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I left my truck idling today to jump start something, and while it was running the truck sputtered and died, I had walked off and left it and when I got back it wasn't running and there was fuel EVERYWHERE. All over everything, it took me a while to find it but when I turned on the electric fuel pump it shot fuel out the very tip top of the manual lift pump, so apparently I need a new pump. How much is this going to cost, I have an old parts truck, but I would hate to go through all the trouble of swapping them if the one on the other truck could possibly be bad, I would rather put a new one on if its not too expensive.
Manual lift pumps are about $30........ were you operating both pumps together this is a no no.. Check your oil level for fuel......
If you want to operate the electric only remove the old manual lift pump and put a Chevy Big Block blockoff plate over the hole......... about $6 at most AP stores.
Manual lift info.....
This info pertains to Carter #M60278 pump or new long arm style.
WARNING
This fuel pump must be installed only at the low position of actuator cam.
If the pump is installed at any other position than low cam, the pump will be ruined, the engine will stall and damage may result.
Incorrect installation will loosen the pivot pin and allows the pin and lever to come out of the pump and drop into the oil pan. This can occur immediately or after several hundred miles. This type of failure is not covered by warranty.
To ensure that the cam is at low position, it is necessary to use a mirror and a remote starter switch. Observe the cam through the mounting port and bump the engine around until a one (1) inch wide machine surface is observed. This is low position of the cam. Now complete normal fuel pump installation.
It won't hurt it to run both, I do it on all my trucks, and have been for years. I replaced it today, the first place I went to charged me $65, but the arm was obviously different from the one that goes on the truck, so I took it back, and since it was the only one they had, I went to the other place in town, and they had the right one, it was only $28, which I thought was a big difference. Its easy to get it in their right, all you have to do it turn the motor over until it goes in the hole and mounts up flush, without any forcing, never force one in the hole, turn the motor over until it goes in on its own.
If you think diesel causes problems when this happens, you should see what happens when a gasser does this, my 76 ford 390 locked up two weeks ago, pulled the dipstick, its way up the stick, and locked up tight, so now I have junked the truck, it was on its last leg anyway, but I would hate to do this on my nice Diesel truck, it isn't something I want to throw away anytime soon. I have a low pressure electric pump, mainly just for reprime if it runs out, but the manual pump has more suction than the electric pump, so it doesn't cause problems.
originally when i bought my truck it had a two wire elec fuel pump installed after the manual lift pump.... i took it off and ran fine. reason for this???
I can't see much of a reason for a electric after the manual. I have always been told put the electric as close to the tank as possible. I also know that if you put the pump on there for performance and don't remove the lift pump then it probably exceeds the lift pump specs and then you end up with trouble like dave said. Believe me I did it. I had to flush my oil pan because my truck would heat up quick and knocked really bad. Really and truly you don't need an electric fuel pump unless you want it for performance or easy bleeding of air from the system.
I do have a question though can you just disconnect the lift pump and not pull it and put a cover over it when you put an electronic on it.
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