Hey fellas, long time no see. I've been having some decent luck with starting in cold weather. About 3 cranks to get the truck running at about 22 degrees after sitting for about 2 weeks. That is without a block heater pugged in. I have new glow plugs as of last year, good old 15w-40 Rotella oil. Any recommendations for better starts? I know of Dave S. having excellent starting with his 6.9 at 10 degrees or less.

I also had another idea. Its getting down to single digits around here, I was wondering if anyone had thought of incorporating the dodge style intake heating grid in addition to the IDI starting system. It can't hurt right? Thinking of making a mock-up heating grid to drop into my Banks intake before I starting putting the kit back together. Let me know what you think.

-Dave

 

I have started my 6.9 with a heat gun before, so I don't see why it wouldn't work. The only disadvantage I found is that there is a longer delay before the engine actually fires when compared to glow plugs, but it seems to come to life more smoothly when it does catch. It was only around 40F when I tried it though, not sure how well it would work in the single digits.

I would consider using a setup like you describe, I've had much grief with glow plugs....

If you have any ideas on how to rig up such a system, I would be very interested to hear them.

 

My 10 degrees was actually -10 degrees F.
I also run synthetic oil which also helps.

I have also lowered the compression ratio in my engine, before I lowered it -10 was an easy start.
After lowering the compression I don't think I would want to try -20 without plugging in.

 

I read a post on here a while back about using a Hibachi grill under the truck to warm it up.

 

Wow. I think I would try an oil pan heater before I used a Hibachi. Would be a lot of heat loss, not to mention the danger of hot coals under the engine. But who knows?

 

i have started mine with a comercial style heat gun just put it to the intake and let it blow for a while then hit the key

 

We have built fires under the engine in heavy equipment before, you just have to be careful.
Barbeque grills full of charcoal, seen that before as well.
Oil leaks or fuel leaks can make the engine warming fire bigger than intended real fast.
Torpedo heaters work well also and are much safer, but you still have to watch how hot things get.

In all of the above you have to use a tarp to shut out the wind under the engine or the heat just blows away before it gets to the engine.

When I gelled up out in Kansas one night the service truck that came out had a very nice setup.
He had a canvas tarp cut 4 feet wide with wood ribs screwed on the tarp about every foot for the entire length of about 30 feet.

Unrolled it around the front of my tractor, attached it to the tractor with a couple bunge cords.
Then rolled a torpedo heater under the rear end by the drive wheels.
In 30 minutes everything was warm enough that it fired right up.
No fighting with fuel filters or parafin in the fuel lines.
Then just added a couple gallons of gasoline to each fuel tank and I was good to go.

PS that was back in the 70's before fuel treatments were so common and each fuel tank was 200 gallons.
At the time each tank probably had about 160 gallons in it since I was a little over 300 miles out of Denver.
Tomahawk truck stop used to sell #3 diesel in the summer.
We had an overnight temp drop from 75 degrees in Denver to 5 below that night out in the Kansas plains.
Trucks were dropping like flies, all of them gelled up.

 

Thanks for the support fellas. Can't say I've haven't done a few crafty things like that Dave S. Comes in handy to have the know-how when you get in a pickle.

I have a hunch that my cold timing advance in the IP is shot, might have to look into that.

Now, about that heater grid. Found a used one out of a cummins on Ebay. Looks like it would be the right demensions to fit right in my airbox. Heck, might be able to plumb it right into the intake but make it removable for the summertime. Just gotta figure out how to incorporate it into the existing starting system. Doubt the batteries would have enough juice to run it and the glowplugs at the same time. Might consider having it wired to its own switch inside the cab so that I can run it seperately to heat up the intake air. Not a bad idea, its a start anyway...

-Dave

 

i have often thought of trying a MFA off a Nissan they are 4in round with a large amount of grids to heat the surface. Had one go out on the wifes car and would not run worth a flip come to find out it heats the air to a constant 300 or better deg at start up then monitors the air temp after this

 

i reallly wonder why cummins is the only people that use heating in the intakes my neighbers 90 cummins starts at a tap of a key in -10 iwth out pluggin it in i mean mine did too with glow plugs last year but his just seems to work soo much beter no relay no glow plugs to replaced it just seems like all the trucks should have them

 

I never really looked at the Cummins system, but the way the volt meter drops when it is heating, I bet there is a relay in the circuit somewhere.

 

Dave. I can relate to you and your low temps in Denver and Kansas. I lived in Cheyenne 1962-1965 and again 1967-1973 again 1973-1980. Finally got tired of battling trying to get equipment running in -20 deg F and working in construction (electrician) in those temps so I moved to Florida. The heat is tough to work in but doesn't seem to bother me as much as the cold.

 

You could first change to 10-30 Rotella and never look back this winter.....

6.9-7.3 Engine oil requirements by Ford

32F to 100F+........30wt

0F to 100F+..........15W-40

32F to way below freezing ........10W-30 "MY choice under 32F to -45F"

With the new oils...... 0W-40 is a good choice too in extreme cold

We spend a lot of time around -30 to -45F were already in the -20F's this week and have been for this past month. With 10/30 I have started my truck down to -45F not plugged in. I know it sounds like BS but I have witnesses.......