I know these questions are slightly off topic for this forum, But I've gottne some of the best answers in this forum, so I'll ask anyways. Again sorry for being slightly off topic.

First, I'm looking at going down to the scrap yard and making a deal with the owner for a C6 transmission (with over drive). I do lots of highway driving and I want some thing with a overdrive gear, and from what I have read from the archives, the C6 is a good transmission. Right now I have what I belive is a C4. My question is are there any models/years I should look/lookout for? Also is it a big effort to swap? Do I need a different size driveshaft, mounting brackets, etc??? Is it worth it to upgrade?

Also, at the same time, I'm looking at getting a posi-track rear end to replace my what i belive is some sort of limited slip. I live up in north-west Ontario where we have to put up with snow and ice in the winter, so the extra traction would be great for my 2wd. I was wondering how a posi-track handles in town, while turning corners, tire wear, and performance in off road conditions??? Again, would this be a worth while upgrade?

Thanks
Chris

My Specs:

http://chris.dryden.net/truck.jpg

81 Ford F150
Restored and Rebuilt
Brand new body / Metallic Blue paint
Clifford Water Heated Intake
Clifford Dual Headers
Holley 390 CFM carb
Flowmaster 40 series Muffler
Dual 2.5" Exhaust out the back
American racing rims
Radial TA Tires
1700 Watt Stereo System

Deadly sound combo of stereo and exhaust to make all parents lock up their 18 year old daughters!!!!

 

It's my understanding that the C6 is strictly a 3 speed tranny and that the overdrive version is the E4OD which is basically a C6 with an overdrive added, but also electronic shifting. Supposedly the later model E4ODs are better, I think mid 90s on than the early ones, around 90ish. There is a good explanation of the Ford auto trannies at http://www.baumannengineering.com>.

 

What you may be looking for is the AOD (Automaic Over Drive). I'm not sure if it will bolt up to a 300. Anyways, the output shaft is a different length on the C6 compared to the C4 - so, You'd have to look around for a drive shaft or have one custom made. Read the post in the classics forum from Laptopgeek. He's puttin in a 460, but still - decided to go with the C6 (bigger block). If you have a low ratio in the rear, you may have to also bump up to run a decent RPM in 4th gear if you do the mod.

 

Thanls for your replies. Would it be possible (worth it) to hook up a transmission that is electronic shift controlled as oppose to my vacume controlled one? What youd be involved? My truck is an 81, and has no brainboxes what so ever. I'd imagine that it would not be a fun task.

Thanks
Chris

 

I had saved this off a FTE thread several months ago. I think it will help you in deciding what tranny to use:

The AOD and the E40D are most definitely not the same tranny. The AOD has been replaced by the AOD-E, which is now called the 4R70W. Even in it's present, vastly improved form it is smaller lighter and weaker than the E40D, which is now called the 4R100. If you're willing to put in stand alone electronics to run the tranny, the E40D is the way to go in a truck. See <http://www.baumannengineering.com>/ for info. If you want to avoid the electronics, the best source for (mechanical) AOD parts and technology is <http://www.artcarr.com/>

 

Chris, where are you at in North-West Ontario? I may be moving up that way. Anyway, a Limited Slip and Posi-Track are one and the same, Posi is just GM's name for it. In snow/ice, you are better off with an open diff and lots of weight in the box or a selectable locker and lots of weight, both wheels spinning tends to throw the truck sideways. And, I'm curious, that 1700 watt stereo includes subs right? Where do you have them?
Also, if you have a C4, the bellhousing is removeable, while, if you have a C6, the bellhousing is part of the tranny.
Evan MacDonald
82 F100 FlareSide 2wd
HD 300-6 9.5:1 CR
Clifford 270H cam
Hedman dual exit Hedder into
2.5" straight pipes out the back :-)
SBC valved 66 240 head
Headlight Relays - Delanty Style
NP435(6.69 low)
3.55 Geared ARB'd 9"
31x10.50/15 Cooper Discoverer LT's

 

Thanks all for your input. I will do a bit more research, then review my options.

82F100SWB:

I live in a small town (now a city for some reason) called Dryden. It is half way between Winnipeg MN and Thunder Bay ON. Where are you possibly moving to? The 1700 WATTS is Max Power of course, 1 Boss Riot 635 AMP (600 x 2) for the subs, 1 Boss Riot 335 (250 x 2) for the mids/highs. I have 2 x 12 inch Kenwood (600 Watts MAX) subs behind the seat in a truck wedge box which cost me $500.00!! The box is as just about as long as the cab, but both subs fit good!!


