Hello

I have a 65 mercury that im painting and I have some pretty severe cancerous rust in it. I have the entire floor pan and cab mounts that are rust free from another truck. Now if I were to weld these in and install them would I need to remove the cab or could i do this while it was still mounted. I probably will need to remove it and im close to that already but installing them while the cab is still on would be easier. Some advice on this would be greatly appreciated.

 

I did a set of front cab mounts by jacking the body up after removing the mounting bolts then removed the old ones and slid the new ones in place and secured them with drill screws. Not perfect but good enough for a driver or beater. Tom

 

Chad, I checked your gallery and saw no photos of work in progress. It's hard to say without knowing what you are dealing with.

I'd suggest that if you have a place to lift the cab and can do it without separating the front clip go for it. If you have already pulled the front clip, go for it. The fenders have to be re-aligned if separated from the cab, so I would try to keep them together if possible. A cab can be tilted backwards on the chassis if everything else is clear, and rolled back up when completed.

What condition is everything in now?

John

 

I did both pans and cab mounts on my 62 unibody by jacking and bracing. I removed the front clip (and had no engine) because I had some other rust to fix. If you decide to do it this way, I would suggest you at least remove the front clip to give you the room you need to work.

Hope this helps,
redf100

 

I replaced the cab supports by rolling the cab back on the chasis. It took me a while to get it to that point since I have little time to work on the truck. I've dismantled the entire truck and have been working on it piece by piece. I attempted welding the cab supports by jacking up the cab from the frame but I didn't like the idea of getting hot weld spatter inside my shield. It was too cramped for me to do along with severe neck cramping. I gues it will work if you aren't welding it. Good luck

 

Been busy with school and finals so havent had much time. Finally have the christmas break to work on my truck. I will have pics up later for everybody to see what im workin with. Thanks a bunch and Merry Christmas.

 

Remove the cab and doors. Support the cab or hang it using 2x6's through the door openings. Weld a couple of temporary x braces in the door openings about striker plate high. Cut the old pan at the cowel seam, along both step plates and across the floor in front of the rear cab support. Clean everything with a grinder, torch and wire wheel. Replace the floor with a good one from any 65-79 F100-F250. It is surprising to see how little these floor pans have changed from 65-79. I also cut the baloon out on each side (area behind the kick panel) and weld a plate reinforcement for the lower hinge, then reinstall the baloon. You will see all this clearly when you get it disassembled to the point that you can install a replacement floor. Sandblasting the replacement floor before you have at it is best for easier welding. Good Luck!