EBPV Problem?
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EBPV Problem?
Hey, I am a first time diesel owner in need of some help. My beast is a 96 F250 with a 7.3 and an A/T. It has Hypertech tuning installed, a Banks turbo down pipe, and 4" exhaust with no cats. My problem is when temperatures fall below 40 degrees or so, it hisses really loud and lacks power until you step on it. I understand somewhat the operation of the EBPV, but is it normal for it to keep operating for like 20 minutes of driving? Even when the hissing stops, It feels sluggish at part throttle and sounds and feels almost like a gas engine suffering from bad spark plug wires. When I floor it though, it picks right up. When temperatures are around the normal 45+ here in Washington, it seems pretty good. Also, sometimes before the engine is totally warm, it runs a little unsteady and feels like it is surging when i'm driving down the road. If you guys have any ideas or experiences to share with me, I would appreciate it.
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Exhaust Back Pressure Regulator
Exhaust back pressure regulator is a variable position valve that controls exhaust back pressure during cold ambient temperatures to increase cab heat and decrease the amount of time needed to defrost the windshield. The PCM uses the measured exhaust back pressure, (ambient) intake air temperature, engine oil temperature and engine load to determine the desired exhaust back pressure. Valve position is controlled by switching the output signal circuit to 12 volts inside the PCM. On/off time is modulated from 0 to 99% dependent upon the exhaust back pressure desired. Upon each initial engine start-up, the PCM exercises the exhaust back pressure valve by commanding it to cycle on and off once. If upon start-up the temperature of intake air sensed by the IAT sensor is < 37°F (5°C) and the oil temperature sensed by the EOT sensor is between 32°-140°F (0-60°C) it will continue to keep the back pressure valve partially closed. As the oil temperature rises during engine operation, the PCM will control the valve in response to the rising oil temperature.
Therefore it your IAT or EOT sensors out of range or reading those temps above, EBPV will not completerly open.
Exhaust back pressure regulator is a variable position valve that controls exhaust back pressure during cold ambient temperatures to increase cab heat and decrease the amount of time needed to defrost the windshield. The PCM uses the measured exhaust back pressure, (ambient) intake air temperature, engine oil temperature and engine load to determine the desired exhaust back pressure. Valve position is controlled by switching the output signal circuit to 12 volts inside the PCM. On/off time is modulated from 0 to 99% dependent upon the exhaust back pressure desired. Upon each initial engine start-up, the PCM exercises the exhaust back pressure valve by commanding it to cycle on and off once. If upon start-up the temperature of intake air sensed by the IAT sensor is < 37°F (5°C) and the oil temperature sensed by the EOT sensor is between 32°-140°F (0-60°C) it will continue to keep the back pressure valve partially closed. As the oil temperature rises during engine operation, the PCM will control the valve in response to the rising oil temperature.
Therefore it your IAT or EOT sensors out of range or reading those temps above, EBPV will not completerly open.
Originally Posted by 390Highboy
Hey, I am a first time diesel owner in need of some help. My beast is a 96 F250 with a 7.3 and an A/T. It has Hypertech tuning installed, a Banks turbo down pipe, and 4" exhaust with no cats. My problem is when temperatures fall below 40 degrees or so, it hisses really loud and lacks power until you step on it. I understand somewhat the operation of the EBPV, but is it normal for it to keep operating for like 20 minutes of driving?
Even when the hissing stops, It feels sluggish at part throttle and sounds and feels almost like a gas engine suffering from bad spark plug wires. When I floor it though, it picks right up. When temperatures are around the normal 45+ here in Washington, it seems pretty good. Also, sometimes before the engine is totally warm, it runs a little unsteady and feels like it is surging when i'm driving down the road.
I am experiencing the same problems,
here is what I have found.(what emission model?)
Looks like you might need new ICP sensor, and/or running it on Synthetic oil.
If you guys have any ideas or experiences to share with me, I would appreciate it.
Even when the hissing stops, It feels sluggish at part throttle and sounds and feels almost like a gas engine suffering from bad spark plug wires. When I floor it though, it picks right up. When temperatures are around the normal 45+ here in Washington, it seems pretty good. Also, sometimes before the engine is totally warm, it runs a little unsteady and feels like it is surging when i'm driving down the road.
I am experiencing the same problems,
here is what I have found.(what emission model?)
Looks like you might need new ICP sensor, and/or running it on Synthetic oil.