If you are interested in a Boss riot 635 amp, there is a guy on Ebay (the guy who I got mine from) who has 12 of them left, brand new never been out of the box for sale -- each $127.00!!!


Thanks
Chris

 

Well, this is weird, I was in Dryden about 2 weeks ago. We flew to Thunder bay, hung around there for 3 days, drove to Sioux Lookout, we were there 4 days, were in Dryden for 4 hours or so, then drove to Winnipeg. Not really sure where we will be moving to, either Sioux Lookout, or Dryden, Mom is looking for a job up there(I'm currently in Antigonish, Nova Scotia.)
Now that sounds like my kind of stereo, The one in my truck is actually half decent other then the front speakers, even though it's all early 80's stuff. Sears head unit, Jet Sound 100x2 eq/amp on RCA inputs, 2 5¼" Realistic's in the doors, and 2 Delco 6x9's in the rear, all it needs to sound good is some new front speakers, and some subs, but, you know the way this stuff is...
Now back to content that kind of relates to this board, you have yourself one sweet truck there. You basically have the setup that I want, only, I've got a Clifford 270H in there too... Mine is a work in progress, the box is shot, and it needs paint, but, what's a 16 year old to do?? I have a half finished Ram air setup on my truck, you get some weird looks when you have 2 seemingly useless 5½x8 holes in the front edge of your hood.....
Also, how is your exhaust system set up? Is it a dual in/dual out muffler, or a single in/dual out? I've got duals and straight pipes :-) I ran it for 8 months with open collectors, people would not get in the truck with me, even my my crazed F-bird driving buddy(ever see a 2.8L Firebird doing 150 in 3rd gear??)....
Evan MacDonald
82 F100 FlareSide 2wd
HD 300-6 9.5:1 CR
Clifford 270H cam
Hedman Hedder
SBC valved 66 240 head
Headlight Relays - Delanty Style
NP435(6.69 low)
3.55 Geared ARB'd 9"
31x10.50/15 Cooper Discoverer LT's

 

Let me know where you end up moving -- we can go for a ride or something.

Anyways, My truck is also a work in progress, and has been ever since I got it. This weekend, I need to do some work to it, as I have been on many road trips, and put about 5000km over the last month, with no maintance. I have a front break that is squeeking, and I need to replace my universal joints, but that is a whole other story.

That is crazy -- open collectors. I had to drive my truck like that to the garage for them to fit the exhaust and I was scared to crack the gas. I have the dual clifford headers, joined into a single 2.5 inch pipe, running into a flowmaster 40 series muffler with single 2.5 inch in, dual 2.25 inch out. I was too cheap to buy two flowmaster mufflers, as they were each 150.00, and I did all these upgrades in one shot. If I was going to do it again, the only thing I would do differently would be getting my headers ceramic coated, because they fit better than I though and the original paint started burning off after about 1 month of driving.

How is your cam shaft? Does it sound different/better? How is the power difference?

Chris

 

 

[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 22-Jul-01 AT 10:40&nbsp;PM (EST)[/font][p]Let me know where you end up moving -- we can go for a ride or something.

Will do, It may be as soon as September.

Anyways, My truck is also a work in progress, and has been ever since I got it. This weekend, I need to do some work to it, as I have been on many road trips, and put about 5000km over the last month, with no maintance. I have a front break that is squeeking, and I need to replace my universal joints, but that is a whole other story.

Hmm, I've never had any trouble with my brakes, other than ripping the flex hoses off doing some serious 2wd wheeling...
Are those U-joints worn out, or do they have the crap beat out of em? I haven't had a U-Joint on the rear driveshaft last long enough to wear out, I keep making 3 pieces of them :-)

That is crazy -- open collectors. I had to drive my truck like that to the garage for them to fit the exhaust and I was scared to crack the gas. I have the dual clifford headers, joined into a single 2.5 inch pipe, running into a flowmaster 40 series muffler with single 2.5 inch in, dual 2.25 inch out. I was too cheap to buy two flowmaster mufflers, as they were each 150.00, and I did all these upgrades in one shot. If I was going to do it again, the only thing I would do differently would be getting my headers ceramic coated, because they fit better than I though and the original paint started burning off after about 1 month of driving.

