Well i'm almost done breaking down all the tin on my truck, except a few bolts that have rounded heads.

The only thing I can come up with is welding a nut or bolt to the top of the rounded end so I can put a wrench on it.

tried a torch on one(only one) and I'm pretty mad at myself for that. Didn't do that much damage but I listened to the wrong voice in my head at the time .

So all I can come up with is that, but a little skeptical that it might turn out bad. Any Ideas all!!!!!

 

Couple of ideas, can you grab the head with a set of vice grips or you could drill the head of the bolt with a drill the size of the shank and then break the head off or you could maybe cut the head off with a high speed cutting wheel. Hope something works I hate it when I strip a bolt head nuthin but a pain once you do.

 

The rounded ones on my truck were removed with either a nut splitter, or by just grinding it down to the sheet metal, then punching the bolt out. Neither method was my first choice, but each was a last choice.

 

All the above, vise grips, etc. For the rear fender to bed I tightened the nuts until the bolts broke.I cut off /ground the round head and the shank until almost level with the bed surface, both sides. I will use increasing size bits until the shank is drilled out. If the round head is turning I've good luck with a easyout on the head side and cut the bolt with portable grinder. Have a great day,chuck

 

Left hand drill bits slightly smaller than the size needed for threading. Sometimes the drill will just back the bolt right out, if not drill it out the proper size and tap it.

 

are they too far gone to just drill them out? i used screw extractors when i broke down my mustang, but that car was about twenty years newer.
matt

 

ha, we posted at the same time!
matt

 

Got a good air impact wrench? Just over-tighten them until the break. Your going to replace them with new bolts anyway.

 

I usually start with oxy acetylene on the nut, get it red and then go at it with the wrenches (or vice grips if needed). It is rare that that does do the job. The heat expands the nut and breaks down the rust in the threads.

 

if you can get a welder to them i would weld a nut to them the heat from welding will help to i got my door screws out by welding a bolt to them and just kept welding it to the next one worked great

 

I used a grinder on my stubborn ones, snapped a bunch of others off (but that won't work with a rounded head) and used a nut splitter on others.
And this is the fun part...

 

Sears and others sell sets of "bolt extractors" the reverse of screw extractors. They look like a set of sockets with curved teeth inside that bite into the bolt head or nut.
If I can get to the nut with a cutoff wheel then I use that, only I don't try to cut the bolt off flush with the panel it's too easy to cause damage that way. Instead I cut vertically into the bolt and nut, spliting it down the middle until I get to just shy of the panel. Put a cold chisel in the slit and give it a tap or two to split the nut.

 

The ones Sears sells are called Bolt-Outs, they work well.

 

I got the same problem.. but alot of the bolts are up in the front sheet steel. like from the upper fender to the cross support, (part that holds F O R D) This is on my '49 btw. how would i be able to get these out

 

If you can get a socket to them then the bolt-outs should work. If you have a compressor you might want to invest in a 3" cutoff tool, they can get into much tighter spaces than an angle grinder. Sometimes just cutting the end of the bolt that sticks out of the nut off will reduce the resistance along with the cutting heat breaking the rust bond. I'm a great believer in the power of liquid wrench when applied liberally over several days before even attempting to remove rusted fasteners. Also repeat after me: WD40 is NOT a PENETRATING oil, thou shall not use as a substitute! (In fact I haven't found much that it is good for...)