can anyone tell me what i need to up grade to dual batteries in my 93 e-150 conversion van and everything run off one 12 volt battery. I'd like to go to duals like in the disel models.

 

There are several different ways to do a second battery, and each depends on what you want the two batteries to do. Each way has it's pros/cons.
Your post sez you want "everything to run off one 12V battery". So, do you want the second battery as backup to start the engine?
Tell us what it is you're wanting the other battery to do. Also a little more about your van.

 

it's a conversion van with the tv, vcr, radio, power converter and extra lights. everything runs off one battery now which means it don't last long before it's dead. instead of rewiring the back end stuff to a second battery, i was looking at a second battery to add to the battery reserve. instead of 700cca there would be 1400cca (don't know if that's correct or not)

 

So, you just want more capacity for the RV stuff. You can just add one (or more) batteries in parrellel. This is called a battery bank. The amp hour rating of each battery adds (like your cca example above). However, each/all batteries in a bank should be the same Size, Type, and Age. In your application they should be Deep Cycle batteries. If you mix different kinds of batteries, you'll get very poor performance and short life out of them (even new ones).
Also, even a large battery bank will not start the engine if it's discharged too far.

 

Ok will I need a different type of regulater or some type of iosulator between the batteries? Or is it as easy as mount the second battery and run two long cables to the other battery.

 

I also have this question, but I would like to have the two batterys set up, have one deep cycle, that runs all the accessorys in the van in the back portion, LCD tv, ps2, and other essentals to have a tailgate, so that I can drain that deep cycle, but after the game, still have my 1st, and original batter available to me to start the van. I know you can get something called an isolater or something, so that the deep cycle will be charging while driving, but the accessories in the back will only run of the deep cycle, anyone done this, if so, hints or suggestions. Thanks

 

I've been doing lota research for this myself, about to do it for my 1979 e150.

I'm gona upgrade my alternator first, got a very old one, get more amps to charge both faster.
I bought a unit from hellroaring.com, the base model, for 139$.
Its an isolator/combiner. very simple installation, and the most efficient and reliable.

They recommend that you buy one dual purpose starter/deep cycle battery, like the optima yellow-top, to run everything wether the engine is running or not, and buy a regular (cheaper) battery as the second one, which will always be kept fully charged and ready to start by your alternator and hellroaring unit.

The advantage of this is that the two batteries dont have to match perfectly, no chance of frying anything out or getting into complicated installation.

You use TOP-of the line battery as the main, and no matter what, you have a full charged backup to start your van and charge both again.

The setups costs arent too bad either, especially considering how simply and effective this system is.

hope this helped.

 

Did it to my 88 MarkV conversion van.
You need to acquire a dual battery isolator, deep cycle battery, and buy or fabricate a battery mount.
Mount the second battery then any competent local alternator repair/rebuilder can help with isolator install and running of the lead to second battery.
Then if you have an overhead switch bank for your rv accesories you will neet to disconnect its primary wire from the vans original power supply. Run a large guage wire with fuse or circuit breaker to the second battery positive to the overhead switch panel.
If you don't have an overhead switch bank you will need to locate each accesories primary lead and cut it from the vans orinal power. Then run power to the accesory from the second battery.
I would allso install an rv solenoid that disconnects the the second batter between the positive and accesories to be able to turn off the accesories. If not someone will leave something on everytime the van is used killing the backup battery each time you leave parked for a couple of days.
A large capacity RV/Marine deep cycle battery would power my TV, overhead lights, coffee pot, and 12volt electric blanket for about two nights use. But I allways started the van and recharged the second battery daily to be safe.

 

Thanks for the help

 

Check out the photos of my van in the gallery. I ordered it with the dual battery option. This is how Ford did it.

 

The Ford factory dual battery option on the gasoline powered vans is not wired to assist any electrical loads except the trailer tow plug.
Unless the wireing is modified or you have an auxillery load added to it, the second battery will not help start the engine or run any factory loads (radio, lights, etc.) except when the key is in the "run" position only (not start or aux). With the key in the run position, the two batteries are connected via a relay and 40 amp fuse.
There is not a diode type isolator in the circuit.

 

Ford provided very little documentation about the factory dual battery option or function. Do you know where I can get more? A schematic would be good.

 

The factory setup for dual batteries is really nice. But trying to locate and retrofit it to a single battery setup would not be easy and it would be a lot more expensive than an isolator setup. The install that I talked about above cost less than $200.00 and was much easier.

 

HAB,
Do you have pictures of where you put the second battery, From your explanation, your making this sound easier then I thought it would be. I was looking through my owners manual and it stated Ford's factory location for the second battery was on the passenger side underneath the side doors. I would like to see your set up, or maybe a bit more about it.

 

Sorry, but I sold that van years ago. Look at "V10E350"s gallery
(https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/members/v10e350.html)
You should be able to find a welding shop able to fab up a battery box similar for a reasonable price. You might find one in a u-pull-it for even less. A few calls to the local yards and you may be set.