Installed new everything. Rods,mains,rings,camshaft and bushings, fixed the heads,new oil pump and pickup tube, front cover, oil pan,turbo,reseal oil cooler and pressure checked. I feel it was done right. We took are time sealing the oil pan and it has no leaks at all. Halluah! It ran for about 3 days and the low oil pressure warning light came on and started running sluggish. Got it back Ran a scanner on it and found low oil pressure code.Pulled the oil pressure sensor out installed manual gauge and cold psi is at idle is 45psi. At operating temp at idle 28psi. and with more rpm pressure drops to 22 psi. WTH! I have pulled the relief valve out of the filter manifold and checked it for debris and hung open it's okay. I even thought that maybe the pickup tube might be sucking air, so I overfilled the engine by 8 quarts and that didn't make a difference in oil pressure hot or cold. I pulled new oil pump off and put old pump back on for s&g's same thing. Don't know where to go from here except jerk it back out and rip it down again.
I do have Some questions. Service manager at a Interntional dealership said he has seen people put the oil pump gears in backward. And that they should have timing marks or line up dots. I have 3 oil pumps: the old one,the engine kit new one, and brand new mellings. None of them have any markings at all. I don't see how this can be possible. It's a positive output pump. The faster it spins the more it puts out.Anybody care to clarify this or is it just a international part thing?
Also in the melling box was a insert saying that the pump in the box has a 10 tooth gear as compared to the OEM 14 tooth gear but they are compatiable. Okay question? With the fewer teeth will the oil pressure be reduced but the volume increased?
High pressure oil reading are 450-475 psi at idle and 1200-1450 psi at 2200. Fuel psi is really good 75-83 psi.
Used a temp gun on manifolds and all cylinders are hitting good. Fire's right up with no delay. I am pretty sure I not losing HP pressure in the top. Come on guys. I need to get this truck out of my shop.

 

RTV sealant causes the oil to foam. Excessive RTV use, or using it in the wrong place (anywhere there is an o ring seal) may break off and get into the pick-up tube pre-screen. Change the oil or get an additive to counter act the foaming.

There is no timing marks on the oil pump gears. Not sure about the tooth count difference for volume and pressure.

 

i think lucas oil addiditive is a anti foaming agent for oil and it says to use on powerstoke engines but i doubt it will help your problem

 

Some reading here ...Scroll down to illustration 8

http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/949...iagnostics.pdf

Did you check the condition of the front cover while it was apart ?...

 

I understand the Rtv issue. We used rtv on the front cover to seal it to the block with the orings but it was not excessive at all. You don't have a choice but to lay it thick when sealing the oil pan. It's all rtv and will leak everywhere. The front cover is brand new. I already checked for frothing on the dipstick there was none.
Thanks for the download there was some good info in there. Finally explained the 14 tooth gear pump that you won't be getting aftermarket, there are all 10 tooths now.
Question: the short valve is a drain for the HPOP reservior correct? If it was held shut or open wouldn't take affect the amount of pressure in the reservior where the sensor is reading also?
Is there another place on the engine that main line oil pressure(not hp psi) can be monitored? Book shows a port on oil cooler but when I looked it wasn't there.
Thanks for all the help. Toolbox!

 

Should be on the rear header near the oil filter ...

 

Any other place? I don't feel I am losing main line oil pressure. Engine sounds good and throttle's up good.

 

here is a picture that will show where to check lube oil pressure. I have it listed as 1/4 inch pipe thread but its actually 1/8th

 

I found a oil port on the block on the driverside center of the oil cooler. I installed oil pressure gauge and took readings. At idle and cold oil pressure was 48 and went down to 32 with WOT. No change so I have drained the oil and will run a borescope up the drain plug hole and see if the pickup tube is full of RTV from installing the oil pan.
I also pulled the far right plug in the HPOP reservior and checked the oil level it was dead on the money where it should be. So that blows my short circuit hanging open theory. Damn it!
Stay tuned, Man this is getting old.

 

Check oil pressure at the HPOP reservoir. Lube oil pressure not HPOP pressure. Was the new front cover and associated new parts ordered according to engine serial number?

 

Yes to all the above. Looks like I'm pulling the engine back out.

 

I found the problem. The pickup tube was restricted with excess RTV. I was afraid it wouldn't seal and would have leaks. To say I used too much silicone is correct. So we are cleaning everything back up after inspecting the bottom end and give it another shot.

 

were you able to see that with your bore scope or did you pull the pan? either way hopefully before you pulled the engine! Can you drop the pan in the IH with engine still in the chassis? I am gonna spend some time pouring over the IH version of the PSD tomorrow. We have a clutch to do in a 4700 tomorrow. Too bad I am stuck in the office for this week and next!

 

Really couldn't see anything with the borescope. Pickup tube is really close to the bottom of the oil pan and too close to the oil plug hole to get under it and look up. My snapon borescope as a 90degree mirror attachment and it did allow me to look down the oil pan rails where I did see sections of rtv missing(ya know the portion that is squeezed out). Yes we pulled the pan. In Int. you have to remove the front engine crossmember. I pulled a rod and bearing and everything looks fine. So we'll clean it up and won't use so much rtv the second time. The pan was a bitch to get off. The rtv wouldn't let go. It was definetly sealed up. It sucks. I was really proud not to have any leaks at all, and I'll be damned it plugs the pickup tube.

I have pulled a few clutches in the 4700's. A good trans jack makes all the difference. Make sure the clutch you install has a quick adjuster in the pressure plate. If not it will make adjusting it really a pain in the butt.
Hey thanks for all yall's help. It hope to be resealing this pan 2mrow!

 

Glad you found it, to bad it caused all the extra work.
The bead should be 1/4" on the front and rear pan rails and 1/8" on the side
rails....lay it down the middle of the rails. Do not go around around each hole, just stay on the inside of them. Wait till it tacks-up before assembling the pan. Hope that made sense.