If you guys have any ideas or experiences to share with me, I would appreciate it.
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From: THUNDER BAY
YEH unplug it my EBPV is gone got rid of it and it isn,t running any diferent ,it still warms up the same but it does cool off faster when I idle,but it is -23C do you still have the stock air box?
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From: Cincinnati OH
i noticed mine seems different this year from the past two winters, and since this is first winter with my open exhaust, it's pretty loud at 5:00 in morning when i go to work. I think the neighbors will appreciate it if i unplug mine like i have planning on doing for a while.
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Thanks for the help. I thought about just unplugging the EBPV, but I wasn't sure if it would take a long time to warm up or not. Dinikin, you mentioned the ICP sensor. What is the definition of ICP and what does it do? Where is it on the truck? I am not sure what emissions model it is. How do I tell? Yes, I am still running the stock air box with a K&N drop in.
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From: THUNDER BAY
Originally Posted by skittlejr
i noticed mine seems different this year from the past two winters, and since this is first winter with my open exhaust, it's pretty loud at 5:00 in morning when i go to work. I think the neighbors will appreciate it if i unplug mine like i have planning on doing for a while.
HA HA the people next to me hate my truck ,I have an idle control box and let mine rev for about 10 min at 1300 rpm
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From: Youngstown,ohio
So if you unplug the EBPV connectoer it will stay open all the tim?
Where is the connector at?
And any way to make sure the valve itself is pysically open?
Maybe this is why I get such cruddy mileage in the winter plus it does seem to take forever to warm up.
Where is the connector at?
And any way to make sure the valve itself is pysically open?
Maybe this is why I get such cruddy mileage in the winter plus it does seem to take forever to warm up.
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From: Cincinnati OH
one time cuda, i think it was him, posted a pic, actually a line art figure from the manual, that showed the little actuator arm on the turbo and which way it should look when it's open. maybe he will be along to let you know or you could search out that thread. i think it was back in early-mid summer. i think the connector is up under the turbo.
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here you go
Originally Posted by 390Highboy
Thanks for the help. I thought about just unplugging the EBPV, but I wasn't sure if it would take a long time to warm up or not. Dinikin, you mentioned the ICP sensor. What is the definition of ICP and what does it do?
I am not betting money on it, since I have not fix that jerking driving while cold, but if HPX mod does not fix it. I will be swapping it out in a week or so an follow up with me on that.
And ICP is the one on the bottom/center of the pic.
Where is it on the truck?
I am not sure what emissions model it is. How do I tell?
1. By vin number
2. Does Fuel Transfer Pump have a flying saucer type of thing behing it? You see that is a fuel pump look behind it.
Yes, I am still running the stock air box with a K&N drop in.
Ditch that K&N right NOW. Go with Tumar intake
I am not betting money on it, since I have not fix that jerking driving while cold, but if HPX mod does not fix it. I will be swapping it out in a week or so an follow up with me on that.
And ICP is the one on the bottom/center of the pic.
Where is it on the truck?
I am not sure what emissions model it is. How do I tell?
1. By vin number
2. Does Fuel Transfer Pump have a flying saucer type of thing behing it? You see that is a fuel pump look behind it.
Yes, I am still running the stock air box with a K&N drop in.
Ditch that K&N right NOW. Go with Tumar intake
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Just to be clear, fuel transfer pump is that shiny thing in front of the turbo between two sleaves,
If there is a black flat NLO type thing behing it, then you got Callifornia emission on your truck
Where in WA are you?
If there is a black flat NLO type thing behing it, then you got Callifornia emission on your truck
Where in WA are you?
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: MICHIGAN
Here's the EBPV. Be sure it's open and not stuck closed.
More info:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...-question.html
More info:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...-question.html
Last edited by Cuda_jim; Dec 9, 2007 at 07:25 AM.
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Thanks for the good info guys. I'm thinking about just gutting the valve. Other than the warming up issue, would there be any downsides to doing this? Also, where can I get this Tymar intake setup, and what advantage does the Tymar have over the K&N or other cold air intake with the cotton filter? Are the cotton filters bad for allowing too much dirt into the intake? Oh, Dinikin, my truck is not a California emissions model.
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Dry (cotton) filters actually filter better than the wet (k&n type) filters. About the only issue with dry filters is that they need to stay dry...ie. DO NOT GET THEM WET. You can make a Tymar type set up cheap and easy. Do some searching around or call Dale at Tymar and he will take care of you.
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