Well, the truck was running good. The only things left to fix, that I know of, was the power door locks and the latch on the center console. I pulled all of the posts on the power door locks and plan to fix it this weekend. On the other hand, I can not seem to find a way to remove the latch on the center console, maybe I have to replace the whole top door? So I was about to order the parts for a coolant bypass filter for my first mod, and Mr. Murphy interfered.



Typically I don't put on the miles like I have been since I bought the truck ( 3 months, 8000 miles ), but I am in the process of a job transfer and running 'home' on the weekends ( 400 miles ). Well, on the way out, the truck did not sound right ( no whoosh ). I got 10 MPG. I was also blowing black smoke if I stomped on it.



Investigation yielded the following: A little oil in the valley ( if I have my terminology correct ) that might be blowby, all my valley boots ( 2 ) are black ( I had scrubbed them clean ), no soot on the exhaust pipes to the turbo, clean turbo wheel, but with nicks on edge of fins ( first time I looked at it though ).



Plan of attack: Ordered AIS filter to keep the turbo from getting further dinged up. Will scrub out the valley and the boots and tighten them. This is about what I can do till I get home this weekend.



My new plan for this weekend is to build a leak detector. If I understand the process right, I need to get a plumbing fitting to fit over the turbo inlet ( a rubber cast iron pipe adaptor, and adapt an air fitting to the other end. I then have to remove the CCV so I do not pressurize the block. I then set the compressor to 15 to 20 psi and pressurize the turbo. I then look, listen, and feel for leaks. Correct?



Any other thoughts?



Thank's, Fred ( jyblood@nwi.net )

 

you have it.... I built mine to hook where the CCV adapter is.mine is standing up in the valley for the picture only... its made with 3" PVC coupling. a plug for one end,drilled and taped for a regulator..I scuffed the other end with sand paper so when I clamp it, it wont pop off..I build the system with 25 lb of air...the air will leak past the internals of the motor..so a continues flow of air is needed..if you can hear air hissing like a tire going flat..you have a leak..the internal leak inside the motor will sound very different.. good luck.

 

upper boot in the valley, passenger side, was split. so, how hard are these to replace ( in a hotel until Sat with limited tools )?

Also, are the upgraded boots from diesel site worth it?

Thx's, Fred ( jyblood@nwi.net )

 

its not hard at all to change..just clean the oil out of the pipes first.. you need to remove the spider to do the 2 boots down in the valley..i have the diesel site boots and there worth every bit... when you put on new boots..spray the end of the pipes with hair spray..it will make the boots slide better and when it dry's it becomes sticky...