flaring brake lines
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 359
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From: garden valley, ca
flaring brake lines
ok, ive been trying to flar a brake line for several days. my problem is that i cant get the darn thing to flar center. if tried about 10, 15 times, is it just me or what.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,232
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From: Colville, Washington
A couple thoughts:
1. The end of the tubing has to be PERFECTLY straight and free of burrs.
2. The tubing has to protrude through the yoke the proper amount(double flaring set should show how).
3. You are using a double flaring set, right?
1. The end of the tubing has to be PERFECTLY straight and free of burrs.
2. The tubing has to protrude through the yoke the proper amount(double flaring set should show how).
3. You are using a double flaring set, right?
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,232
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From: Colville, Washington
Cheap flaring tool? Or maybe something is wrong with it? I am fairly good at double flaring(years at an old style parts store where we would flare the lines if needed) and I still have to practice a couple before they start turning out well. It is not easy to explain the process, but easy to learn by watching.
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,557
Likes: 2
From: Texas
You should also use a lube (motor oil is fine) on the anvil and tube. Be sure to lightly bevel the outside edge of the tube.
Most budget flaring kits do not hold the tube well, so I usually shave a little of both clamp edges (the edges with the half circles in them) on a belt sander.
Most budget flaring kits do not hold the tube well, so I usually shave a little of both clamp edges (the edges with the half circles in them) on a belt sander.
Junior User
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 81
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From: W. MI
I had a similar problem with my flaring tool that I bought a few months ago. I finally fixed my problem by sticking a little extra line through the clamp when I put the first flare on. Also, experiment with different amounts of inside flare. It may not always be necessary to "bottom out" the die to form the inside flare.
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More Turbo
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 551
Likes: 63
From: NC
I've owned several double flaring tools , but never had one that worked well until recently. I bought one at O'Reilly's auto parts for 19.99. It works great every time. I had gotten to the point that I dreaded trying to double flare brake lines so much I had used lines that were too long by putting extra bends in them to take up the "slack". No more , now I don't mind using the new tool and have even flared some pieces of left-over tubing I had stashed back. Remember to put the nut on before you make the second flare . Don't ask . I can't remember the brand name or part number of the tool I bought right now, but I think all O,Reilly's stores have the same parts , regardless of location. Let me know if you don't have an O'Reilly's near you and I will try to help you. Happy motoring to you and your'n. Tom.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Piney Woods of East Texas
My set is made by Rigid, 3/16-5/8". Works every time for me, if I use the gage blocks.
If you use SS tubing you do not need a double flare.
Make sure the flaring head floats freely, grease th contact point. The body of the flare to tubbing holder should be fully locked in place. If it's allowed to float (move) it will not be centered. Which is what you are saying off centered.
My set also has a gage block for setting how much tubings needs to be extended to make the flare. Try only sticking up a very minimal amount of tubing at a time and see if it helps. Normally needs around 1/8" or less, did not measure mt gage blocks.
If you use SS tubing you do not need a double flare.
Make sure the flaring head floats freely, grease th contact point. The body of the flare to tubbing holder should be fully locked in place. If it's allowed to float (move) it will not be centered. Which is what you are saying off centered.
My set also has a gage block for setting how much tubings needs to be extended to make the flare. Try only sticking up a very minimal amount of tubing at a time and see if it helps. Normally needs around 1/8" or less, did not measure mt gage blocks.
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