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[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 03-Aug-01 AT 01:30 PM (EST)[/font][p]I was wondering if I can get some help from you all. I have a '94 inline sixer 4x4 and I'm getting some low voltage readings. The battery is good and the alternator tests fine at about 14 volts. However, I am getting about 13 volts across the battery unloaded and about 11 or 12 when the lights/AC/etc. are on. I have checked all the wires leaving the alternator (the one feeding itself, the one to the gauges, the one to the solenoid, and the one to the starter) and they all have continuity. Also, soleniod and battery terminals have all been sanded to ensure good connections. Has anyone had a similiar problem or have any ideas of what it might be?
Sounds like your Alternator is getting ready to go SOUTH.
With the engine OFF.....Battery should read right around 13.5
With the Engine running .....Battery should read 14.5 or so. (This is Alternator chargeing about 1 - 1.5 volts above static charge voltage of battery.)
You will notice a voltage drop when you load up the system and voltage rise when load released. Thats normal nature of D.C. systems.
Does your Alternator "load up"(develop a WHINE when running and you load up the electrical system?).
BEST THING to do is take down to Western Auto, Napa, Autozone or wherever /whatever your autoparts store is called and have them test the battery and charging system.
Thanks for the reply. I'll have to get that checked out soon. For some reason, I've gone through 5 alternators in the last 5 years. One a year, just like clockwork!
Hej! I went through so many alternators in my 74 4x4 that I finally ripped one apart. These rebuild houses are going for quantity/not quality. Since then I rebuild my own alternators and starters. The parts are inexpensive, and it only takes 20 or so minutes. Brushes should be less than $5.00 and a new front bearing (good one, US made is a must!) is about the same or a bit more. Make sure you clean up your slip rings. Herman
Herman, what do you about the diodes when you rebuild? Do you unsolder a lead and check front-to-back resistance ratio? Is this a valid test for the diodes (if you get open circuit one way and zero the other way?_
Also, where can I get good quality bearings and brushes?