My '88 with 5.8L has become hard to crank when it gets up to temperature. It starts easily when cold, but sounds as if the timing is too hot when I try to start it after a routine drive. The timing is set at 10 deg with sprout connector off, but looks more like 15-20 deg with sprout connected at idle (800 rpm). ECT sensor looks good measuring the resistance, and comparing to temp/res chart. The starter is new, and so is the battery (850 CCA). HELP! Any comments are appreciated. Thanks,

 

replace the tfi module thats mounted to the distributor

 

Can you explain how that effects it? Sorry but I'm just wondering. About how much are they? Auto parts or dealer item? Thanks,

 

I would actually replace the positive battery cable from the battery to the solenoid. Mine was doing the same thing and it cured it.

 

Bad Battery. Takes more amps to crank a warm engine.

 

When you say hard to "Crank" do you mean it does not want to turn over or it is just hard starting but cranks over fine.If it is turning over fine did you clean the IAC valve if that year has one?

 

have your battery load tested. also clean all the connections between your battery, ground and your starter. could be a timing issue but i wouldnt think so. You could pull the tfi module off and make sure there is dielectric grease on the contacts and make sure there is no corrosion.

 

The battery is new, 850 CCA. The cables are 2 years old, replaced when the total overhaul of the truck was done. I will check the connections on both ends to verify good contact. It has had some stalling issues in the past, for no obvious reason, so I like the TFI module option. Hard to crank, means that the motor turns over slow, kind of jerky; "runt...runt...runt" when up to operating temp, but spins over perfectly when cold. I don't really understand why the timing shifts at idle when the spout connector is reinstalled. procedure: engine off, remove spout connector, start engine, set timing at 10 deg. engine off, install spout connector, start engine, timing shows 20 deg, and jumping around. Thanks for all of the advise, so far.

 

Try holding the go pedal to the floor when starting while hot and see if it makes a
difference. You could use keyboard duster held upside down and blast the tfi with
the freon for 5 sec and see if it starts right up, If it is a heat soak problem the
duster will cool it down you could try it on other components too if that doesn't do
it. The computer is adjusting the timing for what it thinks it needs, Try starting it
while it is hot with the spout disconnected.

 

sounds like the starter is dieing then if its acting like that

 

good call on the starter, when it gets warm it could have issues. to know for sure if its timing you could unplug the spout when warm and see how easy/hard it is to start. If you have the same issue then you know its not a timing advance problem

 

With the SPOUT plugged in, the ECU is controlling the timing, and it varies based on operating conditions. Sensors are quarried several times a second for changes, so the timing appears variable when observed. Do NOT put dielectric gel on your TFI. It is not the right grease for the job. Dielectric grease is intended to INHIBIT the transfer of energy. The grease on the TFI is a heat sink compound intended to facilitate heat transfer away from the module. These two compounds are opposites and you don't want to mix them up. Heat Sink Compound can be found at your local Radio Shack, and most other electronics supply stores. You'll spend about $2.00 and get an itty bitty tube that will last you about 20 years ( unless you go through 10 cars a year... ) Just apply a thin modest layer to the back of the TFI ( after cleaning it and the distributor of course )

Now....so far as the issue at hand....I would have the starter load tested. That being said...I've seen a lot of bad battery cable. Especially right where it bolts to the starter...it's exposed to the weather, road chemicals, not to mention the exhaust manifold heat...not a very friendly environment. You might look for signs of corrosion on the starter end....heat will multiply the problem.

Hope this helps !

-Scott Jones
Spokane, Wa

 

scott, is the module on his distributor the same as the one on the 4.9l? i was told to use dielectric on my module is why i was asking. thanks for the info.

 

Thanks for all of the advise. I'll be working on it this weekend and report back.

 

'88 Should be EEC IV with the TFI on the Distributor. A popular mod on the Merkur List I'm on ( German Fords ) is relocating the TFI to the firewall, but there's nothing conclusive that says it will last any longer there, I never figured it was worth it. Sure, it's a $70 part, but it's lasted almost 20 years....not a bad return. It should definitely be heat sink grease. It aids heat transfer away from the module, just like in between the heat sink and CPU in your computer. Dielectric grease is for situations where you don't want a conductor ( plug boots for example ) Some guys use a tiny bit on the rotor in the distributor, tho I haven't personally seen anything that shows it has any use.

-Scott Jones
Spokane, Wa.