When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Success! I replaced the intake and exhaust seals on the suspect cylinder - drove the truck for 20 minutes on the highway - pulled the plug and no oil on the threads and the plug had the normal light tan look.
Having never replaced any valve seals before I was initially thrown by the type of seal Rhino had used in their rebuild. The seal was metal over the bottom 7/8ths of the seal. My new seals were all rubber with small metal bands in the top and bottom half. I finally tried prying with a screwdriver under the metal band of the old seal and it popped off.
Tearing down and reassembling was 90% of the process but this is the 4th time in 4 months that I've torn down the engine and I've become reasonable competent with how everything goes.
The rope trick in the cylinder was great - worked perfectly.
Very good thread. The rope idea is good, as long as you use the right style rope, and don't have little threads from it get stuck in the cylinder!
I would suspect the failure of additional valve stem seals in your near future. I don't know how bad yours was, but my 351 had 220,000 miles on it and never showed signs of oil in the chamber. You could have had just one bad seal!
Believe me the thought crossed my mind too. Big difference here is that my engine is a new reman. with less than 1500 miles on it so far. I think the reman. company, Rhino Engines, botched the installation of one of the seals. The rest of my plugs look perfect. Rhino doesn't dyno test their remans. It looked like to me they turned the engine over at 200 RPM and then recorded the compression readings (there was a sticker on the shipping crate). If they had fully ran the engine I'm sure they would have caught it as I saw an oil loss equal to 1 quart per 500 miles as soon as I put in the engine.
I first used 3/16" rope but it was unable to compress it firmly against the valves. Then I tried 3/8" to 1/2" rope which did the trick.
Oh wow. Ol' Rhino would be getting a phone call if that was me.
Chances are that engine just had a bad cylinder wall or crank, and all they did was replaced the part or bored the cylinder. I've actually heard of people tearing down Jasper engines and only one cylinder would be bored .10 or .20 over stock, and the rest remained stock. I personally haven't seen this, and have no idea if it's true. I would think there would be a bit of a balancing issue, but who knows! I'm glad you got the problem fixed. You can always rely on the guys and gals in this forum!
Update: I put in a complaint about Rhino Engines to the Better Business Bureau in New York State, primarily to get my $150 core refund due to me within 21 days after returning the core - that was mid September. Addtionally I gave the details on the valve stem replacement and the over the top rudness of the Rhino Service Manager. Who knows, maybe I'll see some reimbursement for my time to replace the seals .
When you file against a company with the BBB, you can see how many complaints have been filed against that company and the outcome/resolution of the complaints. No surprise that nine complaints have been filed against Rhino since July 2007. Seems like alot in a short time frame. Also Rhino Engines are not on the BBB list of accredited companies. No duh!
the rope trick is a new one the norm is there is a chuck that scews into the plug hole that will fit onto the end of an air hose turn your compressor on an behold you can do the same thing except no rope to snake in the cylinder !In the end i'm glad you got it fixed and good luck with legal recourse with Rhino sounds like you will need it
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.