I have read alot of posts and thought I would mention a modification that seems to be simple and overlooked. Taken from my brothers big block s-10 blazer was this idea, how about an electric fan. I will say this though I had all the right tools yet was unable to get the clutch fan to turn off the water pump, and this was on a 95 model. Enter hacksaw, not recommended but I loosened the fan off the clutch and cut it cross ways (read in half) so that I could get it off the clutch. Then I cut in front of the large nut until the clutch fell off. It took a little time, yet it came off rather smoothly. Theres just a large nut in front of the pump. I used a Perma cool 16" High performance fan with the 180 degree thermostat. To give you a better understanding this is the order and my thought on each mod for those who are interested: I added the K&N filter because I needed a filter not for performance, and with that felt no increase of any kind. Then I added the dual Clifford headers with dual 2.25" pipe run to generic turbo mufflers, it has a very good sound when driving, step on the gas and theres your noise yet still remains a nice sound. Again, I thought this would be an upgrade that would only help in the future with other internal and more serious changes where flow is needed in order to keep everything flowing nicely, this time I did notice that it seemed to rev slightly quicker and made it rum somewhat smoother. Next, I did the electric fan mod mentioned above, without a doubt it seems to me it made the most diference (just watch your metal shavings if you use a hacksaw, I soaked it with oil to make the cutting job a little easier and keep metal from getting everywhere) I was extremely happy with this. As a note everything is hooked up and when manually started the fan works, yet it has yet to run (its been two months) and my truck temp increased slightly yet is nowhere near overheating this is with some in town driving and 85 to 90 degree weather (I will get a new thermostat) but again thats not bad considering I am driving around and the engine is staying cool without the fan coming on. And another note, I have seen at golenengineservice.com where they have an Rv long block (4.9 carbed or injected) that can produce 260 hp and 275 pound feet of torque it may not last long at the 5000 rpm where the hp was peaking at, but that sounds like good numbers to me. They are quite comparative to a mid to late 90s chevy 5.7 350 (if they are being honest and not just full of it). If a person could find out what they are doing maybe it could be applied by us. Anyways just thought I would mention this, I know it is lengthy, but I hope this has been informative. Thank you for your time please reply and give any thoughts.

 

DARN! CHEVYS are BETTER! TOO BAD I OWN FORDS. MY BRO WARNED ME ABOUT THIS.

 

If you look at the torque curve of that 300, you'll quickly see that it's BS, a 300 with the peak torque that high will have way more power, and wont have a good idle. Those look more like 302 curves(it's also a 4.9L.) If they aren't full of BS, I'd like to know how they gained 110 horsepower but only 10 ft/lbs over a stock EFI 300, and moved the peak up 1000 rpm... We hashed it out over at the Ford Six forums, and it just doesn't make sense. Dyno2000 spits out 234 hp@4500 rpm and 330 ft/lbs torque form 2000-2500 for my 300(With EFI, but, I've got a few bugs and am rinning a carb), and I have a Clifford 270H moving the valves around, the valves are 1.94/1.60 SBC and I do not have a "good" idle, I have a very nice lumpy idle......
Evan MacDonald
82 F100 FlareSide 2wd
HD 300-6 9.5:1 CR
Clifford 270H cam
Hedman Hedder
SBC valved 66 240 head
Headlight Relays - Delanty Style
NP435(6.69 low)
3.55 Geared ARB'd 9"
31x10.50/15 Cooper Discoverer LT's