AWD 4.0 Long bed owners....PLEASE speak
#1
AWD 4.0 Long bed owners....PLEASE speak
I am thinking very hard about buying a 95 AWD long bed with 130k on it.AWD owners what problems, or success have you had with the Aerostar AWD????
We have a RWD shorty and love it, but need input from AWD owners as to the reliability of the AWD 4.0
Thanks
We have a RWD shorty and love it, but need input from AWD owners as to the reliability of the AWD 4.0
Thanks
#2
I have had very few problems with mine aside from basic maintenance, or rather lack thereof from the previous owner. As far as the AWD system itself, a couple things to look out for. There is a boot (or at least there should be) at the base of the front shaft on the front of the transfer case. This boot protects the splined shaft from water and corrosion. If this boot fails or is missing, water gets inside the splines and causes them to rust. Once they seize, the front driveshaft can not longer slide in and out to relive stresses in the shaft. This can result in 2 outcomes. Either the u-joint will fail from the increased stress, of the transfer case will crack. The fluid will then drain out and the transfer case can be further damaged from the lack of lubrication. So just have this checked from time to time, and should the boot become compromised, it needs to be replaced with a suitable unit. The OEM boots are next to impossible to get these days, but there are number of CV boots that can be easily adapted to work, some are possibly superior for the job. It should be repacked with marine grade grease, the same stuff used to pack wheel bearings on boating trailers.
The speed sensors can fail, causing the unit to lock-up when it is not supposed to. This is most commonly noticed as a binding or clunking during sharp turns on dry pavement. A good quick fix is to unplug the AWD computer located under the seat. I actually drive it around in this condition most of the time and have observed no ill effects. And even without the lockup option, it still seems to have excellent traction on ice and snow.
The engine is solid, with only a minor history of problems. I'm sure others can pitch in more information on this, as I have not experienced any problems with my engine.
The speed sensors can fail, causing the unit to lock-up when it is not supposed to. This is most commonly noticed as a binding or clunking during sharp turns on dry pavement. A good quick fix is to unplug the AWD computer located under the seat. I actually drive it around in this condition most of the time and have observed no ill effects. And even without the lockup option, it still seems to have excellent traction on ice and snow.
The engine is solid, with only a minor history of problems. I'm sure others can pitch in more information on this, as I have not experienced any problems with my engine.
#4
Vegas van, Click on my name and it will take you to my past story of my transfer case failure and replacement of the unit. The Shorty and long are the same in wheel base, which would have made for even a better ride should Ford have stretched that as well. Right now what I'm dealing with is to go into and replace all of my front end items. It has 180 thou. plus and is now in need of a new boot on the CV joint at the driverside wheel, my rubber seal on the pass. is torn, pass. side's ball joint is rubber grommet is missing, basically a front end job. I took it in to Big 10 tire to get a basic idea of what it would cost just to see. When I got the estimate back it showed a grand just in labor alone and 400 for parts. I have never done suspension items, but I will now learn. I've done everything else from painting, to welding etc...so this should be nothing that I can't handle. I'd much rather pay for the front -end alignment afterwards. What, 50 to 100 bucks? I think I can much handle that a little bit better. I already figured that I can get everything needed for about 250 and then all that it is is THE TIME! Got plenty of that. I'll write down all of the items I've changed and even the pics and when I'm done I'll post away on here into another album. I've already done something everyone else was afraid of. I've got an (rear slide) sun roof in my 94 4.0 long.--C ya Boz
#5
#7
Remember that it is a 13 year old vehicle, and any vehicle that age will require some repairs.
Now with that said, The AWD Aero is one of the most reliable AWD vans/trucks out there. Yes it has its little quirks like Bozz and Bear River have mentioned. I would also recomend a complete test drive, with an inspection from a mechanic that you trust (plus physically looking at the underside for leaks/damage) Check fluids, make sure everything works, lights heater/a/c, windows, doors and make an offer based on what you find, or move on. These are not rare beasts, so there is always a better one out there.
I can't believe I am recomending one, because my AWD needs headgaskets, front dif seals, endlinks, ball joints, a wheel bearing. But it holds our family and stuff, goes anywhere, and is reliable. Nothing else on the market like it!
Now with that said, The AWD Aero is one of the most reliable AWD vans/trucks out there. Yes it has its little quirks like Bozz and Bear River have mentioned. I would also recomend a complete test drive, with an inspection from a mechanic that you trust (plus physically looking at the underside for leaks/damage) Check fluids, make sure everything works, lights heater/a/c, windows, doors and make an offer based on what you find, or move on. These are not rare beasts, so there is always a better one out there.
I can't believe I am recomending one, because my AWD needs headgaskets, front dif seals, endlinks, ball joints, a wheel bearing. But it holds our family and stuff, goes anywhere, and is reliable. Nothing else on the market like it!
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#8
No problems with the AWD except for possibly failing speed sensors that's causing the transfer case to lock up when it should not. I am driving with the AWD computer disconnected as well.
My biggest problems have been with the engine. It has developed leaks from just about everywehre, except the head gaskets. So look carefully under the van, especially around the oil pan to check for oil or coolant leaks. Be wary of these parts looking too clean, as it can mean that they recently cleaned up the leaks for sale, but never fixed them.
My biggest problems have been with the engine. It has developed leaks from just about everywehre, except the head gaskets. So look carefully under the van, especially around the oil pan to check for oil or coolant leaks. Be wary of these parts looking too clean, as it can mean that they recently cleaned up the leaks for sale, but never fixed them.
