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Old Mar 21, 2001 | 01:39 AM
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I need immediate help......

I have my 262 I-6 block down at the machine shop and all of the bores have been measured. But, they don't have any data on what the original stock bore is suppose to be. All of the bores are al sorts of differences and vary within .010 , I want to get over size pistons, but how much over depends on the size it currently is suppose to be. BTW, I have found NOS .040 and .060 over pistons, but which depends on what I need. I need the "exact" bore diameter for a stock 262 out of a 1963 F-100. Thank you.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2001 | 08:07 PM
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is it a 232 or a262?
 
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Old Mar 22, 2001 | 09:30 AM
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Here is what it says in "Ford F100/F150 Pickups: Americas Best Selling Truck" (Robert Ackerson):

262 6 cylinder
Bore = 3.719"
Stroke = 4.03"

What a coincidence that I just got this book Tuesday. Says the 262 block is a one piece casting of special high grade steel with heavy cast ribs for extra strength, four main bearings, and cast aluminum pistons. This engine must be a heavy duty job because it initially in '61 was put only in C550 and c600 (c? wonder why it is not F for Ford?) trucks and later (I think 63 and 64) was offered in pickups. Of course it ended when the 300 I6 came out in 65. I think you made a good choice to rebuild rather than go with a different engine--please let us know how it turns out. The book also lists hp and torque (gross and net), valve diameter and lift, and (oddly) radiator capacity. Will provide if you want it.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2001 | 12:41 PM
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TallPaul, For the different series of Ford trucks: "C" = Tilt Cab, "F" = Conventional, "P" = parcel delivery, "B" = School Bus, and "T" = Tandem Axle. Hope this helps.
Kenny
 
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Old Apr 12, 2001 | 08:18 AM
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Old Apr 15, 2001 | 02:47 AM
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TallPaul, I am very interested in what the book says. I have gotten new pistons, block back from shop etc. I am having a problem finding a camshaft though. No one seems to make a reproduction, so I am going to have to have it reground by the machine shop. All I know is that it was a mechanical lifter type setup, but I have no clue what type of lift/duration etc. Would you mind providing this info? BTW, what type of book do you have? I love this engines design, it is awesome. It has a forged steel crank, forged rods with cap screws, the block like you said is a beast! The head is odd though, two valves actually share one port! This IMHO is the only down fall of the engines design. What kind of comp. ratio does it have? I know the 262 has pistons that slope on one side vrs. the 223 flat tops, but am unsure what the difference is between the CR of the two. Does the book state max. redline for the engine? The door tag says 132 NET HP, but what is the gross rating? I believe the engine also produced 240 ft. lbs. of torque?? I am unsure though, can you confirm? Any info you have on the engine would help out greatly, I am interested in all that you have on it. Thanks.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2001 | 06:25 AM
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This book is an enthusiast publication, not an engine building manual. It tells you minutia such as when Ford changed the weave in the seat material, etc. The other data they listed on the 262 included

Compression ratio: 8.0 to 1
Gross hp: 152 @ 4000
Net hp: 132 @ 3600
Gross torque: 237 @ 1800
Net torque: 224 @ 1300-1600
Intake valve diameter: 1.775 - 1.785
Intake valve lift: 0.369
Exhaust valve diameter: 1.505 - 1.515
Exhaust valve lift: 0.369
Radiator 13.5 qt.

I have no data on your other questions. I suggest you post your questions on the American Truck Historical Society discussion board: http://www.aths.org/ I expect you will find some answers, though it may take a few days or so. It wouldn't hurt to verify the above data from another source in case there is an error in the book. As for redline, you should be safe at least to the RPM of max hp and then some, but your engine builder ought (I would think) to be able to judge redline, which I suppose can be increased depending upon how well they build the engine. But I would build this engine for stump pulling, not high RPMs. It probably is best to build it to stock specs, though if any mods are to be made, more lift likely woudl be the best for low end torque. I certainly would be leary of increased duration with the siamezed ports as you could have one cylinder's blowdown backfilling another cylinder that would have just gotten scavenged--this, I believe, would kill low end power.

What year Ford truck you are going to install this engine in?

Paul



 
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Old Apr 16, 2001 | 02:11 PM
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It is going into a 1963 F-100 unibody. The truck has a 3spd manual trans. with 3.89 gears and factory 15 inch wheels. The engine had 173,000 miles on it(based on receipts and maintainance records). It was very fun to drive and felt it had plenty of power. I had gotten it to 85 MPH with ease on the highway before it spun the bearing. Unfortunately, the truck doesn't have a tach. Again, I really liked the engine. Thank you for all your help TallPaul.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2001 | 02:20 PM
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With 3.89 gears that truck ought to jump off the line. I suspect the bearing spun because of age (and likely long periods of inactivity) as much as miles. Unless you are going for a totally bone-stock look, I would get a tach. I like the one I bought at J.C. Whitney for my '95 300 I6:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/User_files/3a55d02e3ce54623.jpg

 
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