First Post: Many questions
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Xbfh
Originally Posted by baddad457
I'd like to have seen that trick. Only way I can think of that being accomplished is with the XBFH method. 
that would explain why the outermost edges of the bearing were worn from hand turning the crank. the bearing was concaved on the wear surface because he forced it in.
maybe he thought it was a chevy?
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well the motor is in the truck, bolted up to the bell housing and mounts and all that. so i went out this morning to put on the 4 TC nuts. i slid under the truck and put on the first nut. as i tighetend it i thought the rotational force of the nut being tightened would naturally turn the flexplate so i could access the other nuts. not so much. so i hooked up the battery to the starter and CLINK! nothing. it's locked up again!
i know the motor was spinning free when i put it in. any ideas on what it could be now?!
i gotta go to work and defend the nation and things i hope there are some helpful comments for me tonight. thanks!
...frustration...
i know the motor was spinning free when i put it in. any ideas on what it could be now?!
i gotta go to work and defend the nation and things i hope there are some helpful comments for me tonight. thanks!
...frustration...
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2005
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did you have to force the bellhousing to the engine block with the bellhousing bolts, or did it slide tight up against the block. the way it is now can you move the converter at all. loosen that one nut you got in there and see if you can push the convereter back away from the flexplate.
Just thinking you might not have had the converter seated all the way into the pump....
Just thinking you might not have had the converter seated all the way into the pump....
Hotshot
Joined: May 2003
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From: south louisiana
Originally Posted by multisonic
it went together smooth all but the last 1/2 to 3/8 of an inch and i just brought it together with the BH bolts, that a bad thing?
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Hotshot
Joined: May 2003
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From: south louisiana
Well if the engine will freely rotate, you can try firing it off and see if the transmission operates normally. But if not, then you'll have to pull the transmission and change the front pump (or maybe just the gear, you'll have to consult a better transmission guy about this) When the convertor is seated all the way into the pump, the studs on the front of the convertor will just fit behind the flexplate and you'll be able to rotate the flexplate to the point where the studs line up with their holes. Then you'll be able to pull the convertor studs into those holes to start the nuts.
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well i am getting pretty good at pulling the motor out. took me an hour this time. ha ha.
anyway i pulled the TC but I dont know what signs to look for. is the pump gear the big (outer) or little (inner) shaft on the trans or is it in the converter?
thanks for helping me through this dad and eater...
anyway i pulled the TC but I dont know what signs to look for. is the pump gear the big (outer) or little (inner) shaft on the trans or is it in the converter?
thanks for helping me through this dad and eater...
Hotshot
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 11,141
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From: south louisiana
To see it, you'll have to remove the bolts in that dark looking center casting that the convertor hub fits into. The front part should come off, exposing the gear inside. If it's broken, it'll be obvious.
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so it's all good in the hood. everything works and drives and all is well except TIMING. theres no timing tab where it's supposed to be. it's not like my 318 that was stamped on the cover. theres supposed to be a tab or something? how can i set the timing now that the tab is missing/gone or whatever the previous owner did with this crucial part?