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Spark plug change

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Old Dec 3, 2007 | 09:44 AM
  #1  
ckramcke's Avatar
ckramcke
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Spark plug change

First I would like to thank all for the information you posted reguarding the problems I was having with my 5.4. I was having a misfire in the number 4 cylinder. Preceeding this problem i had a check engine light that I could not clear with the simple things ie. fuel filter, clean MAF, vacuum leak check ect.

As far as the spark plug change it went well. It took a long time but just tedius figureing which extension and universal combination to use. I did not have to remove anything to get the COPS off. The only thing i did was take the screws out of the computer mount on the passanger side so it would move around to get my hands to to 1st 2 plugs on passanger side. I got info from another member to get locking extensions from craftsman. A set of 3 3/8 extensions were 21.00. These are a must you can't get the socket out of that deep cave where the spark plug lives. I used antisieze on the threads and I torqued the first plug to see what 11 ft/lbs felt like and just tightened the rest without the torque wrench. There is not enough room to get in there with a torque wrench anyway.

I did have 1 problem which I would like to share. While working on the passanger side I took each plug out and replaced the plug but left the cops off and all the plugs for the fuel injectors off til i was finished with the side(so as to have as much room as possible. One problem with this method things can fall into the spark plug cave. Sockets or screws would not be a problem with a magnet to retrieve. There is a service valve for the AC above the 2nd from the back spark plug and there is a cap on it like a cap for the valve on the tires of the car to protect the threads. Well this cap found its way into the spark plug cave and you cannot see into the cave except with a mirror. I worked for an hour trying to retrieve what ever it was(did not know til i got it out). I uses a pc of wire bend with a hook on the end and some how i hooked it and got it out. I tried tape on the end of a screw driver but the cap was greasey and it would not stick. It was very frustrating to say the least. So look out for this problem. Also I mentioned a magnet. I used my magnet on a stick at least 10 times retrieving extensions screws ect.

All in all not too bad to do just time consumeing. Don't forget the locking extensions and magnet.

I used Motorcraft Plugs as per everybody recommendation. I use an aftermarket COP for the NO 4 cylinder and aftermarket boots which I replaced also.

As for my my misfire I believe it was due to a slight coolent leak in the heater hose that runs above the 2 passanger side sparkplugs. Both the No. 4 and the one next to it were rusty like they got wet from something There is a clamp there which I tightened. It wasn't that loose but I saw dried coolent on the metal hose there.

Again thanks to all.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2007 | 03:39 PM
  #2  
Bobcat7's Avatar
Bobcat7
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Joined: Jan 2007
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Man that brings back memories... The "can't see into the cave" thing made me think about the little pc of mirror I was using to get a glimps of what the h@#$... Glad to see you had fun too!!! I had a friend give me a magnet on like an antenna thing - never had to use it so much as with that deal too. And I never knew how much I needed that little piece of rubber in the socket to hold the plug in till you can pull it out. Magnet again. I think I used it to re-place the bolt in the cop under the fpr on the ds fuel rail too. And I thought that I was the only roundhead having issues with hand clearance etc...
 
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Old Dec 4, 2007 | 04:31 AM
  #3  
vze2sgxa's Avatar
vze2sgxa
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 467
Likes: 1
From: Where the war is...
Originally Posted by ckramcke
First I would like to thank all for the information you posted reguarding the problems I was having with my 5.4. I was having a misfire in the number 4 cylinder. Preceeding this problem i had a check engine light that I could not clear with the simple things ie. fuel filter, clean MAF, vacuum leak check ect.

As far as the spark plug change it went well. It took a long time but just tedius figureing which extension and universal combination to use. I did not have to remove anything to get the COPS off. The only thing i did was take the screws out of the computer mount on the passanger side so it would move around to get my hands to to 1st 2 plugs on passanger side. I got info from another member to get locking extensions from craftsman. A set of 3 3/8 extensions were 21.00. These are a must you can't get the socket out of that deep cave where the spark plug lives. I used antisieze on the threads and I torqued the first plug to see what 11 ft/lbs felt like and just tightened the rest without the torque wrench. There is not enough room to get in there with a torque wrench anyway.

I did have 1 problem which I would like to share. While working on the passanger side I took each plug out and replaced the plug but left the cops off and all the plugs for the fuel injectors off til i was finished with the side(so as to have as much room as possible. One problem with this method things can fall into the spark plug cave. Sockets or screws would not be a problem with a magnet to retrieve. There is a service valve for the AC above the 2nd from the back spark plug and there is a cap on it like a cap for the valve on the tires of the car to protect the threads. Well this cap found its way into the spark plug cave and you cannot see into the cave except with a mirror. I worked for an hour trying to retrieve what ever it was(did not know til i got it out). I uses a pc of wire bend with a hook on the end and some how i hooked it and got it out. I tried tape on the end of a screw driver but the cap was greasey and it would not stick. It was very frustrating to say the least. So look out for this problem. Also I mentioned a magnet. I used my magnet on a stick at least 10 times retrieving extensions screws ect.

All in all not too bad to do just time consumeing. Don't forget the locking extensions and magnet.

I used Motorcraft Plugs as per everybody recommendation. I use an aftermarket COP for the NO 4 cylinder and aftermarket boots which I replaced also.

As for my my misfire I believe it was due to a slight coolent leak in the heater hose that runs above the 2 passanger side sparkplugs. Both the No. 4 and the one next to it were rusty like they got wet from something There is a clamp there which I tightened. It wasn't that loose but I saw dried coolent on the metal hose there.

Again thanks to all.
Great feedback, thanks for sharing it. Question: Can't the torque wrench be used on the extensions?
 
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Old Dec 4, 2007 | 05:27 AM
  #4  
LxMan1's Avatar
LxMan1
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 22,436
Likes: 17
From: Louisville,Ky.
HMMM, my fuel rails weren't in the way. I didn't have to touch them.
 
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Old Dec 4, 2007 | 07:58 AM
  #5  
ckramcke's Avatar
ckramcke
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I guess if really tried I could have used a torque wrench but for 11-14 ft lbs I only had the wrench with the needle. my good torque wrench only goes down to 20 ft lbs (clicks when you have the torque). I could have bought a new one but probably 50-60 bucks, hope i didn't make a mistake we'll see and i will let everybody know if i blow a plug (crossing fingers).

I did not move the fuel rail.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2007 | 12:19 PM
  #6  
Modified 99's Avatar
Modified 99
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 285
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From: Ft. Worth, TX
There is a service valve for the AC above the 2nd from the back spark plug and there is a cap on it like a cap for the valve on the tires of the car to protect the threads. Well this cap found its way into the spark plug cave and you cannot see into the cave except with a mirror.

Again thanks to all.[/QUOTE]

This is a partial quote.


The fitting above the 2nd from the back is a vent for the fuel rail.
 
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