Well, you get used to it, and if you don't get on it in town, it isn't too loud, mind you, it didn't help my hearing any....
I don't blame you for not buying 2 Flowmasters, those suckers are expensive, I didn't have much in the way of cash when I got my exhaust put on, so, I decided not to bother with them, I did have a couple cherry bombs on it to pass inspection(we have yearly safety inspections here.) I'm wishing my header was coated too, the paint burnt off after 3 days of running(I was shutting down lots of rice boys back then.) I've thought of sandblasting mine and sending them out for coating, but a friend of mine has stove/bbq black on the Clifford header in his 66 Mustang with a 12:1cr 200, and it's holding up.

How is your cam shaft? Does it sound different/better? How is the power difference?

You bet it sounds different, a stock cam simply won't allow 6000 rpm....
There is a really big difference in power, even though I swapped back to the 1bbl from EFI due to timing issues that I haven't been able to fix. Have a little listen to [link:www3.ns.sympatico.ca/mtflemm.mac/fordpage/wavs/cammedrev.mp3|this]
Just a little different than a stocker eh? I have very good throttle responce, major low end, and a very lumpy idle, but, the cam is installed 4 degrees retarded, so, things aren't quite right. It won't go past 4000 rpm with the vacum advance hooked up, and it's making power below where it is supposed to. That's what I get for using old timing gears.....
Evan MacDonald
82 F100 FlareSide 2wd
HD 300-6 9.5:1 CR
Clifford 270H cam
Hedman Hedder
SBC valved 66 240 head
Headlight Relays - Delanty Style
NP435(6.69 low)
3.55 Geared ARB'd 9"
31x10.50/15 Cooper Discoverer LT's

 

My u-joint at the rear diff was toast. I'm lucky that they lasted this long. The cap with the roll pins was only about 1/4 left!!

Two more questions about your cam.

How did it effect your gas milage?

Did you have to install special springs, and if so, are they easy to install without having to remove the head?

Thanks
Chris

 

Now, that's what I call a bad U-Joint....
Well, before the cam, EFI, and 4wd, I was getting as high as 22, when I put the cam in, I couldn't use the efi, and my front axle and t-case were out for re-building, and I was getting 19-20, and with it back in 4x4 form, I get between 15 and 17.
Clifford requires you to use their high lift springs to keep a warranty, but, since I got my cam on a trade, and I only had 10 of their springs, I didn't bother, just left my new stock replacements in place. Changing the springs wouldn't be hard, just get one of those adapters to hook a compressor into your spark plug holes so the valves don't drop, a spring compressor, and go at it. Probably an hour or so to do it if you've never done it before.
Evan MacDonald
82 F100 FlareSide 2wd
HD 300-6 9.5:1 CR
Clifford 270H cam
Hedman Hedder
SBC valved 66 240 head
Headlight Relays - Delanty Style
NP435(6.69 low)
3.55 Geared ARB'd 9"
31x10.50/15 Cooper Discoverer LT's

 

Hey vic - it's a small world. I'm also in Dryden ... I also don't have a CLUE why it's now a city. I noticed in your specs that you have a 'new body' on the truck ... where did you get panels and what were the cost? I need some repairs done on my 84 after I smoked a deer on the 3rd on 17 just past the weigh scales heading east (in the dip). I need a new grill/light assembly on the driver's side, inner/outer quarters on the driver's side, a new rad, washer/coolant jug, possibly some other parts I'll find out about when I can finally get the dang hood to open. Did you get body panels through a body shop, TJ's, or Bert? I'm trying to just find a parts truck, but if push comes to shove I'll have to buy new.

---------------
Chris in Canada ... Dryden specifically.
74 Gran Torino Brougham ... the toy, now the driver ... 351W 2v, C6 auto ... loud as #?!!, finally rolled 40,000 miles after a trip to Indiana.
84 F150 2WD ... the truck ... 2WD, 300 I6, NP435 4spd non-OD, 3.08 open rear ... open grill and rad courtesy of a large white-tail doe.

 

Cool, Dryden.

Anyways, I got all my body panels at TJ's. Kevin charged me I belive (if I'm looking at the right reciepts):

$106 for each front fender,
$304 for the whole back passenger side box pannel (long box)
$299 for the whole back driverside box pannel (with dual gas tanks).
$190 for each door.

At first, I figured that I could just buy the sections where it was rusted, then weld them in. I quickly found out how extermely hard that was (the steel warps realy easily while welding), and how it is just easier, by the time you have to weld, grind, bondo, to just buy the whole section.

I also needed a new rad (as well as everything else). I got mine at canadian tire, which cost $181.

Good luck, and I'll probibly see you around town because yes, it is a small world.

Chris