#9
Concerning leaks, changing from Dino oil to synthetic can cause leaks can't it? I had an '89 SHO and switched the tranny oil from Dino to synthetic and it leaked, also would grind in third gear. switched back and leaks were gone and shifted normal.
Sorry Vegas Van, I didn't mean to hijack your post.
Beaned
Sorry Vegas Van, I didn't mean to hijack your post.
Beaned
#10
Originally Posted by Beaned
Concerning leaks, changing from Dino oil to synthetic can cause leaks can't it? I had an '89 SHO and switched the tranny oil from Dino to synthetic and it leaked, also would grind in third gear. switched back and leaks were gone and shifted normal.
Sorry Vegas Van, I didn't mean to hijack your post.
Beaned
Sorry Vegas Van, I didn't mean to hijack your post.
Beaned
ATF is usually a synthetic oil. It sounds like the issue you had was that you did not add a friction modifier to the fluid. As for Syn leaking, the reason syn leaks is because your seals are shot, not because of the oil. If you start using Syn from day 1, you seals will last longer because about 30% of dino oil is perservatives and stabilizers, where syn in 99% oil.
#11
I guess it's possible for some synthetic oils to be more slippery than regular oils, which may cause the synchronizers to slip more. I think you can fix that buy adding friction modifiers.
Some synthetics have more detergent than regular oil, which can clean away crud that may have been filling the leaks in your oil seals, and the synthetic being thinner may seep through smaller leaks. But I think if that's happening, you should be addressing those leaks.
In my case, I don't think my engine has ever used synthetic oils before. But the leaks were there from the gaskets hardening with heat and age.
I started using synthetic ATF a couple years ago in the transmission, the transfer case, and the front axle. No leaks yet from the original seals.
Some synthetics have more detergent than regular oil, which can clean away crud that may have been filling the leaks in your oil seals, and the synthetic being thinner may seep through smaller leaks. But I think if that's happening, you should be addressing those leaks.
In my case, I don't think my engine has ever used synthetic oils before. But the leaks were there from the gaskets hardening with heat and age.
I started using synthetic ATF a couple years ago in the transmission, the transfer case, and the front axle. No leaks yet from the original seals.
#12
regarding the all wheel drive aerostar...
Ive had one a few months & it is nice.
the main surprise for me was the lowered gas mileage compared to a 3.0l aero. the awd is nice. it pulls away from lights better due to better traction & better power. I've just returned to iowa snow country so I'll see how it does here. I'm happy i replaced my aging 3.0l with this awd.
I've heard the 4.0l engines may need a little bit more attention than the near flawless 3.0l.
If you liked your shorty you would love a good awd.
the main surprise for me was the lowered gas mileage compared to a 3.0l aero. the awd is nice. it pulls away from lights better due to better traction & better power. I've just returned to iowa snow country so I'll see how it does here. I'm happy i replaced my aging 3.0l with this awd.
I've heard the 4.0l engines may need a little bit more attention than the near flawless 3.0l.
If you liked your shorty you would love a good awd.
#13
Lower gas milage?
Originally Posted by TheHandyman
Ive had one a few months & it is nice.
the main surprise for me was the lowered gas mileage compared to a 3.0l aero. the awd is nice. it pulls away from lights better due to better traction & better power. I've just returned to iowa snow country so I'll see how it does here. I'm happy i replaced my aging 3.0l with this awd.
I've heard the 4.0l engines may need a little bit more attention than the near flawless 3.0l.
If you liked your shorty you would love a good awd.
the main surprise for me was the lowered gas mileage compared to a 3.0l aero. the awd is nice. it pulls away from lights better due to better traction & better power. I've just returned to iowa snow country so I'll see how it does here. I'm happy i replaced my aging 3.0l with this awd.
I've heard the 4.0l engines may need a little bit more attention than the near flawless 3.0l.
If you liked your shorty you would love a good awd.
how much lower is your mpg ?
I realy do not need a AWD, but need a LONG BED. This is just the best long bed I I have found.
#14
I bought an extended length AWD 1995 Aerostar brand new. My tranny lasted until 187K+ miles before it died. One hub and both front axle shafts and the balljoints had to be replaced, but, I consider that normal wear because it all happened after 100k. One shaft was because of a ripped boot, which nuked the hub.
Plus, it was almost all in severe New England weather, I took it literally off road once a month on average through fields and such, plus the roads in Massachusetts were the pits.
It was the best all around trouble free vehicle I ever bought and we worked it hard. Many weekends it was full of people being ferried back and forth to church.
I think the key is complete fluid changes every 20K or every year (besides the LOF) and changing the battery every 2-3 years. It is side lined with the bad tranny, but, it still has the OEM alt and starter.
Plus, it was almost all in severe New England weather, I took it literally off road once a month on average through fields and such, plus the roads in Massachusetts were the pits.
It was the best all around trouble free vehicle I ever bought and we worked it hard. Many weekends it was full of people being ferried back and forth to church.
I think the key is complete fluid changes every 20K or every year (besides the LOF) and changing the battery every 2-3 years. It is side lined with the bad tranny, but, it still has the OEM alt and starter.
#15
Another completely satisfied extended/AWD owner here. The mileage penalty is more than offset by the virtues of the AWD system - especially this time of year. That "cargo box" interior will hold just about any household furnishing including an overstuffed 8 foot sofa - with the hatch closed! We're pushing 268,000 miles on the way to 300,000 at which point the old girl will be retired or passed on to the next generation as an heirloom.
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