Hey, I need some advice from you wise and knowing sages before I start this project. My 87 4.9 F150 4x4 is going to get a long block (remanufactured). I had a couple of questions:

Can I do this with the hood open as far as it will go or am I going to need to take it off. I'm getting an engine hoist but it looks like I need to remove the hood.

Special tools: other than a couple, like the power steering pulley puller and the fuel line separator, am I going to need anything particular to this engine. I have everything else, torque wrench, clutch pilot, etc...

Where should I bolt the chains to remove the engine with the hoist? How many should I use?

Once the old engine is out any tips on how to stabilize it so I can pull all the components off (I assume I will need to take it off the engine hoist to get everything off).

Start-up (assuming it goes in and starts): should I just crank the engine with the coil disconnected to ensure oil has worked its way through the engine or do I need to do anything else?

Previous posts said this can be a one day job, does that sound about right?

Other gotcha's, traps or tricks anyone wants to share?

Thanks for any advice, words of wisdom, etc... I've R&R'd heads, water pumps, etc... before but never pulled an entire engine.

 

I use a bolt in the coil hole and on in the second from the rear top intake manifold hole. The far frunt and rear studs on the exhaust make good bolts that will screw in far enough, are strong enough and you can put nuts on the ends of the studs to make sure you cable or chain doesn't decide to slip off. If you remove all your extra junk first, it is easier. Do yourself a favor and rebuild your alternator and starter, and replace your clutch at the same time. If you have a standard, remember to disconnect the clutch pivot before you pull. You will have to remove your hood, radiator, and fan to get enough room to pull it out. It will sit fine on it's oil pan until you remove it's clutch and flywheel, then put it on a proper engine stand to remove the rest. Be careful with the exhaust and intake manifolds. check them for cracks and flatness. If they are not flat, seperate them and have them surfaced. (they are staggered the thickness of the intake gasket) I don't know about newer engines like yours, but the 60's vintage engines only have an intake manifold gasket from the factory. The exhaust is bolted directly to the head, no gasket. (tansfers heat better, but must be absolutely flat) Your gasket kit will probably have the intake and exhaust gaskets stapled together. If you are unsure leave them that way and use them both. BE VERY careful with your torque. The manifolds crack easily! No more than 25 Ft Lbs. Good luck. Herman

 

 

Just an update (as if anyone's interested). The engine was installed and I started it up tonight. Almost didn't start, I forgot to plug in one connector, don't know what it did but it can't run without it. I only have one oil leak so far, on the side cover for the push rods, If thats all I'll be happy.

Thanks for the advice it helped.

Does anyone know if the head gasket needs to be re-torqued and the valves readjusted after 500 miles or so? I thought re-torquing the head gasket depended on the kind of gasket, some need it some don't?

 

If you torqued the head properly then thats it , no further action is required . The valve lash is hydralyically controlled so no service is required there either .