Been away from the PC for awhile, getting an 84 skylark ready for an MVI this month, big job.

First an apology, I stated my Ford book states specs at 14ft.lb, actually my Ford book states "nothing about torquing spark plugs" I must have read that here or elsewhere on the net, sorry for the misinformation.

I also have a Haynes manual "Full sized Vans 92 to 2000" as in a previous post they also list the SP torque at 84 to 168 in-lbs. This book doesn't impress me at all, and to me it was a waste of $$ as there is little information of any value in it for my rig with the V10

Not really I guess, matter of opinion but same Hanes manual states the specs for the 4.6L; 5.0L; 5.4L; 5.8L; and 6.8L as all being 84 to 168 in-lbs
An added note here the manual only covers the 2 valve models, so in my reconing if 25 ft-lb is good for one 3 valve engine, why not all?
It's my understanding the 3 valve models have a few more threads for the plugs.

From reading all the specs around the net, I'm begining to suspect that Ford has been shotgunning and so far failed to come up with a decen't setting that can be relied on. Let's see (84 in-lb) ~7 foot lbs, can't be much if any over finger tight.


Cheers Willis

 

From my 2003-2004 Ford Service DVD it says 11lb.ft or 15Nm in two different areas. Another says 10Nm or 89 lb-in.

 

i have checked my new 1999 workshop (volume 2) manual that was reprinted in july 2005 and both the 5.4 & 6.8 say 8-12 nm or 71-106 inch lbs torque specs.

on that note one could think that the whole problem started by the spark plugs being over torqued at some point, resulting in the spark plug threads stripping out over time.
also being a bad design from ford.

just a thought.

 

I'm thinking Ford has made such a mess of this that they have no idea of what to do.

 

I am going with the guy from "blown out spark plug" site. 30lbs on all 10 plugs. I have torqued them to that twice and no problems.
The threads don't strip out because of over torqueing, they get loose from undertorqueing and then wobble until they destroy the threads and blow out.
14.lbs is very little torque on a spark plug with 5 threads in aluminum heads.
This 30lbs works
Andrew.

 

blownoutsparkplug.com is the site

 

Bro460 and Captchas,

The Helicoil website makes this caution" (See statement at the very buttom )

Check out helicoil website too.

http://www.helicoil.in/pdf/HeliCoil...arket%20Kit.pdf
.................................................. ...................

Spark Plug

Heli-Coil is the original spark plug port

thread repair. These kits offer the highest

quality and most durable repair available.

They are the first choice of professional

mechanics and engine rebuilders.

Kits are available in sizes M10, M12,

M14, M18, and 7/8". Each kit contains a

piloted reamer tap (no drilling necessary),

an installation tool, and a quantity

of inserts. The M12 and M14 kits contain

several insert lengths to accommodate

all spark plug reaches. Heli-Coil Spark

Plug Inserts are the preferred method of

repair specified by virtually all U.S. and

foreign vehicle manufacturers.

NOTE:

ports.

.............................
I would like to hear comments comment on this ? Thanks

Ken

 

i read the blown plug site, there i go over thinking.
it didnt dawn on me that a plug could vibrate loose - then stripping the threads.
this is my 1st time with these motors.

 

Does the blown plug guy recommend 30ftlbs. on a stock hole or just in his insert?

As far as the Helicoil warning, most Helicoils have a tang at the bottom. There is a tool you use to "spin" the insert into the hole. After you thread the insert in, you break the tang off. Something you don't want to do on a plug repair or a blind hole.

 

He recommends it with a stock hole. I am still on the fence how I would feel torquing at 30 ft lbs on just a few threads.

Doug

 

Very interesting to say the least. Since I had no idea of what the plugs in my V10 look like I did a search to find out. Didn't learn much about the plugs but found out theres more to this than meets the eye.
Now for the V10 there are two types of seats/threads whatever and although Ford has a chart describing them Ford has no idea of what seat is in which year models and to use the chart as a reference. Ah! well my 2000 V10 may have a type 1 or a type 3 and then again a 2003 2 valve engines may have a head that was used on a 99 which would be a type 1 instead of a type 3

Full Torque Ford Approved Repair

So even besides the Heli Coil disclaimer Ford has approved Only a hardened aluminum insert because of heat transfer differences in aluminum and steel.
I also notice Type 1 has only 5 threads whereas Type 3 has about 9 threads. The taper seat is different on both. This seems to be a long drawn out proceedure with the possibility of the tap dropping into the cylinder if threaded in too far. Ah! Well maybe $300 Ford authorized repair wasn't that bad a deal after all.
Ah! yes on the repaired spark plug hole the Torque is 34Nm (25lb-ft)
Interesting Whut?

In defense of the fix that started this thread, in any case the reaming and rethreading doesnt gouge out the taper seat, however there is also a taper at the bottom and that one I'm not too sure about unless the thread tap stops cutting before reaching the lower taper.

 

Yeah I would be VERY leary myself.

 

I don't know but maybe a maintenance schedule of thread cleaning and re-torque the plugs might be the way to go.

 

Having done it several times I will tell you that getting a real torque wrench in the van engine compartment is a real challenge, but can be done. I did mine recently. You undo the wiring harness bolts and that gives you enough movement to get the extensions on the plug socket. I used a Kawasaki sportbike long plug wrench that comes with the motorcycle and it has a 17mm head on it which really helps. You won't be able to get 30lbs on those plugs with a 3/8 drive socket handle. The plug moves very little between 15lbs and 30lbs, the threads just tighten down, but I do believe this is the anwer and when I came to undo the plugs I checked and it took 30lbs to undo them too, they didn't come loose. I will be checking mine every 40,000 just to make sure they don't come loose.
Andrew.

 

You do not need to remove the fuel rail on the vans.