Wont Run When Hot
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Wont Run When Hot
My Truck Does Not Want To Run When It Gets Up To Operating Temperature, It Backfires Through Intake Stalls And Sputters. It Has New Plugs, Wires, Fuel Filter, And Fuel Pump. The Codes Are Koeo 15 11 10, And Koer 44 33 25 52. It Is An 89 F150 W/5.0 5spd. 4x4. When It Is Cold It Runs Fine, And It Also Idles Fine When It Is Warm And Sometimes Runs Good For A Minute Or Two When Warm. It Is Driving Me Crazy
Tuned
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A similar condition happened to me a few weeks ago. Don't know if it's the same as yours but this is what I found.
At the time I had a blockoff plate (a piece of sheet metal sandwiched between the EGR and the plenum) to eliminiate a possible vacuum leak I thought I was getting from the EGR. The position sensor on top of the EGR still had the vacuum line attached to it. I found that the sensor was receiving full vacuum to it after the truck warmed up. That's not suppose to happen unless your crusing. Voltage wise, it's suppose to be around .37 DCV at idle and mine read 4.5 DCV. That improper voltage had the net effect of allowing me to start and idle but nothing else. Give it any gas and the truck would stall. Drove me nuts! Bottom line was the EGR vacuum solenoid had failed.
Try disconnecting and plugging the vacuum line to the EGR sensor. It will have no effect on starting the truck. If you can get above idle after it warms up you may have found something. It could be a faulty EGR solenoid. Easy to test and replace if neccessary.
At the time I had a blockoff plate (a piece of sheet metal sandwiched between the EGR and the plenum) to eliminiate a possible vacuum leak I thought I was getting from the EGR. The position sensor on top of the EGR still had the vacuum line attached to it. I found that the sensor was receiving full vacuum to it after the truck warmed up. That's not suppose to happen unless your crusing. Voltage wise, it's suppose to be around .37 DCV at idle and mine read 4.5 DCV. That improper voltage had the net effect of allowing me to start and idle but nothing else. Give it any gas and the truck would stall. Drove me nuts! Bottom line was the EGR vacuum solenoid had failed.
Try disconnecting and plugging the vacuum line to the EGR sensor. It will have no effect on starting the truck. If you can get above idle after it warms up you may have found something. It could be a faulty EGR solenoid. Easy to test and replace if neccessary.
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From: Easton,Ks
Originally Posted by bumper.45acp
My Truck Does Not Want To Run When It Gets Up To Operating Temperature, It Backfires Through Intake Stalls And Sputters. It Has New Plugs, Wires, Fuel Filter, And Fuel Pump. The Codes Are Koeo 15 11 10, And Koer 44 33 25 52. It Is An 89 F150 W/5.0 5spd. 4x4. When It Is Cold It Runs Fine, And It Also Idles Fine When It Is Warm And Sometimes Runs Good For A Minute Or Two When Warm. It Is Driving Me Crazy
The KOER codes:
44 indicates that Thermactor air system is inoperative.
52 indicates that you did not turn the wheel during the test.
25 indicates that the knock sensor is not hooked up or not there.
33 indicates that the EGR valve did not move when told to move.
Do your fuel pumps run all the time the key is on and the engine is not running?
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thats what i thought about the code 11 because thats supposed to be an all clear code. i did notice while running down some other issues that the white/light blue wire going to the eec power relay has about .26v at all times even when the key is off. but the fuel pump does not run all the time. would a bad computer cause that problem, i have just put in my 4th eec relay so i have started unhooking battery ground while not working on it. thanks for yalls help so far.
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From: Easton,Ks
Does sound like a bad computer.
Make sure that the small black wire with a green stripe on it running from the NEG post of the battery has a good ground and your body ground is good.
Make sure that the small black wire with a green stripe on it running from the NEG post of the battery has a good ground and your body ground is good.
Last edited by subford; Dec 13, 2007 at 11:52 AM.
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The Reason For The 44 Is The Air Pump Is Not Even There Anymore And Your Right On The 52, I Didnt Turn The Wheel. If The Computer Is Bad This Would Be The Ideal Time To Do A Maf Conversion I Think, Any Suggestions. I Have Never Done One, And Dont Know Where To Start.
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I Removed And Cleaned All Grounds I Could Get To Reasonably, With No Change, Then Just Out Of Curiosity I Jumped The Ground Wire Going To The Eec Relay And Ran A Jumper Wire To The Body And The .26v Went Away. It Did Not Change The Running Issues. I Bought A New Snap On Scanner Today And It Gave Me A Coolant Temp Sensor Code. But My $20 Advance Code Reader Gave All The Other Codes. Im Gonna Change The Coolant Sensor And See What Happens. I Was Curious If Anyone Else Has Run Into That.
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I Replaced The Ect Sensor And Had No Change In The Running, I Have No Koeo Codes Except 11 And The Koer Codes Are For The Air Pump Which Is Gone, The Knock Sensor Which I Havent Checked Yet And Insufficient Egr Flow. It Runs Like A Champ Until It Gets Warm And Then Bucks And Stalls, It Dies When I Give It More Than 1/4 Throttle Also When Its Warm.
I Wouldnt Think That Egr Or Knock Sensor Would Make It Run So Bad. Any Help Is Greatly Appreciated Cause Im Going Crazy With This Thing.
I Wouldnt Think That Egr Or Knock Sensor Would Make It Run So Bad. Any Help Is Greatly Appreciated Cause Im Going Crazy With This Thing.
Last edited by bumper.45acp; Dec 29, 2007 at 11:05 PM.
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From: Easton,Ks
You need to put a fuel gauge on it to see what pressure you have when it does this.
Also have you checked the timing with a timing light with the SPOUT out?
Should be 10 deg BTDC.
As you may have guessed it sounds like when the computer thinks the engine is warm it is changing your mix to be too lean.
I do not know why the O2 sensors are not sending a code if it is going too lean.
This could also wind up being a bad TFI module or PIP sensor as they can cause these symptoms without a code.
It sounds now that your computer is not the problem.
Also have you checked the timing with a timing light with the SPOUT out?
Should be 10 deg BTDC.
As you may have guessed it sounds like when the computer thinks the engine is warm it is changing your mix to be too lean.
I do not know why the O2 sensors are not sending a code if it is going too lean.
This could also wind up being a bad TFI module or PIP sensor as they can cause these symptoms without a code.
It sounds now that your computer is not the problem.
Last edited by subford; Dec 30, 2007 at 07:44 AM.
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After Doing Alot Of Reading Old Threads I Think I May Have A Bad Tfi Module. I Dont Currently Have A Timing Light (diesel Mechanic), And I Have Just Always Used The Shops Fuel Pressure Gauges (which Dont Have Adapters For My Truck) So I Will Buy Them Both If My Snap On Man Will Ever Show Up From His Holiday Break.