Im starting to run brake lines. Will the truck pull to one side if the brake lines arent the same length (or at least close) from side to side? Should I tee the line at the middle of the axle then run the lines to the calipers? I ask because every vehicle Ive see is done this way from the factory and it would be alot easier if I didnt.


Thanks, Dave

 

No. The brakes are a fluid pressure system. The pressure is the same anywhere in the system, regardless of the individual line length (as long as there are no air bubbles).

BTW, we've seen a lot more stupid questions than this one on the forum. You'll just have to work harder next time.

 

No question is stupid. If we don't know and don't ask we would never learn anything. Randy Jack is 100% right about the brake lines. Be sure to double flare the tubing. I ran all the brake lines on the 1948 F-1 using the power master cylinder, brake pedal assem, front disc brakes and rear drum brakes from the 1995 T-bird. I did have to install a proportioning valve that was adjustable between front to rear. The brakes worked as good as you could want them to work. LS.

 

Dave,

Randy nailed it. It doesn't matter if the lines are equidistance or not.

On my 49 I have a hangine pedal assy, my proportining valve is directly under the MC and thats were the front lines split off. One goes directly to the left front while the other side goes up the frame and crosses over in front of the engine and then to the right front. The rears go back down the drivers side and then "T" off at the drivers side of the rear axle.

Run the lines how you like them. Making your own brake lines can be very rewarding and very frustrating. Remember to put the flare nuts on the lines BEFORE you flare them! and don't put the nut so far on the line that the bend traps it (please don't ask me why I mention this...lol)

Bobby

 

Thanks, thatll make it easy

 

Dave
I'll be doing the same very soon. What did you buy for tubing? I was thinking I would buy standard off-the-shelf length straight lines and then re-cut and bend as needed? I read that some wiz bang alloy tubing is available in bulk coiled lengths and isn't supposed to rust? It isn't stainles either. What about fittings? Are they readily available at auto part stores? What are you using for a brake light switch?
Thanks
Bob

 

Bob,
I just re-plumbed my 53's brakes.. bought 3/16th steel off the shelf at NAPA. Don't buy their double flare flaring tool though... I couldn't get it to work at all. I bought a Rigid flaring tool and worked perfect every time.
The only problem with the off the shelf stuff is it wasn't long enough to go from the master all the way to the right front, or the one to the rear axle "T". But the original one that I took off was two pieces to begin with. I may try and find two pieces long enough now that I've plumbed it once... not hard really.

 

Double flares are easy once you get the nack.

Just a nickels worth of free advice. The flareing tools from most parts stores do not last long. I did 2 double flares..and then the clamp arms would not hold the line tight enough for the double flare. That's the bad news--The good news? Normally they carry a lifetime warr. So if you have one blow out on you and not hold the line tight? Just wander back to the auto parts store LOL. (we changed ours out 3 times in 2 days last year)

S-

 

No questions are stupid if they are sincere.

The advice good. Don't skimp on the tools. The only thing I would add is to allow some extra bends and generous radii when routing. You'll notice on some cars that the lines loop in circles before they get to the Master. Straight lines without "wiggle room" will loosen if there isn't some "give".

 

On my 49 I just bought the premade straight sections of tubing that you can get at your local parts house. I got pretty lucky on the front of the truck and had the lengths come out either right on or just a tad long (its a whole lot easier cutting and reflaring a line than it is to try and stretch one....lol)
For the line going to the rear I had to join 2 lengths together with a union. One of these days I would like to go back in and redo my lines from my MC to my line lock solenoid and proportioning valve, just to clean them up a bit. It doesn't look too bad but some tighter radius bends would fix it up (my tubing bender doesn't make teh nice tight bends like the ones you see on the factory cars)

....someday...

Bobby

 

I bought my tubing from Summit Racing. It comes in 20 ft. roll 3/16 or 1/4 in. I think I paid less than $30 for the roll and it worked great. They also have an adjustable proportioning valve/distribution block that gave me 2 master cylinder connections, 2 front brake connections and one rear connection. All my fittings I found at Advance Auto or Auto Zone. Ask them to let you look in their fitting cabinet and find what you need. Best selection was at Advance.

 

Mine came as kit, nothing fancy a couple of long lengths with a flare on one end, some fittings and four flex hoses.

 

I would like to make one run to the rear without a joint so I will try to find bulk rolled tubing locally. Mytbtruck, I looked at Summit and only see stainless tubing. Do you have a part number for std stuff? I don't want to invest in special flaring tools for stainless. I ordered my xmass present. A CPP power brake booster kit with remote fill and 10 lb residual valves for drum front & back. Thanks for the info guys. This site is a super resource.
Bob

 

Almost any parts house can get you thebulk roll. It is not very expensive, and can be had in almost any diameter that you find on the brake pipe rack. Also, if you are going for stock, there is a brake pipe chart in the Ford illustrated parts catalog. It gives the length and size of all the original pipes used.

 

I gave you you wrong info about the roll of brake tubing, sorry. I ordered so many things and forgot that I ordered the roll of tubing from JEGS. The part # from JEGS is 055563030 for 3/16. Price was $27.99 but you have an $11.99 packing and handling charge. They advertise free shipping but that only helps if you order something big. It was not stainless but was galvanized and standard flaring tool worked ok.