Ok so i was raised a chevy man and ill probubly die one too but due to my recent purchuse of a "Slick 60's" 65 F100 i will Never EVER talk down on a ford again this truck has been the coolest vehicle ive ever drove. And ive drove alot lol from Pontiacs to Peterbuilts in the last 6 years ive owned a 93 Bonnivile a 87 and a 89 Jeep Cherokee a 87 Toyota 4Runner (heavly modified) 2 Harleys (Trucks not even close to those but they dont count lol) a Buik Regal a 2000 Chevy Camar Z28 and a 91 Toyota Mini Truck (also heavly modified) and the F100 lays em (almost) all to rest lol I love it so much i moved 60 miles away from my girl just so i can drive to see her lmao well mostly for school but the drives nice so So far its a 65 F100 with a 352 and 3 on the tree 350:1 Rear end gears with Passenger car tires its Lime(ish) green its a Coustom Cab very limited cancer just the usual spots obove the driver and passenger doors. and the surface rust in the bed and the hood n roof of the cab. the car is a 2 barrel off of a 70's(?) Datsun (Modified n instaled by the previous owner) with an auto choke works great with good power n surprisingly decent fuel milage (10 around town and about 14 on the highway. i can make it from Hayward to Modesto (about 80 miles) on like 5 gallons of gas so im thinkin about 13 or 14 or so witch is nice for the power n age of the truck. So i have a few questions for all you old school blue circle guys out there. What would be the best bet cut out the cancer n weld in some sheet metal or cut off the whole roof n try n find one with clean panels? Also i have a wierd banging noise form time to time n i cant for the life of me figure out what it is. at first i thought maybe its back fireing but it dosnt seem to be one it does only make the noise when its in gear and i let off the gas but its a WAY loud bang so i duno its also comein from close to the cab almost in front of it (But i know that could be cause of an exaust leak) So hit me up if ya wana chat about my recently joining the dark (and so far fun) side of the Force lol

 

Welcome to our little hang out! Your fuel economy is what I get in my 300, not too shabby. Mike & Dan are better at sheetmetal than I am.

 

Hi, welcome to the general nuttiness...but I think you've got it backwards, you haven't joined the dark side, you've come over into the light...

You might want to hit up our chapter leader about becoming a member of the chapter. Lots of active members down your way.

My bro-in-law has a Slick with a bad roof and was facing a similar dilemma. He scored a parts truck and cut the roof off but never got around to replacing it and then got hit by the county Code Enforcement and had to do a massive cleanup on his property, the roof got thown out in the all the confusion so he's back to square one. In your case, some pics of the rust might help us to help you decide the best course of action.

Hard to diagnose the banging you describe without actually hearing it...might be excess fuel building up when you let off the gas and then lighting off all at once. I'd wager a guess that getting rid of the Datsun carb would solve the problem. That's a rather bizzare modification... And that kind of mileage isn't really out of line for one of these trucks set up the way yours is, so I wouldn't give the Datsun carb too much credit. There are other options...

 

Thanks for the tip on the carb. when i get the fundage ill check into one. My dad was sayin theres a fuel injection kit for that truck is it worth it? Or should i just go with a 4 Barrel like a Holly or somthin?

Heres some pics of the cancer its only above the doors in that little gutter deal and on the driver side one small spot on the corner the rest is surface rust.
Driver Side Cancer




Pasenger Side Cancer





And The The Truck Itself


Thats it thanks for lookin guys

 

I was actually thinking of the Holley EFI. They are reasonably priced, and pretty reliable. Much easier than fine tuning a new carb.

 

That's goimg to take some time and effort to fix correctly (the drip rail rust), I had to do the same thing on my Dodge, but I only had to deal with one peice opf metal, pretty sure you have an inside piece to deal with as well.

Toughest part is once you get it down to something shiny, the material will be so thin, it's tough to weld to...there's a few ways to go with it though.

 

Do you have any sugestions Mike? A friend of mine said i can shave the drip rails and tig weld a piece of sheet metal behind the rust and then fiberglass it. but if i do it id rather do it right. i dont mind shavin the drip rail it would probubly look better anyways but there is a overlayed piece of steel on the inside of the cab so i duno id probubly have to cut that out to.

 

Hey Carpe Noctem.. Welcome to our area. I sent you private message a little bit ago with directions on how to join our chapter. I look forward to hearing more about your project. I am also dealing with a little rust on my truck.

Congrats on getting a Ford. You came over to the good side now.
Karl

 

Yeah it was alot of help there should be a request comin your way now n im gona have alot of fun with this truck i love how it actualy rides Like a TRUCK lmao i miss that my dads truck feels like a BMW n it kills me lol i like the bouncin around when ya hit a bump lol plus the power is just through the roof lol heres my dad with his LT1 powered 89 Silverado crew cab long bed with a 16pouint fuel injection kit a 4" exaust kit 4:11 gears n a shift kit n my stock ford with a 352 3 on the tree n 3:50 gears oh n dont forget the 2 barrel from the Datsun n i just blew him outa the water lol he was pissed to say the least i loved it

 

That is a hard repair - I would check the cab mount, the floorboards, and hinge pockets to see if there is rust there too. If there was, I would get a new cab.

People do shave the drip rails - but the cab is not as strong, some of the joints show, and you get rain water dripping on you. You are going to have to cut the metal back until you get sound metal, and weld patches in. It is worth doing but will not be done quickly. You can not get at the inside bottom edge of the patches, most areas.

As to the carb - why don't you ask around and see if someone has a two barrel setup they will let you have cheap? They are only worth about $20 - for both the carb and manifold. You will need to clean the intake and rebuild the carb - plus it is very easy to get a major oil leak so be careful.

One of our members down your way has the same set-up (352/3sp with highway gears) and had his weaned dow to where he was getting 18 on the highway - but I know him to be a very careful driver. The only 352 I owned gave me 14. . . .

 

thanks ***** im probubly just gona say F#%& it n buy a good Holly 4 Barrel with an auto choke (the carb on it now has an auto choke n the choke **** in the cab now opens the vents lol) n take the fuel mileage in the shorts as for the other areas of rust there isnt any i looked the only through n through rust is in the pics i showed u the rest is still just surface rust. but as far as a new cab do you know where i can pick one up? might just be cheaper in the long run than the time n man hours to patch the holes n ill end up with a good cab cause the interior of this one is kinda messed lol big hole in the dadsh where someone cut a hole out for a radio n a few other dill holes for misc. screws n stuff. it was a shop truck for almost its entire lifeso yeah. if you have any sugestionson where i can find a clean cab letme know thanks

 

No, but they are around. I am rebuilding a 59, and got most of what I needed off the crag's list - very cheap!

 

Like Clint says, not a quick fix and it depends how deep the rust got into the roof line below as well as into the inner panel.

The drip rail may have to come off for the repair, but if you're careful when taking it off you can reuse it.

The problem with just glassing it in is that unless all the rusted areas are completly sealed, they'll eventually bubble up again.

Do you see any signs of bubbles/rust on the inside of the cab up there?

 

all i can see is the iner steel i think theres a steel plate that goes along the insideof the cab its right over the rust theplate has some surface rust but it dosnt show through

 

I had similar rust through on my cab. I found rust on the inner steel as well and rain water had run down the A pillar and settled on the floorboards at the kick panel and eventually rust those through. I had the time and space to do A LOT of work to fix the problems (ex. find donor truck, cut the roof off and weld on, cut out floorboards weld in new sheet metal. And still have the prep work. A fun and learning experience, but if I was to do it again, I'd go with ***** B's suggestion and find a good cab.