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I have a 90 model F-150 with the fuel injected 300. In the last couple of weeks, I started having problems getting the oil pressure to come up on cold starts. It always comes up, but it takes about 5-10 seconds after I start the engine. It used to come up almost immediatly, now I can hear it starving for oil and it makes lots of raquet just before it gets oil. I know this is just tearing the motor up every time I start it. If it runs a while, then I shut it off and start it again within a reasonable time, it will be fine. It seems to me, that after it sits long enough, it loses its prime on the oil, and the pump has to start over and push oil through the whole thing again. Is there a check valve or a backflow preventer of some kind in the engine that can be changed, or do I need to replace the whole pump? Thanks for the help.
I have the same truck & engine . I had the same trouble ...Heres what I did > Check that the oil pressure is 40 to 60 Psi @ 2000 Rpm's . There is a revised oil filter insert , Ford Part Number E4TZ 6890 A that has a check ball that prevents oil from draining from the oil filter . I have always used FL1A filters but they still drain back enough to cause the noise when starting . Check the wire is clean & secure that connects to the sending unit . The revised oil filter insert cures the problem , but its price is ridiculous . Ill let you price it before you decide .
Mine started the start knocking noise almost from the day I owned it . Go ahead & verify you have the oil pressures I posted above before you do anything else . How many miles on your engine ?
I have had three 300 I6 Fords and a 240 I6. All my Ford 6's have that initial lifter rattle when using a Pennsylvania Crude based oil like Pennzoil or Quaker State. Both of which are real popular at the quick lube places. I used to use Motorcraft till they reformulated it and now it acts like a PA Crude. I have used Havoline and currently use Castrol. Neither of which give me that really bad rattle. It's probably not the region where the oil comes from as much as an additive if the truth was known. Quaker State also screwed up several years ago in the middle of winter and shipped 80w labled as 10w40 or 10w30 in drums to many shops. Think you have bad rattle now, try 80w at 20 below zero.
While I didn't have a problem with startup oil pressure, when I had the oil pan replaced at 70,000 miles the mechanic found the pickup half clogged with sludge. Just something else to think about. Also, if your motor starts and just runs at idle the oil pressure will take longer to come up than if the motor starts and whips up to 1500 or so RPM for the first 5 or 10 seconds.