302 heads
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Junior User
Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Saskatoon, Sask
302 heads
well as i posted earlier i started the rand r of my head gaskets and guess what happend. 3 intake bolts broke flush with the heads (2 on the right head and 1 on the left). So this brings me to my question, will any set of 302 heads fit on my truck. a friend of mine has 3 sets in his shop.
91 F150 302 auto with overdrive
and please if someone knows please let me know asap.
also the intake bolts are they a dealer item only?
91 F150 302 auto with overdrive
and please if someone knows please let me know asap.
also the intake bolts are they a dealer item only?
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Belle Mead NJ
Yes any 302 head will fit, as long as it is the E7TE heads. I have a set of reman ones that I had on my truck for 100 miles that I wont be using. The intake bolts are just standard ones. Take 1 down 2 your hardware store and match it up. I got mine in SS.
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Junior User
Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Saskatoon, Sask
Originally Posted by 95F350XL
Yes any 302 head will fit, as long as it is the E7TE heads. I have a set of reman ones that I had on my truck for 100 miles that I wont be using. The intake bolts are just standard ones. Take 1 down 2 your hardware store and match it up. I got mine in SS.
what if the ones my friend has come off a car will that matter.
Last edited by Ervie; Dec 22, 2007 at 11:16 PM.
Posting Guru
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From: Belle Mead NJ
E7TE is the casting number. How the head is shaped and valve size. All E7TE heads are the same. The only difference is the 5.0 heads use a 7/16 head bolt, and the 351w heads use a 1/2 bolt. The heads I had on my 95 351w were from a 91 Mustang 5.0. I just machined the head bolt holes to accept the 1/2 vs the 7/16.
Elder User
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 754
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From: Solon, Ohio
Take a flat punch about 3/8's round and firmly tap the broken off bolts back into the head a little, and add plenty of PB Blaster. That should loosen them up some before using a reverse drill on them. They should come right out.
If you would have rapped on the top of them with a 3/8's socket extension or something before trying to wrench them, they probably wouldn't have broken off in the first place.
If you would have rapped on the top of them with a 3/8's socket extension or something before trying to wrench them, they probably wouldn't have broken off in the first place.
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Junior User
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From: Saskatoon, Sask
what is pb blaster ive never heard of it. as for the reverse drill bit what size and could i get it at canadian tire
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Elder User
Joined: May 2007
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From: Solon, Ohio
PB Blaster is the best or a least one of the best penetrating oils. It contains a small amount of acid which eats away ay corrosion.
It is manufactured in Cleveland, Ohio and very popular in the states.
Drill size should probably be about 1/4 inch.
I don't have access to Canadian Tire.
It is manufactured in Cleveland, Ohio and very popular in the states.
Drill size should probably be about 1/4 inch.
I don't have access to Canadian Tire.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,757
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From: Florida
wow...first off, your chances of getting the broken bolt out of the coolant passage is going to be slim as hell...I had to take my heads to a machine shop when the same thing happened(even after I bought the GT40's) E7TE heads from any car or truck will work...Like 95 F-350 said though...if they are from a 351W the bore size through the heads will be bigger.......The E7TE is the casting numberof the heads and is stamped on the side facing the engine block.PB Blaster is great stuff...but it didn't work on my heads...I dare you to ask me if I'm being a sarcastic.....You could get the bolts from the hardware store....if you do make sure they are a high grade bolt otherwise they'll stretch under torque........I splurged and bought some ARP intake bolts.....somethin like 20 bucks for the set....nicebolts too.........Good Luck
JR
JR
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Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Saskatoon, Sask
Ya your absolutly right, ithey were so coroted i spent 2 hrs and never even got one.
so i have a few questions, since i have to have this done asap.
i got a rebuilt set of E7TE heads they have been sitting for quite awhile, i was told to expect the truck to use a little more oil do to a higher compression.
Is there any other worries i should watch out for.
Tomorrow afternoon im going to start reassembiling the truck and am a little un sure of this electric timing.
Ok make sure the #1 piston is up and the 2 valves are closed, drop in the distributor and make sure its pointing to #1. Now someone put a white line on the balancer i cant recall forsure but i think it was at 0, then start it up then when i plug in the 1 wire connector it will do the advancing atomatic. Lol am i close or out to lunch here
so i have a few questions, since i have to have this done asap.
i got a rebuilt set of E7TE heads they have been sitting for quite awhile, i was told to expect the truck to use a little more oil do to a higher compression.
Is there any other worries i should watch out for.
Tomorrow afternoon im going to start reassembiling the truck and am a little un sure of this electric timing.
Ok make sure the #1 piston is up and the 2 valves are closed, drop in the distributor and make sure its pointing to #1. Now someone put a white line on the balancer i cant recall forsure but i think it was at 0, then start it up then when i plug in the 1 wire connector it will do the advancing atomatic. Lol am i close or out to lunch here
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From: Belle Mead NJ
Just clean all the gasket surfaces real well. Make sure to use good gaskets. If your intake/ head gasket set came with cork end seals dont use them. Run a 1/4 bead of black RTV instead. If you did get the rubber end seals just put the rtv in the 4 corners where they meet the intake gasket. I dont see you using more oil if ur compression has been raised. If the guy with the heads told you that then you need to change the valve guide seals.
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Junior User
Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Saskatoon, Sask
Originally Posted by 95F350XL
Just clean all the gasket surfaces real well. Make sure to use good gaskets. If your intake/ head gasket set came with cork end seals dont use them. Run a 1/4 bead of black RTV instead. If you did get the rubber end seals just put the rtv in the 4 corners where they meet the intake gasket. I dont see you using more oil if ur compression has been raised. If the guy with the heads told you that then you need to change the valve guide seals.
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Belle Mead NJ
Ur 1/2 right. OK make sure that number 1 is a tdc, you can look on ur balancer. to see. Then after you get heads and such on, put the dist in so it is pointing to number 1. Now on the drivers side fender the ignition mod will be there. You will see a SPOUT connector. Pull that. After that when you run your truck there will be no advance timing. Set ur timing gun for 10* and get that white mark to line up with the pointer. Then tighten the bolt down 2 hold the dist still. Then once you have it tight recheck your timing. Once that is good, plug the spout back in and that will set you timing advance.