I am working on installing some headers on a friends 95 with the 5.8. I purchased hooker long tube headers and had them ceramic coated. The plan is to run true duals and my main question is regarding the EGR system.

Can the EGR system just be capped off and not used at all? ( doesnt have to pass emissions) The exact piece I am refering to is the metal tube that runs down from the engine compartment and into the exhaust behind the converter, and the tube that runs from the EGR valve to the front of the exhaust manifold.

Where is a good place to get an O2 sensor bung?

Also does anyone know how hard it is to remove the passenger side head? It is a long story as to why, but we will just say it all started with the LAT freakin exhaust manifold bolt breaking and then an EZ out breaking! I am going to have to take it to a machine shop to get it removed.

 

[QUOTE=rpss4844]I am working on installing some headers on a friends 95 with the 5.8. I purchased hooker long tube headers and had them ceramic coated. The plan is to run true duals and my main question is regarding the EGR system.

Can the EGR system just be capped off and not used at all? ( doesnt have to pass emissions) The exact piece I am refering to is the metal tube that runs down from the engine compartment and into the exhaust behind the converter, and the tube that runs from the EGR valve to the front of the exhaust manifold.

Where is a good place to get an O2 sensor bung?[QUOTE]

Yes you can cap off the EGR and plate where it bolts to the intake, I have on my '96 motor with no problems but kept the sensor active to avoid any CEL, and I also have to pass a visual emissions. There is a jumper plug that fireguy has to delete the sensor. Some will say you shouldn't do this but I have had no emission/performance problems with doing this, I will say that my intake doesn't get as much carbon build up as it did no performance gains either.

O2 bung you can get at local auto store or a local muffler store for about $5.

It's not hard to remove the head, just time consuming. -Bob

 

To do the passenger side head you gotta pull the upper and lower intakes and the rest is pretty basic.......That damn upper plenum gets in the way.Get the weld in bung and have it out in the header collector.You could delete your smog setupo completely like I did......It's a 9/16 course thread bolt that threads into the back of the heads....if that's the route u want to go I'll go more in depth.Luck

JR

 

thanks for the responses! ONe more Q. Can I re-use the original head studs? I did a head job on a 99 f150 and had to replace them and the were expensive.

Flareside, what 9/16 coarse thred bolt exactly are you talking about that screws into the back of the head? I dont realy understand what u are trying to tell me, although I am sure it may be helpful to me in the near future!

 

Yes you can re use them although I never have.When you pull apart an engine (up to 96 as far as I know) the smog system has a thermactor tube that runs from one head to the other and bolts to the back of each head.If you want to completely eliminate the smog stuff you'll need to pull that thermactor tube and put that 9/16 bolt in it's place to plug the heads off.Like I said...if you want to do that I can take plenty of pictures as to what I removed and how I re routed.I'll be tearing her apart again soon because my dumb **** forgot to put the dowel pins back into the block and now my head gaskets aren't aligned properly.Drop a line and good luck.

JR

 

By Eliminating the Smog System, what does that do for the engine? Just wondering cuz im going to have to put headers on my bronco soon. Good luck on the passengers side. It looks fun lol

 

how do you plan on routing your true dual setup with the tcase in the way? unhooking the egr doesnt gain any performance and if its working why bother. the o2 sensor should be as close to the collector as possible preferably in a crossover tube where it can read both sides or have a bung welded to the long tube header. I dont understand why you need to remove the head on the engine. doesnt make sense. if you feel you need to remove the thermactor system that bolts to the rear of the heads just unbolt the upper intake so you can get back there.

 

I need to cap off the EGR becasue it runs into the passenger side exhaust manifold and there is no hole or anything on the new header. I need to remove the head to get the broken EZ out out of the hole that I drilled in the broken bolt! I was wondering about the placement of the o2 sensor, since I only have one. Guess it will onlty read one side!

As far as the routing of the duals go, I am going to have to do some more looking, but my intial thought was to turn the driver-side pipe over to the passenger-side right at the back of the transmission pan. This would cover the trans pan bolts on the back, but my system is going to be band clamped together so it should be easy removal if/when necesary

 

you know a single 3" exhaust will perform better on these trucks then a dual setup not to mention its much cheaper.

also if you ever plan on doing a solid axle swap on this rig the long tube headers can not be used.

 

If you don't want to ditch the smog system, and when I say somg I'm referring to the vapor canisters and all those vacuum line, just let the pipe hang down...I had mine like that for almost a year and it didn't harm a thing...all it does then is pump air.Luck

JR

 

So you think headers ran into a Y-pipe and 3" exhaust from there willl be the best. The headers I have are 2 1/2" collectors. I was going to run 2.5" exhaust all the way back into a dual in dual out muffler and then side pipes in front of the passenger side tire.

Why would a single 3" work better than tru duals?

 

well true duals on a bronco is kinda worthless. duals works great for hi rpm engines and is meant to be as strait as possible. because of the tcase etc.. that is almost impossible to accomplish. with duals you also must run an H pipe or X pipe.

do a search on this site for exhaust setups etc.. also running the length of the bronco and having it exit out behind the rear tire will help with low end vs having it out in front of the tire.

 

Takin it out the back will also keep you from choking on carbon monoxide.....the wye pipe has a better scavenging affect and helps your motor out alot...which is why if you use duals to get better power you'll have to run either an H or X pipe....more people like the X better though....Luck

JR

 

Take your header down to an exhaust shop and have them weld you the female tube from the old y pipe. Easy work. No need to delete.

Not a problem at all. I verified A:F ratios via a wideband in both collectors for the longtubes in my truck... the a:f was within 0.2 from 1500-5000 rpm. I currently have only one o2 sensor on the passenger side. Make sure the o2 bung is close in relation to the stock location.

Duals will be more of a pain than its worth. The transfer case will not help your situation. I ran a custom Y pipe that terminated behind the transfer case.

A single 3" outlet will far outperform the duals. The scavenging effect is huge.

From someone running long tube headers with a fully functioning EGR and thermactor system.

Mike

 

On my 1990, I found the easiest way to work on the exhaust was by removing the inner plastic fender...
I've done it twice, when I installed headers, and then when I went back to regular exhaust manifolds.