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Axle shims?

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Old Dec 24, 2007 | 10:58 PM
  #16  
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Then just gun it off the line everytime and get out of that 1-2mph range as quick as possible!

You dont run with your hubs locked do you?
 
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Old Dec 24, 2007 | 11:03 PM
  #17  
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The more throttle I give it, the more severe the shake is (although it gets shorter in duration). Light throttle = longer and softer shake, heavy throttle = quick and more jarring shake.

And no I don't run it with the hubs locked.
 
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Old Dec 24, 2007 | 11:09 PM
  #18  
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Your from California, what are you doing stopping anyways?!

With the add-a-leaves were the stock bumpstops removed from the rear axle? If so then the alignment would be off just enough to give a very annoying SHAKE until the rpms climb high enough to cause enough axle wrap to twist it into alignment.
 
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Old Dec 25, 2007 | 12:22 AM
  #19  
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Bumpstops on the axle?? Huh? There's bumpstops on the frame but the leaves aren't anywhere near those at resting position. I don't think that I've got axle wrap problems since I'm on stock blocks with stronger springs...
 
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Old Dec 25, 2007 | 12:34 AM
  #20  
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On the axle perches between the axle and springs... Im not sure what purpose they serve but they are there (or supposed to be) on all 8.8, 9", and 10.25" ford rear axles. They are generally supposed to be removed with lifts (replacment spring or blocks) but since you have neither i was thinking that if the bumpstops have been removed the D shaft input angle might be binding until the axles becomes "live" (power running through). Axle wrap isnt the best way to describe it, but im not sure how to otherwise... An inert axle (no components moving) is not in the same position as a live axle. Does that make sence?
We ran into this problem in one of the drag cars, where at launch the end would hop and kill off the line traction. We thought it was normal axle hop until we realized the rear end in the car had ground down perches which was leading to a kinked angle on the pinion.
 
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Old Dec 25, 2007 | 11:15 AM
  #21  
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From: savannah,ga
I say its your pinion angle
you must have the angle from the rear to the trans
and any union in between equal to the others
and there must be angle at each one to ensure the bearings inside rotate
when one angle changes (add a leaf) then you must adjust the others to match
you may have to take it to a drive line specialist to get rid of all the vibration
an angle finder will be your most useful tool now to compare the differant
drive shaft angles, as you may have gone too far and may need to back up
hope this makes sense
from the picture the shafts look too striaght to each other
M
 

Last edited by mhg; Dec 25, 2007 at 11:22 AM.
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Old Dec 25, 2007 | 06:07 PM
  #22  
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I have 4 inch blocks and 35s and mine dont shake at takeoff. I dont beleive your pinion is that far out. ??? Take it 4 wheelin and let it eat, whatever is loose should brake then you can fix it. Just kiddin.
 
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Old Dec 25, 2007 | 07:07 PM
  #23  
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At my old shop we lifted an 05 Excursion i believe, if they made them that year, 6.0 PSD, with Bully Dog Crazy Larry setup. That thing was so quick. Anyway the Superlift that was put on ended up being higher in the front then the back. Owner wanted it higher in the back, didnt want to change to lift leafs, or add-a-leafs. Boss was going to put 2 blocks on top of each other but you cant do that so he had a set custom made. We had to buy them axle shims to point it toward the tcase caus guy who made the blocks forgot to make them angled. Mercer Spring is in Trenton NJ, im sure if you cant find them I can pick you up a set and ship them out. Let me know. Oh yea the block was like 5-6" super unsafe but shut the customer up. Thats why I left that place.
 
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Old Dec 25, 2007 | 07:25 PM
  #24  
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Im not familiar with that 2 pc driveshaft, but maybe the splines are getting worn out. Does that center slip joint have a grease fitting for splines?
 
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Old Dec 26, 2007 | 03:01 PM
  #25  
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It should be a greasable carrier bearing.......

JR
 
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Old Dec 26, 2007 | 03:14 PM
  #26  
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I have greased the slip yoke and replaced the carrier bearing already.
 
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Old Dec 26, 2007 | 03:41 PM
  #27  
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Just curious, but how far out can you pull the driveshaft back if you unbolt it from rearend. I see alot of yoke showing like its not pushed in very far. Looks better were going into tranmission.
 
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Old Dec 26, 2007 | 05:12 PM
  #28  
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dont beat me over this chris lol

but my friends Honda FIT,, front wheel drive automatic has that shudder shake to

the same that you are experencing... same same harder trottle more shake shorter period less trottle les shaking longer period

but he fixed the problem
it was the tranny slipping ( so they said at HONDA ) but the car was under garentee becuase it was brand new and they replaced the tranny and no more shakes..

just a hint
 
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Old Dec 26, 2007 | 07:31 PM
  #29  
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Yeah I've always been afraid that it's somethin to do with my tranny... I was thinking about replacing my torque converter anyways since I'm going to be pulling our heavy boat pretty soon and I figure I could use something a bit stronger... Perhaps that will fix the problem.

And no, neither the yoke nor the carrier bearing have grease zerks, although I did replace the CB and greased both slip yokes real good when I replaced the u-joints. Everything on the rear driveshaft is new but the shaft itself...
 
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Old Dec 26, 2007 | 08:20 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Skandocious
Yeah I've always been afraid that it's somethin to do with my tranny... I was thinking about replacing my torque converter anyways since I'm going to be pulling our heavy boat pretty soon and I figure I could use something a bit stronger... Perhaps that will fix the problem.

maybe bud,,since the previos owner towed boates with it right? btw mary Xmas
 
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