Ok, I've done the search thing and can't find what I'm looking for so here's the question...

I'm looking to build a replacement for my wimpy engine stand. It did fine for a small block and some sixes but my next project is a 460 that will top 700 #s fully dressed. My stand will hold the weight but it's a strain and turning it is near impossible. Grease in the head end helped some but....

I want to build something with bearings in the 'head' that can support the load and turn easily. I borrowed one once that the Nat Guard built for deisel engines and it was sweet. Bearings front and rear and it turned like a dream. bolt thru welded nut on top applied the brakes. Seriously heavy duty. I've heard of one built with the end pieces of truck/car rearends cut down (with the axle bearings in place) and using the axle for the center rod the end engine mouting plate was welded to. Also heard of some using front car spindles or trailer spindles.

Anyone got any plans or pics of what I'm talking about. 700#s is a pretty good end load so it needs to be somewhat substantial... I'd rather have one that turned too easily and I had to adapt some braking than one that I can't turn at all by myself (which is how I do most of my work).

tia and Merry Christmas to all of you here.

John
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My "project truck" has turned into 'garage art' !!!

 

I like the idea of using common wheel bearings, so what about using a stub axle that has a 4-bolt flange? I know old Dodge Caravans used a piece like this on the rear. The important thing for a heavy engine is the strength of the vertical tube that holds the head. Are you starting from scratch to build this, or modifying a cheapo?

If I were making my dream stand, I'd also make a plate (maybe 1/2" thick) with short tubes for the bolt that go into the back of the block, and in the exact locations for a specific engine -- I hate those adjustable arms! Keeping the load closer to the head helps too.

The ideal would be the double-ended stand that someone posted on here about 3 months ago, using the motor mount pads to connect to (on the sides).

 

The PoPeel Version

http://www2.northerntool.com/product/200349940.htm

 

I'm thinking about modifying my "cheapie", with a plate on top, with two pillow blocks for bearings, and a shaft to go through them. Haven't figured out all the details, yet, as I have a block on it now, and man, it's TOUGH to turn it. But, when I build another stand for my block, I'll be looking seriously into it. Hopefully, not too long...

R

 

I can go either way... I have a homebuilt stand that I could modify or start from scratch and build what I need... I've got a load of 4" and 3" and 2" tubing.

depending on design I'd probably start from scratch though

here's a pic (sorta) of my old one 2" tube and 2.5" pipe for head end


I'd like to see some pics of others projects... and Dick, the one at Northern looks good but the price is too high

j

 

Liberate the design, set it free

 

Ronco doesn't make a good one, but Acme Freight has a big selection - some big enough for locomotive engines. Tell'm the roadrunner sent ya.....

 

I am not trained in posting pics in my post but there are three pics of my homebuilt engine stand using parts for the pivot from a 9 inch rear axle. Check out the album titled engine stand.

 

That's nice, 49W! I like how you used plate to stiffen the post against bending. Likewise on John N.'s stand there is a kicker halfway up the post to reduce bending.

 

This is from 49W

 

so is this what I'm seeing Dick ??? Nice Design Bill... that's the first picture I've been able to get posted...

j

 

I did not build this stand myself. An old friend (deceased) built it for another friend. I got it with an original rebuilt 289 K motor out of a burned 66 shelby mustang that I was originally going to install in a 33 phaeton that I was going to build. I gave up on the phaeton (too far gone) and sold the motor but kept the stand. I plan to use this stand plus another stand to make a rotisserie to paint my truck frame. I wish that I had a pair. The centerline of the axle is 37 inches above the floor which is enough to swing the frame and the running board braces should clear the floor. I guess that I have owned the stand for over 20 years. The guy that built the stand had a welding shop and before I knew him raced flatheads drag racing in the early 50's. He was a new england class champion one of those early years.

 

Check out the piece that the axle is welded to.
Also I would weld a large nut to the back end of the axle, then I could put a big ol ratchet on it to turn that engine over.

 

I think this is the one you were talking about - I saved the picture, I like it as well. You could use two of the "cheapies", and have a very safe, strong engine stand...stable, too!

I would mount it, using the exhaust manifold mount holes, possibly. Then, there wouldn't be anything you couldn't do, with it on the mount. If it was on the water pumps, you couldn't change them.


R

 

getting the mount point right for a particular engine will be fun tho..

trying to turn over an off-center 460 would be pretty dangerous..

Sam