If your truck is like my '03 pulling the axleshafts is easy, you can do it with the wheels still on the truck. There are 8 bolts per side and they slide right out. If you're going to pull the axles you may want to think about servicing the rear hubs while you're at it. The new inner hub seals are about $17 each while the axle flange uses an O ring. In order to remove the hubs you will need a special hub nut tool. I got mine from Advance Automotive, Ampro tools T72041, for under $20.

http://www.ampro-usa.com/

 

im with the daddy cat, but im with the other guy before him too about the axles not bending, but i mentioned that earlier as well.

If you can borrow a set of tires from somebody that would make it really easy - especially stock sized ones

kenny

 

BTW, I looked on eBay and found the Truetrac for both the Dana 60($459) and Ford 10.5($519) here:

http://stores.ebay.com/SADLER-POWER-TRAIN-TRUCK-PARTS_W0QQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118QQtZkm

I don't know how hard these would be to do or what all is involved, but for about $1000 you can have them for both ends.

 

automatic for the front is definitly dangerous unless you only lock one hub (i have manual hubs)

but those are good prices, but its just that i want to tell it when to lock and not etc...

kenny

 

I've had my tires balanced 3 times within 4 days. Started way out each time but got down to zero each time. In less than 12 hours, one of my tires went from it's second zero balance to being 7.75 out! Yeah, no wonder this truck shakes. I've now gone to 3 different shops. The guys at Big O only charged me for the innitial balance, they've been great to work with. They used chalk today and found huge flat spots and quite a bit of feathering. Funny how these tires went totally out in just a couple days.

The lifetime unconditional warranty i bought with these tires new from 4 Wheel Parts is bogus. Salesman just wanted a commission and lied about the coverage. The tires are not under warranty. However, they told me since i'm a good customer, they will knock off over $200 toward the purchase of a new set.

The tread left on my tires is about 7, too little to have them shaved. Truck still shakes badly, not as bad as it was, aired down to 40 to smooth it out and help them wear a little more evenly. Now i need to figure out what tire to reaplce these with. Thinking of 37x13.5x17 Mickey Thompson Dick Cepeck Fun Country II but i may have to trim the fenders since i don't want to lift. Sure are expensive but should last twice as long as the Toyos. I think i'll avoid pulling my axle for now, just wait and see what is offered eventually for 37 spline axles.

 

yeah if the tires look physically bad then they prolly are. Did you run a really high pressure maybe for a long time?

if i could suggest a tire - go with bfg AT/KO - expensive but its the best choice i ever made

kenny

 

I wonder if your skid the other day put a big side load on one or more of the tires, and either damaged or weakened part of one of the belts, or cords in the sidewall? And then they have been gradually just breaking since then?

Right before I changed out the Steeltex tires that came on the truck when I bought it, the front right had a bounce. I found a very slight bulge in one spot on the tread, and it would develop a hot spot there after prolonged driving. Seemed like a blowout waiting to happen.

I really like my new Michelin LTX AT/2's, in 285/75, but it sounds like you are looking for something larger and more agressive. Good luck, I hope you find what you want!

 

The Firestone Steeltex tires are JUNK Ford put them on the trucks because they are cheap. Buy a good tire like Bridgestone, Michelin or Toyo.

 

Been running at 50 psi, which is the max for my current Toyo Open Country A/T 325x70x17s. They have run a good 20,000 miles and the guy at 4 Wheel Parts could hardly believe they still have tread left. He says he flat out will not sell anyone a Toyo or Nitto tire because they start with so little tread and wear very quickly. He admitted that wet snow and ice traction on pavement is superior, but prefers something that will hold up, especially for 4 wheeling.

I've been impressed with these tires, my first set were 285s that were quiet, smooth, and had amazing traction. The bigger set is noisy and have worn faster than i expected. They are also very chewed up from wheeling, lots of missing bites of tread. Traction has been amazing on and off road. I've gone through stuff guys with Boggers and MTRs barely made.

Fenders can be trimmed to fit 37s but the most likely contact will be the radius rods. It is most likely that i'll need to stick with 35s, hopefully a true 35. Measured some 35 Baja Claws tonight with good tread at 33". So annoying, hard to know what tire will actually fit.

Seems highly unlikely that the flat spotting happened from just one short skid. Perhaps there is internal damage causing them to go out of round or have belts separate and contract. No rubber shavings inside so i think they are safe to keep driving on until a new set can be acquired. Not looking forward to paying the outrageous prices.

Anyone know if any locker company is offering something for the 37 spline 10.5 or will the Dana 80 locker fit?

 

Unfortunately no one has yet released an A/M locker or LS for the 05-08 37-spline, 1.50/1.56 rear axle in the F350. The Dana 80 is not interchangeable with the Sterling.

 

Just put on new tires and still have the vibration, probably ought to start a new thread.

 

if you start a new thread - link us to it

vibration still occurs at the same speed? What speed is it now?

just throwing things out there - U-joints? Brakes? Drive shaft?

kenny

 

It is under the Super Duty List as "Total Vehicular Vibration"
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...vibration.html