You are all about to witness one of my very rare serious moments.

I took off from Fargo this morning, temp was 10 below, driving to Valley City (60 miles) My 95 F150 ran fine up until mile 55. No oil pressure loss, no temperature change, but it started running a little rough, so I pulled over and then it died. Tried starting it up again and it will run for a few seconds, roughly and then backfire and die.

I had changed sparkplugs and wires, cap and rotor along with coil aprox 2 months ago and never had a problem till now.

I am heading up to Camp Grafton this weekend (military stuff) I dont know how much I will see the internet, but I really need some help here guys. I got it pulled the last couple miles into Valley City, (by a buddy in his Ford, of course) I will be back to work on it Sunday night.

Could it be something with the temp? its really freaking cold. Moisture in the lines that froze up? Pickup was plugged in all last night, and ran fine for 55 miles of interstate before it started acting up.

So, what are you waiting for?!?! Start throwing out some ideas!

Thanks, Josh

 

On a good running truck that suddenly quits in the frozen north there, you're right, I'd add Heet to gas tank to dry out moisture (frozen) in fuel lines that might be there. Since you can run it for a few seconds the Heet will eventually get to a blockage and thaw/absorb it...

Driving for 55 miles before it happened makes it a wierd diagnosis...maybe a fuel filter?

 

Thanks, Rex. I am trying to get it parked inside for this weekend, so it will have thawed out by the time I get back. Will report back, lets hear some more ideas.

 

Sorry to hear bout your probs' at a serious time josh.

Verify pumps run at KO. Pressure @ rail. Spark or pwr to coil. All the reg junk first...

The opinion from the 58 degree south is a frozen TB maybe?

Good luck.

D

 

If it's not a fuel freeze up issue, maybe PIP or ignition module.

 

Being that it backfired, makes me feel its ignition rather than a fuel problem.

 

Thanks for the ideas. I dont have access to a fuel pressure guage, so I dont know about that.

I filled up from empty with non-ethanol fuel, could that have contributed to a possible freeze up? It is supposed to warm up a bit by the time I get back, at least close to freezing, so if thats the issue, maybe I will be ok. Luckily, I have most of my tools with me if needed. and I should be able to push it into the armory where its warm and have a place to sleep if I cant get it running sunday night. Also, there are a few guard guys I know that have a shop in town if needed, but I prefer to do it myself.

I should have fairly regular access to the net this weekend, so share your thoughts, I should be able to check in every so often.

alz, whats a PIP, and by ignition module, do you mean the coil? coil is a two month old MSD coil. do they degrade in performance, or just die if they are bad?

The backfire could mean that it was indeed still getting gas, but not burning it. I am just tossing out ideas.

Thanks guys, Josh

 

Sorry to hear it Josh. I think you're going to need to start by running tests on the different components if you want to get anywher e with this, there really isn't enough information to deduce what the problem is. First step is to check for codes and check your fuel pressure at the rail (I don't care if you don't have a gauge, GET ONE!).

We're here for you brother, let us know what you find out.

 

Thanks Chris, that means a lot (even if you have a weirdo avatar ) I am a few hundred miles from it now. I will diagnose ignition stuff when I get back once i thaw it out (if it doesnt start)

 

The PIP is what lives in your distributor & tells the coil to fire.

Your ignition module is on the drivers side fender close to the corner of the firewall. It is mounted on a big chunk of finned aluminum,

A trouble light can tell if your coil is getting pwr on one side & should flash on the other side when turning over. (If pip & ign mod are working)

If your pumps run then quit when you turn the key on & you have pressure at the schrader valve (tire lookin valve on fuel rail) you probably have pressure, but needs to be checked with screw on gauge.

Just for starters.

 

Thanks, just making sure were talking about the same things. Its good to gather all this information togther so i can do the diagnostic equivalent of a full frontal assault when I get back.

One thing I remember from the past (77 f250) was a little black module on the passengers side fender (cant remember what it was called) that caused our ignition problems. Anybody know what that little black box is called?

Thanks guys

 

The voltage regulator (it's on my '78 passenger side fender too). A dead one would not let the truck start, but a dying one might... i'm superstitious and have an extra old one in the onboard toolbox.

But I don't thimk you'll have a stand-alone VR on your '95, it's taken care of by the ignition module/computer.

 

the voltage regulator is now internal in the alternator and the ignition module that was external on the late 70's to mid 80's trucks are now on the distributor !My guess is probably fuel as in filter clogged or iced but being as you had gone 50+ miles i'm not so sure check for proper fire also and as was said turn ignition on listen for pump and then go to fuel rail remove black cap and push in schrader valve {like on tire}and see if fuel comes out this is sort of a poor mans fuel pressure test! if no fuel and pump is cycling you could have a problem with the fuel pressure regulator !Just some thoughts from my lil brain

 

Josh,

I think I would replace the coil. My son has an 85 Mustang 5.0, and he had exactly the same problem with the MSD coil. It was on about 2 months and one day it just quit. After troubleshooting, we reinstalled the old coil and it fired right up. Coils are fairly cheap...it's worth a shot. Good Luck

Kevin

 

Sorry to hear of your misfortune, Josh. What about a sticky Idle Air Control valve? (I like to start with the free fixes)