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rebuilding 400m ????????

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Old Dec 28, 2007 | 08:26 AM
  #31  
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From: ontario canada
no matter what you do the bottom end fails, usually with rods hanging out, very weak rods, bad oiling system
Originally Posted by mustang81
what failed in a 400 that never rev up more than 5500 rpm ? what failed if rev more than 5500 ?
 
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Old Dec 28, 2007 | 12:22 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by 1EVILCREWCAB
no matter what you do the bottom end fails, usually with rods hanging out, very weak rods, bad oiling system
I woulld say you have been dealing with some half assed engine builders/operators if you have come to that conclusion. While I do agree the rods are a week link in a 400, no bottom end will survive if the basics aren't adhered to. A good straight line bore in the block, no nore than .0002 out of round or taper. Same goes for the rods with & a good set of ARP bolts. Bearing clearances set right with a bore gage. Opinions vary on clearances but I like to see .002 -.0025 on a rod & .0025 -.003 on a main. Chamfer the oil holes & balance it. A hv pump & a rear sump pan. Restrictors are a good add on if it's going to be ran hard but I always drill them out a little bigger. Use the later model half grooved main bearings. I don't see any reason for the external oil line ran from front to back but some people feel as though it's a good idea & it certainaly can't hurt. If all of this is done you will have a good reliable 400 bottom end that won't be spitting rods out.
 

Last edited by mark a.; Dec 28, 2007 at 12:25 PM.
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Old Dec 28, 2007 | 03:42 PM
  #33  
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i'm looking to build a very solid 400. 4-barrel a must and i was thinking of a gear drive? they sound so good, any comments on them. they are known to be in chevy's. how are they in fords? gears will be done when the time comes. i owned all makes of vehicles and i think they are all junk. they all break. so buy one that looks good and build it.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2007 | 06:42 PM
  #34  
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again, i am the first to admit, and i am saying so on this particular design. i am a newcomerhere and i am a Nobody but i can and will say, VERY well SAID it is thetruth in my neck of the woods. as i see it IF anyone doesnt care for OUR block and collectively our efforts and our $ while OTHERS on this site are consistantly proving to the planet that this DESIGN CAN be made to RUN, makes,seriousaxle twistin torgue AND IS running and running STRONG well leave us alone. you are on the wrong the wrong forum. serious and legitamate advice is as always welcome . but this raggin biz. its old hat, go build whatever you want, but you are as i see it a not good, discouraging influence on newcomers who want to try, my YOUNG SON included. real sorry about YOUR mechanical failures. but this site is about again. this PARTICULAR DESIGN. our detractors have MADE there POINT. we get it. all you are really doing is burning up Tim Meyers valuable site space andwastin time for those who do care.
paul kiernan MD
2ought74ought-25ought6.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2007 | 06:08 PM
  #35  
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what the hell are u saying????????????????????????????????????????????
 
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Old Dec 29, 2007 | 06:23 PM
  #36  
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He's saying he is no expert on the 400, but to downplay the 400 on this forum is wrong.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2007 | 07:54 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by polky
i'm looking to build a very solid 400. 4-barrel a must and i was thinking of a gear drive? they sound so good, any comments on them. they are known to be in chevy's. how are they in fords? gears will be done when the time comes. i owned all makes of vehicles and i think they are all junk. they all break. so buy one that looks good and build it.
They sound just like a bad power steering pump.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2007 | 01:10 PM
  #38  
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I have thought about the gear drives at one time, but after hearing the sound, and horror stories of people having a hard time fitting them to their block, I think a good true roller is the way to go, by far.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2007 | 01:22 PM
  #39  
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From: ontario canada
gear drives are great!, I've run a few different setups and find the milodon setup to be the best, stay away from the cheap offshore junk, the pete jackson works ok but has far too much backlash between the gears, cam timing can move around 4* or more
Originally Posted by polky
i'm looking to build a very solid 400. 4-barrel a must and i was thinking of a gear drive? they sound so good, any comments on them. they are known to be in chevy's. how are they in fords? gears will be done when the time comes. i owned all makes of vehicles and i think they are all junk. they all break. so buy one that looks good and build it.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2007 | 01:48 PM
  #40  
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thank you HAVI, you nailed it, thats what i said and all i said. later paul k md
 
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Old Feb 17, 2008 | 11:02 PM
  #41  
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same here on the aussie heads. PM me for some q's.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2008 | 08:55 AM
  #42  
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okay, im with the same as yall are on the 400. Im new to this all but Ive been doing tons of research for this motor cause Im planning on building me a hoss of a lil ranger with this motor as the power for it. To me personally, the 400 seems even a better motor than the 460 if you are looking for torque, not horsepower. I remember looking somewhere and saw the torque specs for a 400 and 460 and the 400 is shoving out way more than the 460 is, both stock. IF you are looking fora horsepower motor for a pure flat out dragster, go the 460, but if looking for a lighter, more torque motor that has alot of potential, the 400 is your best bet. Lower rpm rates and higher torque, what could be better? True alot of horsepower is good but alot of torque is great also. The 400 is lighter than the 460 and can almost outdo the 460 in the horsepower range also if you build it right. Sure if you half *** it, you'll sling a rod, bust the block, whatever but thats possible with any engine. It all boils down to what you are wanting the motor for and if you are willing to take the time to build the motor correctly instead of hurrying and half assing it and then watching a piston go flying through your oil pan or hood of your car/truck.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2008 | 01:36 PM
  #43  
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From: Naples, FL
edelbrock performer intake, holley 650 carb, hooker long tube headers, msd coil, cap, rotor and dist, msd 6a ignition box, ford racing 9mm wires, good set of copper plugs, comp cams 268 grind cam set at 0 degrees, and a good set of flat top pistons would be a good start and breathe a ton of new fire under your **** with that. Thats just a little mild build but very reliable motor.
 
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