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I have a 32 X 36 garage I built last summer. It gets a little cold here in Ohio so I heated it with kerosene. The fumes get to me and so does the cost of the kerosene now. I do not have any way to get gas out to the garage so I was wondering if there was an electric reznor heater that will heat the space to a comfortable temp? It is heavily insulated in the ceiling and the block walls are poured solid. Thanks for the help.
Kevin, why don't you try propane heaters? They have portable units that really generate some heat and no odor... I don't need a heater here in CA so I'm not a real expert on the subject. It's in the low 80's today.
Kevin, For your garage if you don't want to extend the gas or install a propane tank I woiuld consider one otf the larger Monitor kerosene heaters like EBAY #170174714337. I would recommend the larger (about 40,000 BTU/hr) models. They are popular in Maine and very easy to install. (you will need to install a kero tank however. There is no free lunch but anything is better/safer that the non vented kero heaters.
I'm in central Illinois, probably similar climate to Ohio. My shop is about the same size. I've got R-40 or so in the ceiling and normal R-13 pink in the side walls. I've got three garage doors that are themselves each rated R-14. No windows. I set it up for propane, but never saw need to put in a furnace. Instead I've heated it to a comfortable 60/65 all winter with just two of the oil filled electric heaters. The kind that look like old style registers, don't have any exposed flames, and no fumes. Stu
my workspace is 16x35, well insulated, r-40 plus exterior sheeted with styrofoam.so whatever r-value that works out to be, have a propane fireplace.....way overkill......
run it for 1/2 hr thn shut it off for the evening from 70 it takes a hr or 2 to get down to 65, thats on average 15 deg. outside in the winter.
but when i'm doin paintwork i obviously cant use the gas heat so i use a 220 construction heater, it too is more than adiquite.
mikie
near ottawa canada
58 m100 panel, 64 econo p/u
I'm in the same boat, Kevin. My insurance co. said I had to remove my woodstove from the garage, cuz the new house is too close. Unattended fire they called it. Up here, it gets COLD, so I have a 20lb propane tank and a 30,000-80,000 btu Coleman torpedo heater. Total investment of a hundred and some. Problem is it's loud. So I'm looking at the overhead 220v electric heater as advertised in the Northern Tool catalog. Or I might pull the water heater out of the old trailer and find some old water filled baseboards. And try running it off-peak. IMO, electric seems the way to go.
Havi,
I would find another insurance company. I live here in Central N.Y. and it gets cold here in the winter. My woodstove keeps my 24x40 garage very warm. It's insulated and drywalled all the way around. Sometimes I have to open the window to let some cool air in. Wood is cheap, I find hard wood pallets near work and tear them apart to burn. It does take some time to do that, but hey they're free. I don't have that many fires as with two trucks in there, it's kind of tight to do much. I usually go out there on the weekends to get away from the wife.
Stay warm...
Jeff
Yeah, I'm gonna have a talk with them and get a straight answer about the "can do's and can'ts" Thing is, I'm considering building a new garage further away, and use the wood stove in there, and leave the current one alone....it's an old one ready to fall over, the floor is cracked really bad...it's not raised up at all, so it gets wet, and they "engineered" the headers the wrong way, so all the weight sits on top of the post between the doors, the ceiling sags 6" in the center, the upstairs gable roof is seperating at the seams, and the walls are 2x4 construction with half uof the bottom plate hanging off the concrete. The floor has no rebar or mesh. Say the least, I'm money ahead building new, but won't afford it for a couple more years.
I would like to add a pole barn on the back of my garage someday. I have just under two acres and would like to keep my projects where I can see them every day, and have my shop to work on something. I can't afford 30k to put up a pole barn now either. Sounds like you would be better off with something a little newer.
Stay Well...
Jeff
Kevin, Are you saying the block walls are poured solid with concrete or insulation? A block wall even poured with insulation will not have much "R" value. Electricity here in the Black Hills is cheap so that is what I use. Have you considered a used oil burner? -- Chuck
Sorry Kevin. Well, instead of a pole building, I built a 36x44 shop that's been converted into a home. I had envisioned parking all my stuff under one roof and looking at it all everyday, too. So.... The plan is to retire someday (40 years from now), and put up a prefab, and convert the house back into the shop. I have a 16' door header framed in, and shop-light outlets tucked up into the rafters for eventual nailing in. The wiring is "dead headed" to an extra set of breakers. The interior walls are set in place, but made to be knocked out with relative ease. The bathroom is in the corner, and will stay there. in-floor heat, 10 ft. walls, etc... problem is, it got out of budget, so it may end up a home for quite some time. So now I'm thinking of a smaller garage where the trailer is...like a 26x36. Just big enough to park a project sideways in the back, and allow the daily drivers to have a place to sit in front. All the finished projects will need a home, too, so...the list never ends, lol.
Well, I may have to go that route. I called my old plumber to see if he could run gas out to the garage. He was supposed to do that before, but never made it around to it. I already have a gas furnace out there so I may as well just get the gas ran.
If you have gas on the property, running gas to the garage for heating is definitely the way to go. The cost of the gas line will be paid back the first winter. Have you checked with the gas co to see if they will run the line (see if they will do it for free by putting in a separate service meter for the garage)? The newer direct burial flexible gas line makes it a lot easier, safer and cheaper to run gas line than before when you had to use solid pipe.
If you have gas on the property, running gas to the garage for heating is definitely the way to go. The cost of the gas line will be paid back the first winter. Have you checked with the gas co to see if they will run the line (see if they will do it for free by putting in a separate service meter for the garage)? The newer direct burial flexible gas line makes it a lot easier, safer and cheaper to run gas line than before when you had to use solid pipe.
I agree. almost 30 years ago I ran black iron gas pipe from my house to my pole barn shop (previous home in Ma.). The new flex piping is a piece of cake by comparison, I had quite a time with the building inspector at the time. He just did not want to hear about a homeowner running his own black iron gas pipe. Once he finally came for the inspection (open trench) he was so full of himself that he was bursting at the seams! Then he finally got down to the inspection. I found out how much he really knew when he looked down in the open trench and pointed at the bag of metal fillings with a wire protruding that I fastened to the pipe and asked "what is that?" After I told him that it was a consumable anode I was then asked "what is that for?" That is when I found out how little he really knew!
Kevin, I would go for the gas.
Last edited by 49willard; Dec 5, 2007 at 01:08 PM.
I would use a heater that draws air from outside, in fact there are propane heaters that are left outdoors, run portable hose duct into your garage. Gas heaters inside will use up oxygen and then there are the fumes given off by the heater. Here in Canada, it is minus 22 Celsius , makes for a cold shop.
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