Royal purple in diff a good idea?
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From: arizona
Royal purple in diff a good idea?
I know royal purple makes good stuff, but is it good for our 9" rear ends?
Also, is it easy to do the job, haven't looked much but didn't see a drain plug when I just glanced at it and what weight 75/90?
Thanks,
Mike
Also, is it easy to do the job, haven't looked much but didn't see a drain plug when I just glanced at it and what weight 75/90?
Thanks,
Mike
Last edited by azfordf100man; Dec 3, 2007 at 09:14 PM.
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From: Madison, SD
a 9" doesn't have a drain plug in stock configuration. Never have run Royal Purple, I use Mobil 1 Synthetic in everything, engine, trans, and rear end. No complaints. I use the lighter weight synthetic in the rear end on the drag car, but the heavier weight synthetic in the rear end on street stuff and trucks....
When you switch yours over to synthetic, it's best to remove the center section and scrub it and the housing out with stanasol and wipe/blow it all dry, then reassemble with a new gasket and install the synthetic lube. This will keep you from contaminating your new synthetic lube with gunky old dinosaur oil......
When you switch yours over to synthetic, it's best to remove the center section and scrub it and the housing out with stanasol and wipe/blow it all dry, then reassemble with a new gasket and install the synthetic lube. This will keep you from contaminating your new synthetic lube with gunky old dinosaur oil......
Last edited by Dave Severson; Dec 3, 2007 at 10:42 PM.
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From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Mike, If you are racing like Dave, you want every advantage that you can get.
You truck has spent it's first and best 40 years on regular ol Dino gear oil. Spend your money any way that you like, but the truck will do just fine on the old stuff. IMHO
John
You truck has spent it's first and best 40 years on regular ol Dino gear oil. Spend your money any way that you like, but the truck will do just fine on the old stuff. IMHO
John
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From: Madison, SD
Originally Posted by jowilker
Mike, If you are racing like Dave, you want every advantage that you can get.
John
John
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From: texas,earth
Originally Posted by jowilker
Mike, If you are racing like Dave, you want every advantage that you can get.
You truck has spent it's first and best 40 years on regular ol Dino gear oil. Spend your money any way that you like, but the truck will do just fine on the old stuff. IMHO
John
You truck has spent it's first and best 40 years on regular ol Dino gear oil. Spend your money any way that you like, but the truck will do just fine on the old stuff. IMHO
John
Royal purple in the driveline in both the 46 and the 69. Nice thing is the RP has a better "cling" factor if the vehicle sits for long periods of time, so as to avoid a total dry start. Besides, with the synthetic, you improve lubrication & can pick up slight fuel economy #'s
just my .02
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From: arizona
I don't hot rod the truck around or anything, I just want to give the truck good quality fluids. Sometimes I drive the truck a long distance and I figured the rp could help control heat, and I'm not sure if the diff is original or not? I also want to use the max atf but not yet as I just had the tranny rebuilt, so I'll use the fluid that's in it now and switch to rp when it's time to change.
So basically, rp is a good thing right?
Mike
So basically, rp is a good thing right?
Mike
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
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From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Originally Posted by fitzwell
Yep....and you can eat 99 cent cheeseburgers if you want.
Some would argue about the virtues of any product like RP.
To respond further to Dave's comment, I don't believe there has ever been a failure of a rear that was properly lubricated with the Dino gear oil that was attributed to the use of Dino oil. Maybe the lack of, or contaminated with.....
It is reported that synthetic oils can reduce friction in moving parts allowing a possible advantage over another that may not be using them. Should a guy with non-synthetic fluids keep finishing ahead of you, one might conclude he has a better built car or is a better driver.
John
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From: texas,earth
Originally Posted by azfordf100man
I don't hot rod the truck around or anything, I just want to give the truck good quality fluids. Sometimes I drive the truck a long distance and I figured the rp could help control heat, and I'm not sure if the diff is original or not? I also want to use the max atf but not yet as I just had the tranny rebuilt, so I'll use the fluid that's in it now and switch to rp when it's time to change.
So basically, rp is a good thing right?
Mike
So basically, rp is a good thing right?
Mike
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From: texas,earth
Originally Posted by azfordf100man
so which weight do You think?
Mike
Mike
First time the 46 went to Hammond ( about 540 miles) it had a 3.73 gear, 26" tall tires & a c-4. Never had a problem, and that was with 75w90 in August heat
And John, not that i don't like 99 cent burgers, i just like the 4.50 burgers from Hoffbrau better
Bottom line...they all make a turd in the end
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speaking of "seat of the pants"..an old estimation was that you need a diiference of at least 20 horsepower to feel a improvement in acceleration from what you had before..does anyone want to make a guess as to how many "hamburgers" that is?
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From: Madison, SD
Originally Posted by azfordf100man
So what do I need to do to get the cover off, etc?
Mike
Mike
!["Beemer Nut"'s Avatar](data:image/svg+xml;utf8,<svg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' viewBox='0 0 50 50'><circle class='avatar-circle-default' fill='%23bc5285' cx='25px' cy='25px' r='20px'></circle><text class='avatar-text-default' x='49%' y='53%' fill='white' text-anchor='middle' alignment-baseline='middle'>"</text></svg>)
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From: "Islander"
I rebuilt a BMW LSD then my friend used RP oil in it, the clutch plates moaned for over a month until the fluid was drained and Red Line 75/90 All Synthetic
gear oil added. $8.99 a qt. Within three days driving the moan was gone and it still has the 40% LS as built. Two long black rubber marks straight line, full power drifting turns. Plan "B" a special oil at $100 a gallon, ouch!
gear oil added. $8.99 a qt. Within three days driving the moan was gone and it still has the 40% LS as built. Two long black rubber marks straight line, full power drifting turns. Plan "B" a special oil at $100 a gallon, ouch!
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From: texas,earth
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
The cover does not come off of a 9" rear end, the center section, complete with gears, carrier, and all removes from the front. The first thing you have to do is remove the wheels and brake drums, then remove the four nuts holding the axle retaining plate in, and slide the axles out about 6" or so. Then get underneath and remove the nuts holding the center section to the differential housing and remove the center section..... NOTE--- be careful!!!! The center section is quite heavy and will ruin your entire day if it falls on your hand!!!!! Sometimes takes some LIGHT tapping and prying to get the center section to come loose. Once you get it to pop loose, remove the copper washers from each of the studs, too!!! Get a new gasket to reinstall the center section. While it's out, clean the center section and the axle housing THOROUGHLY with Stanasol or other type parts cleaner and dry it out with rags and an air hose. If you don't clean all the old grease and gunk out, you're just wasting your time putting in synthetic fluid, doesn't take much of the old junk to contaminate it.......