I was looking at getting some headers and was wondering what you thought about the tuned and not tuned headers...
I was looking at a set of either Hooker Comp headers or their Super Comp headers. The Super Comps are tuned and the standard Comps are not. $179 for regular and the Super's are $409. That is a big difference between the two. It's hard to believe that the tuned are that much better, but would rather have the opinions of you more experienced people....

 

Josh, How many rpms are you planning on turning the engine to? Are you looking at some hard racing?


John

 

John, I am not racing this engine. It is just a truck that I am fixing up to drive around and maybe spin a tire or two... I am only planning on turning it to about 6000 or there close.

 

Get the cheaper ones! Probably not that either will fit well anyway LOL!! (ok, I don't know this for sure, but don't see many that do).

"tuned" usually means equal and specific length, and usually larger diameter tubes. Nothing much you need to worry about in a street toy. You'll NEVER know the difference driving around town. Only the fact your wallet would be lighter if you buy the tuned versions.

 

Ok. That was my opinion too, but just wanted to ask. I can get a set of Hedman headers for the same price and I know they fit good. My dad has them on his 67 F100 with no problems. I might just go that route and have them ceramic coated here locally. One other person said that the "tuned" ones sound better when you run strait through exhaust, but like you said on the street you would never be able to tell the difference.

 

I was thinking the Supercomp had the cermic coating too, The reason for the higher price.

 

6000 rpms that is some pretty serious twisting for a non race setup. I try not to let mine get to 4000. I did go to 5600 once in second, that is where it hit 100 mph.

Hey if your pockets are deep and you have a soft and fuzzy feeling right now about the truck throw the big bucks at it, but probably can get by with the less expensive ones. IMHO


John

 

Just as Freightrain said, for a street truck and not a Racing vehicle, you'll never feel the difference in the seat of your pants... And there so Called "Tuned headers are" Just as explained...equal length tube with slightly bigger primarys and a little kager collector...

Actual Tuned headers are custom made to an engine with known exhaust flow, Port size, Actual engine cubes, intake and carb (carbs) size, Actual RPM to be used in...usually WOT.... and then the formula comes up with Primary Dia. Primary length, Collector Dia. and Collector length....For max hp and tq at a given rpm.. and usually run between $1000 to $1400 Not Coated....lol JMO

Russ

 

So your going to get me a set of those for Christmas right Russ ?

 

My pockets aren't at all deep, that is why I was asking before I bought anything...lol 6000 really isn't to bad considering the cam is rated from 2500 to 6500 and the motor is fully balanced. I haven't turned it that much yet being it's a new motor, but sooner or later it will.

Russ, I have an uncle that has a 59' Fairlane Galaxy 500 with a stroked 427 in it. He took the car to a shop and had them make him a set of custom "tuned" headers for it. Those things are huge and yes you are close on the price. I think he said he paid around $900 for the set, then had them coated. He don't race that thing, but he has sure went all out with it. From the stroker kit to CNC ported and polished Edelbrock Aluminum heads and two fours. Dang thing will scat!!! Sorry a little ...LOL

Blue68f100, You can get the Super and regular Comp's in painted or coated. The price I listed was not coated. They are like regular comps $409 coated and the Super Comps are $659 coated. I contacted a company about two hours away from where I live and they do the ceramic coating for about $150 for the set. They offer a 3 year warrenty on the coating, which the big name brands only offer like 90 days or maybe a year. From what I have read and heard other people say the ceramic coating that comes on these headers is crap. They are mass produced and no quality control is involved. Hooker(aka Holley<<CRAP) has moved there company to Mexico and the quality is suffering because of it.

 

Well pbear, what alot of builders and street racers donr understand, that with a coated set of headers you have too go into a coating curing process....Or the coating either starts changing in color and will come off and look like crap...

When I had a Brand X motor in the A/ED I forst had a set of Jet-hot coated headers..and I had them on it for about a year before I went with a set of Chrame plated headers... They guy I sold them too.. wonder how the coating stayed looking like new...?

I said well alot of guys buy them and stap them on there motor's on first fire up....And you cant do that....They have to go thru a number of heating and cooling cycles to cure the coating.... JMO

RJ

 

I didn't know about that curing process until I started looking at getting some coated headers. I'm sure you are right that most people don't know about it. How did you break yours in. Do you just drive it like normal or do you have to do something more detailed?

 

Well there's probably diffrent curing procedure's on some of the new stuff...But My Motor was allready broke in....and didnt need any Cam time or bearing time on it..... But at that time I belive Jet-Hot said to run the engine for about 15 mins. and shut it off..and let the headers comepletely cool off to the touch...and then run them again up for about for about 20 mins..and running the motor up to higher rpms at times and holding it for a minute or so.....and letting them cool off to the touch ,and I think the Last was for about 30 minutes.....Varying the RPM's troughout the motors rpm range, and holding it for awhile at a higher rpm for a few minute's...and then letting them cool off..And I think at that time they were set and cured...

This is the best I remembered with some of the first coating.....this has been a few years back....So what ever you do..just follow the Coating Manufacture's recommendations and you should be ok... JMO

RJ

 

My motor has been in and running for about 6 months or so. It shouldn't need anymore break-in that I know of. I can just ask them after they do it how they need to be broke in or cured. I try to do everything the manufacture says to do one most stuff. Even when I broke in the cam I ran it for 30 min at 2000rpm, then changed the oil again. Just like Comp said to do. Some people say that stuff is overkill, but as much as stuff cost to repair I would rather be safe then sorry.

 

Well Thats right pbear.....rather be safe than sorry for the money some of these parts cost.....Like I said..I dont know how much the chemistry has changed in the new hearder coating...But I'am sure it has.... and if you have allready broke the Cam in ....Know problem with running the motor up too what ever rpms the Coating manufacure wants then..and then going back thru a couple of cycles... and you should be good to go... JMO.. But alway's do your research from the company that does the coatings....

RJ