Just starting
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Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2007
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Just starting
My father had a 1970 F-100 Ranger that I am going to bring to my house and start working on. I have never rebuilt a vehicle and need some tips on getting started. ANY help will be appreciated!!! It has a 302 (which I will have to rebuild), "3 on the tree" (which I want to keep, and is a two wheel drive LWB. Please give me some tipson how to get started.
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,155
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From: sunny fla sometimes windy
How rusty is the frame? How are all the rubber pieces? How rusty is the floor, body?
If you have the room I would pull the body and bed off and stop the frame rust and
paint it. IF that is too much just pull the motor out paint the frame rails and the underhood area, rebuild the motor and drop it back in. Then you can always paint the
frame and under body later on to keep it rust free.
If you have the room I would pull the body and bed off and stop the frame rust and
paint it. IF that is too much just pull the motor out paint the frame rails and the underhood area, rebuild the motor and drop it back in. Then you can always paint the
frame and under body later on to keep it rust free.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 7,147
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Hopefully your starting with a good body, a rusty body makes a restore 100 x more difficult. If you do need to replace some rusted body parts, you noticed I said replace. I feel it's better to replace body parts than bondo them up. There's alot of sources for southern and western rust free body parts. You can get dash pad and door panels from jc whitney and some other resto parts. Check our sponsor list here, we may have some ford truck resto sites right here.Make a list of missing items, like radio *****, tail light lense, trim pieces and emblems, things like that. Then take your list and start scouring the boneyards in the area, boneyard searches can be a lot of fun. Also keep your eye on the local paper, a lot of times you will see vehicles offered, "all or parts". As you take it apart, keep bolts and misc in markes containers so it's easier to put back together. Good luck on your project.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 13,873
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From: Atlanta GA
The truck is pretty basic to repair, but, I found the Iron Systems CD I bought from motorhaven well worth the $50.00 when fixing the electrical and removing the pushrod/rocker/pedestal (390).
Put anti-seize on any bolt or screw that goes back on the truck.
Put anti-seize on any bolt or screw that goes back on the truck.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 29,941
Likes: 46
From: Drummonds, TN USA
The bed can be removed by pulling or grinding off eight bolts. Tank lines and filler might be trouble, but once the bed is loose it can be supported on blocks to get at everything under it and check things out.
I stood an F-100 bed on end behind the truck one year to clean the bottom of the bed and frame with a pressure washer. It looked pretty good, so I just shot paint all over it (brushed a lot of the paint on the frame itself) and put it all back together when it was dry.
I installed a 3 inch body lift at the same time.
The fuel tank I took out completely to clean and paint it as well. MANY fuel and brake lines were looked at and some replaced. Most of the wiring was re-done to the rear.
TIME?
One week, and it was cheap.
I stood an F-100 bed on end behind the truck one year to clean the bottom of the bed and frame with a pressure washer. It looked pretty good, so I just shot paint all over it (brushed a lot of the paint on the frame itself) and put it all back together when it was dry.
I installed a 3 inch body lift at the same time.
The fuel tank I took out completely to clean and paint it as well. MANY fuel and brake lines were looked at and some replaced. Most of the wiring was re-done to the rear.
TIME?
One week, and it was cheap.
Last edited by Greywolf; Dec 21, 2007 at 06:58 PM.
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Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2007
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Thanks
I am going this weekend to pick the truck up. I will let everyone know what's going on. It has been quite a while since I've even seen the truck. Thanks for everything, and I'm sure I will have several other questions, but for now, the main one I have is about the rebuild kit for the 302. The one I am looking at has a flat tappett cam shaft. Will this have to be heat treated once the engine is started the first time? If so, how hard will this be?
