When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
This is my first post. I have (really my son's he away at Navy boot camp)an F250 with 117k miles, I was wondering if I should use 20w50, I've always used 10w40 in my cars and vans. Pro's and Con's if any. It also makes a tapping noise, I read another post about taken off the valve cover and tighting the valves, I'll try that also. It does not make the tapping at idle or revving at idle, only in normal driving in gear.
Generally, you will want to stick with a lighter weight oil. 10w30 tends to be a good all around grade, 10w40 will work if it doesnt get to cold in your neck of the woods. The thinner the oil, the better lubricated your motor will be, and the easier it will be for the oil to flow through the motor. But the oil shouldnt get too thin or you loose its lubricating properties that way as well. With 117k miles, the oil gallies in your motor may be getting gunked up, causing less oil to be lubing your lifters. This is one possibility for your ticking noise. Also, they could possibly be loose, too, but that may not be the only possibility.
I understand that Ford is now recommending 5w30 on all their vehicles, even older ones. Can anybody comfirm this? Also, a quart of Rislone added to the oil may help free things up.
My '77 300 I6 ran Rislone every oil change from brand new until I sold it at 115,000 miles. My '84 300 I6 ran Rislone every change from brand new until I sold it at 175,000 miles. and my '95 300 I6 has been running Rislone since I bought it used at 58,000 miles. Does it work? Who knows. It apparently didn't hurt my trucks as they all ran great. Is is superfluous given the additives in today's oils? Perhaps.
Hello Tom H. See your in VA Beach. Im up at Ft Eustis. Small world huh?! I use 10-40 oil but have been wondering about the 5-30, 5-40 types also. I thought the higher the number the thinner the oil. Or is it the other way around? My truck has 1500K on it so I might switch to the synthetic oil. My truck dosen't burn or leak any oil, it's been taken care of thru the years. Later. Greg.
1985 F-150, Black with black fiberglass cap. 300 6. Aluminum mag wheels, BF goodrich tires.
[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 17-Dec-00 AT 08:20 AM (EST)[/font][p]Hello,
I am new to this board and also new to owning a truck. My F150 has 115K on the odometer and I put Mobile 1 synthetic 10w30 in right after I bought the truck. 10 minutes and 4 miles later I drained it out and installed Valvoline Max life 10w40. Don't get me wrong, I use Mobile 1 in all my other vehicles (93 Mustang GT, 98 Taurus w/24 valve DOHC 3.0L) and love it. The synthetic made the old 300 tick extremely loud. Put the 10w40 in and it quieted down in less than 30 seconds. I will continue to use Mobile 1 in my other vehicles and if I ever overhaul the 300, I will put it in synthetic.
I'm with ya, Scott...I want to use synthetic oil, but not 'til after rebuild time. I've heard too many horror/leak stories about changing from hydrocarbon oils to synths. How true they are? Who knows...I run synth everywhere else in the truck but the 300 engine. The changeover to synth's been a gradual changeover as the various seals and gaskets were renewed as the assemblies they were a part of wore out and were overhauled or replaced.
I will say I've switched from straight 30 to 5W30 (various brands at various times, depending on who I liked at purchase time).
My reasoning for 5W30 is, "If it's recommended by the manufacturers of these complicated hi-RPM multivalve multicam engines that have all kinds of things flailing around inside and run real hot and have to have top end lube NOW, then it's good enough for my simple low-rev tractor motor.
The thinner multigrade made a helluva difference at startup time.
Engine has around 186K and sees that worst kind of driving, stop and go short distance city driving.
I wouldn't do 20W-50. That viscous an oil has a negative impact on revability, i.e., performance and economy.
Eddie
Eddie,
I have to agree with you on the 5w30, if Ford says it's ok, then they must know what they are talking about. Last spring I changed the oil in the Mustang (after being stored all winter) and I put Mobile 1 15w50 (better engine protection I thought) and I changed the Taurus to 10w30 (same reason). Performance and fuel economy on both went in the tank. Next change we were back to 10w30 in the 5.0L and 5w30 in the Taurus.
I started using 5w30 in the winter back in the 1980s for help on cold starts. But I also use Rislone, which I understand also helps cold starts. Speaking of cold starts, it was about zero degrees (F) this am in Detroit.
Just because Ford says something doesn't make it gospel. Just look at the Firestone tire situation where Ford recommended a lower PSI than the manufacturer. I am not saying that was the cause....just an example. Anyway, the reasons Ford and all the other manufacturers are going to lighter weight oils
are:
1 Oil refining and additives have made advances over the years.
2 Tighter manufacturing tolerances that allow use of the lighter oils.
3 Lighter oils do reduce friction thereby increasing MPG somewhat and raising their CAFE (Corporate Average Fuel Economy)and pleasing the government.
I even read back in the late 80's of one manufacturer that resorted to dropping their oil pressure just to get a tiny bit more MPG!!!
I am going to stick with my tried and true 10W-40. I am beginning to dabble with the synthetics tho. It is hard to teach an old dog new tricks I suppose.
DannyP
89 F-150 4x4 former EFI I-6 now carbed 351W, Edelbrock heads,cam,intake,carb.
MSD 6A, ZF, Sterling 10.25 with 3.55L's.
When it comes to oil there seems to be alot of different opinions that work for the various climate conditions and internal engine conditions.
At 190,000 plus miles without a rebuild, i feel that what i have done works. But not everyone will agree.
From the factory until around 100,000 miles i used 10W30 in the winter and 10W40 during the summer. After the 150 grand mark i noticed a decrease in oil pressure. It's only normal wear and tear. At this point i started using 5 quarts 10W40 and 1 qt risoline for winter months and 5 qts 20W50 and 1 qt risoline for the summer months. Oil pressure made a slight come back with the 20W50. Oil is changed every 3,000 miles and i feel grateful for being able to drive my 4.9 during all kinds of michigan weather for the last 20 years.
I get some top end ticking at idle every now and then and the oil pressure is on the low end, but she doesn't burn any oil or leak any. Based on my miles per month i should bust the 200,000 mark around August 2001. Mine was "BUILT FORD TOUGH".
1981 F-150 2WD STYLESIDE P/U
4.9L 1 BBL CARB
C6 AUTO
2.73:1 LIMITED SLIP REAR AXLE
STABILIZER BARS FRONT & REAR
6100 LB GVWR PACKAGE
ORIGINAL OWNER
190,000 PLUS MILES
100% STOCK & UNREBUILT
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.