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I would like to get your opinion on a Bypass Filtration System. I think that they are a great idea, but I would like to get some insight from some people who have experience on them. How often do you have to change the filter/clean the filter? Is there a definite difference in your oil life? What manufacturer? Is it too late to install one if you already have 170,000 miles on your truck? I guess what I am getting at is: Is the $300 to $700 purchase price worth what you are getting?
easy to install and easy to change filters. I like the fact it has a bullet proof cover over the filter element. IMO it's better than having a filter hanging out in the open waiting for road debris.
First, if improved economy of operation isn't a concern, and you will be changing your oil at some relatively-low mileage interval, it probably doesn't make sense.
Bypass filtration is a real plus only when you want to get rid of the stuff that the regular, full-flow oil filter allows to pass through. In fresh, lower-milage oil, there isn't much of that stuff, hence no need.
If, however, you are aware that most oil is still good far beyond the mileage that we typically are taught to believe is its usable life, and want to maintain it in as "uncontaminated" a condition as you can, then a bypass system is for you.
The cost involved doesn't have to even approach the level you quoted, however. I added a very tried-and-true system to mine for a little over a hundred dollars, and that's not "cutting any corners". It's not marketed as the latest and "best", but it does the job for me. I have the Blackstone reports to back that up. It's not sub-micronic, but it doesn't have to be. Of course, there will be purists that will argue that point. :-))
I run my oil for 18,000 miles each full change. Each complete change uses three bypass filters and one full-flow. There's two Blackstones in there, too, for peace-of-mind. Given the prices of make-up oil, three bypass filters (they're relatively cheap, currently at $2.79 each), and the lab reports, I'm probably not ahead money-wise. However, $40 of the cost is the two reports, and that's just re-assurrance.
To each their own. Mine works well - "for me", and if you're interested in one way of doing a bypass system, look in my gallery.
Pop
Last edited by SpringerPop; Dec 5, 2007 at 11:22 AM.
I, too, have the OG bypass system, and have been running it since January of this year (almost 20K miles on the system so far). I, too, amd changing both elements at every oil change. I've heard of some folks doing only the full flow element every change and the bypass element every other change.
I ran my first oil through it for 12K miles, and have almost 8K miles on this current batch.
The system is built rock solid, no doubt. If I had to do it all over again, I would seriously consider the FS2500 system because it has larger filter elements for better oil cooling and more filtration surface area, as well as an excellent reputation, even though it is more expensive.
I ruled out the Amsoil setup because it bypasses a larger percentage of the oil flow, which creates the potential for lower main oil flow pressure for the engine (in comparison to the OG and FS systems). I even talked with the Amsoil Technical Support group, and they verified the potential pressure issue.
in terms of "is it too late at 170K miles?"... I personally don't think it's ever too late to improve the filtration for any fluid on your engine. Only thing I would consider it pointing to not doing it is if you're having trouble maintaining oil pressure today. If there's no trouble today... go for it.
Thanks for your input. I think I will have to save up for the FS2500. I saw their demonstration video and was pretty impressed. I would just like to get the oil life out of my AMSOIL 5W-30. You guys convinced me. Thanks. I really appreciate it.
[QUOTE=F250_]I, too, have the OG bypass system, and have been running it since January of this year (almost 20K miles on the system so far). I, too, amd changing both elements at every oil change. I've heard of some folks doing only the full flow element every change and the bypass element every other change.
QUOTE]
I have been wondering where the oil guard system gets its oil supply
I have an ams oil dual system and after doing some reading am skeptical about installing it,but was thinking may be another way I can pick up a supply to use it as a bypass and leave oem filter intact
I have been wondering where the oil guard system gets its oil supply I have an ams oil dual system and after doing some reading am skeptical about installing it,but was thinking may be another way I can pick up a supply to use it as a bypass and leave oem filter intact
If you look in my gallery, you can see how the OilGuard is installed. It does leave the OEM filter location intact, and simply gets its supply from a port near the OEM filter location, while the return line goes into another port near the OEM filter location. Both ports come with small plugs in them from the factory, and all you do is tap into thoses built-in ports for the supply and return for the OilGuard setup.
I, too, had bought the Amsoil setup and decided that the OilGuard setup was probably better... fortunately, like you, I reached this conclusion before installing the Amsoil system and was able to return it for a full refund.
If you look in my gallery, you can see how the OilGuard is installed. It does leave the OEM filter location intact, and simply gets its supply from a port near the OEM filter location, while the return line goes into another port near the OEM filter location. Both ports come with small plugs in them from the factory, and all you do is tap into thoses built-in ports for the supply and return for the OilGuard setup.
I, too, had bought the Amsoil setup and decided that the OilGuard setup was probably better... fortunately, like you, I reached this conclusion before installing the Amsoil system and was able to return it for a full refund.
Does the OG housing have any type of restrictor or bypass valve or straight through
I bought my amsoil system used with three sets of filters so couldn't return it so I have a good bit of $$$ tied up and would like to use it for something
I think it was you saying you change bypass filters every OC you should get at least two changes on them,I have run lubr-finers on many big motors and would change them every 4 oil changes,many run the longer but filters were cheap and only took 2 to 3 gal extra oil
The OG housing has a sampling valve built into it, and there is a restrictor in the flow to limit the amount of bypass to about 5% by volume. I have never used the sampling valve on the bypass mount, as I would rather sample straight from the sump through my Fumoto valve there.
I'm changing teh bypass element every time right now just because I keep evaluating different oils, and I want all the evaluations to be apples-to-apples. Once I settle on either Schaeffer 9000 or Rotella-T synthetics, I will probably change the bypass elements every other time.
I have the FS system in addition to using the Amsoil EOa99 as the OEM filter. I recently pulled the valve covers to do the UVC harness repair - installed the missing plastic retaiining clips and was very surprised that the valve spring/push rod area was super clean. I can only attribute that to using the bypass filtering system and the synthetic oil. I have over 243k miles on the '02 F-250 truck.
I run the oilguard and change the filter every other oil change. I havent had enough miles without a leaking engine to know how many miles to go on a sample. And, my personal opinion, you should run a heavier weight than 30.
And, my personal opinion, you should run a heavier weight than 30.
the difference between 30 & 40 weight is really personal preference,we run 30w in trucks and heavy equipment for many year when nothing else was available with no problems
many of the equipment builders used 30w in every component of the machine
I run the oilguard and change the filter every other oil change. I havent had enough miles without a leaking engine to know how many miles to go on a sample. And, my personal opinion, you should run a heavier weight than 30.
I was running AMSOIL 15W-40 a few weeks ago, but when the temps got down to 0 degrees my truck would die after it hesitantly started. I changed out to 5W-30 and runs very smooth. Huge difference. Well, it seems like the bypass filters are well worth the money if I plan on keeping my truck for a few more miles.
My issue is that I just don't like the fact that I have to go a year or a year and a half to get 12-18k on my oil. I just don't see the benefits when I can go 6-7k on Rotella Syn without the bypass system, and have fresh oil every 6 months. Like was already stated, there is little if any cost benefit, so I think that it's just easier to put in new oil than deal with bypass filters, sampling, and the specter of wondering how the oil is REALLY doing after a year in the crankcase. I know the lab reports will tell you how it's doing, but I prefer the new stuff. Just MHO...