It runs
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New User
Joined: Apr 2001
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It runs
Well I got my 78 F250 I-6 timing cover resealed. This job started out because I couldn't get the motor to time. I found out that it was leaking oil so I resealed the the front cover & at the same time when I cleaned up the harmonic balancer it was packed with oil & dirt I found out that it had 2 timing mark notches on the back edge. So when I got everything cleaned up & painted I aligned the timing marks on the gears & rolled the distributor in & fastened the cover on with 2 bolts & slid the harmonic ballancer on the crankshaft this showed me which mark lined up with TDC I slid the harmonic balancer back off & marked the timing mark. My timing decal on the valve cover is missing & they don't provide a timing degree chart in the repair manual just referred me to the valve cover sticker. I set the timing to 6 degrees BTDC. The truck seems to run ok. Does anyone know what the timing is supposed to be? I looked on this web site at all the engine compartment decals but couldn't find a valve cover decal. Does anyone know where I can purchase a timing/RPM decal?
I also have a vibration when the truck is setting with the brake on & the C6 transmission in gear. Does anyone have a any idea what could cause this. I have checked all vacuum line & replaced all with new hose.
Thank you, Bart
I also have a vibration when the truck is setting with the brake on & the C6 transmission in gear. Does anyone have a any idea what could cause this. I have checked all vacuum line & replaced all with new hose.
Thank you, Bart
Senior User
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 166
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It runs
If you have power brakes, there could be a leak in the booster. Makes for a pretty mean vacuum leak when it happens.
1977 F-100
300 I-6 / C-4 (soon to be AOD)
Offy intake w/Edelbrock 500CFM
Hooker Ceramic coated headers w/duals
MSD6
Whiter whites/Brighter brights
1977 F-100
300 I-6 / C-4 (soon to be AOD)
Offy intake w/Edelbrock 500CFM
Hooker Ceramic coated headers w/duals
MSD6
Whiter whites/Brighter brights
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 772
Likes: 0
From: Glen Burnie Maryland
It runs
Best way I know of checking a brake booster is to run the engine for a couple of minutes.....DON'T TOUCH THE BRAKES......shut down engine and wait about 10 minutes then just pull the 1 way check valve off the booster.
If you hear a sucking sound with a *sigh* then it's ok.
One other thing you need to check is the vacumm canister....the one that looks like a BLACK "coffee can" on the right fender behind the battery. IT WILL RUST OUT. Why Ford didn't design a poly carbonate one like everyone else is beyond me. Just picked one up at the dealer (in Md.) for $47.00 NEW. Junk yards wanted $20-25 for used one. Or you can make one from 3" cpvc pipe(sewer line) with end caps, drill two holes, thread and put nipple fittings and a check valve on one side. Make the line about 12" long and seal the end caps on. The fittings will go anywhere you need them to be. Use teflon tape or thread sealant on threads.
Larry
If you hear a sucking sound with a *sigh* then it's ok.
One other thing you need to check is the vacumm canister....the one that looks like a BLACK "coffee can" on the right fender behind the battery. IT WILL RUST OUT. Why Ford didn't design a poly carbonate one like everyone else is beyond me. Just picked one up at the dealer (in Md.) for $47.00 NEW. Junk yards wanted $20-25 for used one. Or you can make one from 3" cpvc pipe(sewer line) with end caps, drill two holes, thread and put nipple fittings and a check valve on one side. Make the line about 12" long and seal the end caps on. The fittings will go anywhere you need them to be. Use teflon tape or thread sealant on threads.
Larry
