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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

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Old Dec 17, 2007 | 06:45 PM
  #1  
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good deal

Been street rodding and hot rodding for a long time and have restored as well as street rodded several cars over the years. The Fords I have done have always ended up with Bow Tie Power so I am not up on Ford power and what fits what. Here is the deal. I found a good buy on a 66 F100 sitting in a garage and picked it up for a song. (his wife wanted the garage space) The truck is as straight as a good razor and not a speck of rust. The front sheet metal has been remove and a 302 somewhat bolted in, (sitting on the crossmember). Three speed was in the bed as well as an automatic and bell housing. New parts included new gunslinger wheels as well as tires, a new Lokar shifter for the auto, Dolphan gages and a new heater a/c unit from Southern Hotrod and new wireing harness all uninstalled. Since I got the truck home I have cleaned up some of the stuff by steam cleaning and have spray painted the interfenders and firewall along with the crossmenber and frame rails. I want to get the truck on the road as soon as I can but not rushing so here is my question. The man that had this truck said the 302 came out of a Mustang but he could not remember what the auto tranny came from and did not remember if the flywheel, converter and bell housing came from the same vehicle. Also there is no starter except for the one from the three speed. How do I match this stuff up? Can I just go to the parts store and pick up a starter for a 302 or do the flywheel and bellhousing make a diff. I want to get the engine and trans in the truck hooked up and started and then go from there. Can some one help. The interior in the truck is in good shape to but fuel tank and seat are not bolted in. So I have alot of work ahead of me.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2007 | 11:31 PM
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The name of the game here is numbers. If you can get the numbers off the parts and post them, there are a number of guys here who can tell you exactly what you have and what it matches.
A starter for a small block ford is a shelf item. Most any parts house will have one.
If your bellhousing bolt pattern matches the block than you are good to go though I'd buy a new torque converter.
 
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Old Dec 18, 2007 | 07:26 AM
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Originally Posted by shoundog
The man that had this truck said the 302 came out of a Mustang but he could not remember what the auto tranny came from and did not remember if the flywheel, converter and bell housing came from the same vehicle. Also there is no starter except for the one from the three speed. How do I match this stuff up? Can I just go to the parts store and pick up a starter for a 302 or do the flywheel and bellhousing make a diff. I want to get the engine and trans in the truck hooked up and started and then go from there.
Welcome to FTE

I hope you like numbers, because when it comes to Ford, numbers are everything.

Starters: There are two starters for 302's: One for an auto trans, and one for a manual trans. The same two starters were used from 1962 thru 1991, and prolly later. The 302 uses the same starters as the 221/260/289 engines use, and as John pointed out in the next post, the starters have 2 bolt holes.

Transmission ID: Look on the left side of the case above the manual control lever for a Ford ID tag. The tag will have a Ford trans code on it. Post what you find. The code, once decoded, will tell what the trans is (prolly a C4), what it came out of originally.

While John (next post) seems to like the AOD transmissions used from 1980 and later, I don't like them one damn bit. The AOD is tempermental as hell (stay OUT of overdrive in heavy stop & go traffic > > the constant searching between Drive and Overdrive fries the trans. Also install the world's largest external trans cooler). IMHO and based on 35 years behind Ford parts counters, the AOD is a turd, and very expensive to repair. STAY AWAY!

Engine: The seller sez it's a 302, but is that correct? It might be a 260 or 289, or even a 351W! Look for engine block & cylinder head casting numbers and casting number dates. That will help ID whether it's a 289 or a 302, (351W) and also tell the approx yr the engine is.

Flexplate: There's more than one for 302's (& 221/260 & 289's), and is it from these engines? It could be from anything. Some are marked with Ford ID numbers.

1964/65 (C4 introduced 1964) 260 engines flexplate has 160 teeth and is marked: C4OE-6375-B

1965/68 289 & 1968/74 302 engines flexplate has 157 teeth and some are marked: C8OP-6375-C or D

There's another version (a H/D used in some applications with MX Cruise-O-Matics) used 1968/72. This one has 164 teeth and isn't marked.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
1973/79 = I hate to tell you this, but there are three more flexplates, and these are different from the ones used in 1964/72. Two have 164 teeth, the third which fits 1975/78 Mustang II's with a 302 is not marked, nor has the number of teeth listed in the parts catalog. Of the remaining two flywheels, one was used in Mustangs, one wasn't.

 

Last edited by NumberDummy; Dec 18, 2007 at 07:57 AM.
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Old Dec 18, 2007 | 07:30 AM
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shoundog Welcome to FTE the nations online truckstop for ol Ford truck tech support.

One might guess that he has parts ready to bolt in. A starter for the 302 has 2 bolt holes.

I think with the price of gas where it is, I would be looking for an AOD to put behind the 302.

Does the engine have either a flexplate or flywheel on it now?

I would also suggest that before you get started, grab a 73-79 half ton for the power steering and disc brakes. That will make driving the 66 more fun.

John
 
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Old Dec 18, 2007 | 03:41 PM
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Thanks for the welcome and the info. With what you have told me I have a good place to start. I think I will enjoy this project more than anyone I have had in the past simpley because this truck is in such good condition. So stand by for more questions. Jowiler wish i had room for the donor truck but my HOA will not let me and righ now there is no room in the garage. If I find one can I park it at your place since you live in Creedmoor?
 
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Old Dec 18, 2007 | 06:25 PM
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Looked this engine over the best I could since it is now sitting on blocks in the floor all I can see is on the back of the block just behind the intake is a stamped number 04125. Also the engine has a nice set of cast finned valve covers that Says Powered By ford and has a sticker on it that has numbers on it DK333AD
 
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Old Dec 18, 2007 | 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by shoundog
Jowilker wish i had room for the donor truck but my HOA will not let me and righ now there is no room in the garage. If I find one can I park it at your place since you live in Creedmoor?
Where do you hang your hat? Maybe something can be worked out if we put our heads together.

John
 
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Old Dec 18, 2007 | 08:20 PM
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I am north of Charlotte in Huntersville, near lake Norman
 
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Old Dec 19, 2007 | 12:08 PM
  #9  
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You don't have your email turned on and I don't PM. There is a group of guys near you that would help out.

You want to try emailing me?


John
 
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Old Dec 19, 2007 | 01:05 PM
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Shoundog;
Just to add my $.02 worth; to help determine your engine year and other parts look on the lower left side while facing the fan by your starter area just above it under the exhuast you should fine a number block stamp; this will also help you determine the year & make; also check the trans pan on you auto and determine if it has 11 bolts or 17 bolts holding it on. 11 bolts = C4 17 bolts = C6.
Most of ford parts are control by the first two digit's on a number to determine example C6TFExxx.
The C = 1900's ; the 6 = 1966. A's are for 1940's B's are for 1950's, C's for 1960's then the next digit is for the ten year window as I mention in my example above.
I know this doesn't ID you type of engine but it will help you get a era on your parts as well.
Again Welcome and have fun....

Mitch
 
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Old Dec 20, 2007 | 03:56 PM
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John sounds good. Forum says I cant e-mail from here for 15ays or 50 post. My e-mail address is nsdws@aim.com
 
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