1/4" or so to far forward..