Vcv Where
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Vcv Where
I Have A 97 Ford Ranger 2wd Auto 3.0 Does Anyone Know Where The Vcv Is Located. Has Any One Purchased An Iac At Autozone...it Is So Much Cheaper Than Any One Else It Makes Me Wonder If It Is Woth It
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From: SW Va
Well I don't know exactly on the 3.0L, but you could just follow the EGR valves vacuum line over to the EVR solenoid.
Or maybe Autozones web site would have it's location listed graphically, in their replacement parts "component location" section.
Edit: Looked up a posting by oops, back in Feb 07 & she says the EVR is located back by the coil pack, on her 3.0L
Or maybe Autozones web site would have it's location listed graphically, in their replacement parts "component location" section.
Edit: Looked up a posting by oops, back in Feb 07 & she says the EVR is located back by the coil pack, on her 3.0L
Last edited by pawpaw; Dec 1, 2007 at 07:45 AM.
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I have been able to locate the VsV by following the vacuum line from the EGR and a little logical deduction. I was also able to find it was bad by using PawPAW'S suggestion of checking it while at cold idle. Now for another question how much would the VSV being bad affect my gas mileage and overall running of the engine I ask because it seems to be very rich on startup.I guess I will have to make a trip to AutoZone later. I'll keep you posted as far as my results
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From: SW Va
Well lets put it this way, if the EVR was applying vacuum to the EGR constantly, such that you always had some EGR, it sure wouldn't make the engine run better!!!!
Will be interesting to find out how much improvement you notice.
BTW, don't forget to pull the B- battery cable, while your replacing the EVR, so the computer will begin to relearn it's new fuel trim values & to erase the trouble code.
Will be interesting to find out how much improvement you notice.
BTW, don't forget to pull the B- battery cable, while your replacing the EVR, so the computer will begin to relearn it's new fuel trim values & to erase the trouble code.
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1)does anyone out there have an opinion regarding auto zone parts
2)if you had to choose between the VSV and the IAC to replace first which way would you go(money is a little tight right now)
2)if you had to choose between the VSV and the IAC to replace first which way would you go(money is a little tight right now)
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From: SW Va
Well post your trouble codes & symptoms, do the troubleshooting tests to narrow things down some & then go with the clues & facts obtained.
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Originally Posted by pawpaw
Well post your trouble codes & symptoms, do the troubleshooting tests to narrow things down some & then go with the clues & facts obtained.
Last edited by darascal; Dec 2, 2007 at 11:18 AM. Reason: BAD ENGLISH
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well I have replaced the VSV and gotten 0 results so I tried a few things
1)I got the engine to normal operating temp and pulled the vacuum line from the VSV to the EGR valve and found the although there is a little bit of movement it wasn't enough to operate the egr valve so I found a line that has constant flow and attached it to the EGR and I could hear the valve open and close. I then took the line that normally connects the VSV to the EGR and found that when hooked to the constant vacuum connection it has good flow and no breaks. I then checked all vacuum lines and and found all are connected and no leaks. Should the line between the VSV and EGR valve have been applying vacuum or is that a bad assumption on my part. any input is appreciated
1)I got the engine to normal operating temp and pulled the vacuum line from the VSV to the EGR valve and found the although there is a little bit of movement it wasn't enough to operate the egr valve so I found a line that has constant flow and attached it to the EGR and I could hear the valve open and close. I then took the line that normally connects the VSV to the EGR and found that when hooked to the constant vacuum connection it has good flow and no breaks. I then checked all vacuum lines and and found all are connected and no leaks. Should the line between the VSV and EGR valve have been applying vacuum or is that a bad assumption on my part. any input is appreciated
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From: SW Va
Yup, the Ford system isn't supposed to have EGR at Idle, WOT (Wide Open Throttle) or when the engine is cold, below 113F.
The EGR is supposed to wake up, when the engines temp reaches 113F, the TPS is at part throttle & the MAF is at mid range.
So you shouldn't have any vacuum on the line between the EVR & the EGR valve at a cold idle.
If you do, then the EVR is bad, or it's getting false commands from the computer for some reason, which means maybe the computer is getting corrupt info from another sensor, like the DPFE sensor, or maybe a acting out engine coolant temp sensor, MAF, TPS, TCC or the computer itself has problems, which is probaby the least likely imo.
You could test the EVR's electrical duty cycle (pulsed) input from the computer at cold idle, (the duty cycle should be zero or near zero), if it does have pulses , then look back to things like the DPFE sensor, or computers engine coolant temp sensor, TPS, MAF, TCC, or maybe corrupt engine rpm info, but seems to me if the computers RPM signal were corrupt, you'd be having tranny shift problems too.
Just some more thoughts for pondering.
Let us know what you find.
The EGR is supposed to wake up, when the engines temp reaches 113F, the TPS is at part throttle & the MAF is at mid range.
So you shouldn't have any vacuum on the line between the EVR & the EGR valve at a cold idle.
If you do, then the EVR is bad, or it's getting false commands from the computer for some reason, which means maybe the computer is getting corrupt info from another sensor, like the DPFE sensor, or maybe a acting out engine coolant temp sensor, MAF, TPS, TCC or the computer itself has problems, which is probaby the least likely imo.
You could test the EVR's electrical duty cycle (pulsed) input from the computer at cold idle, (the duty cycle should be zero or near zero), if it does have pulses , then look back to things like the DPFE sensor, or computers engine coolant temp sensor, TPS, MAF, TCC, or maybe corrupt engine rpm info, but seems to me if the computers RPM signal were corrupt, you'd be having tranny shift problems too.
Just some more thoughts for pondering.
Let us know what you find.
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with the engine at operating temp I removed the EGR valve and apllied constant vacuum to it and it does open however with the line from the control valve connected engine running and tranny in drive it never got enough vacuum to open the EGR and I tried a range of RPM als noted a good amountof rust in EGR(not carbon)
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From: SW Va
OK, then disconnect the EVR's electrical connector & measure the EVR's solenoid windings resistance. It should be between 30 & 70 ohms.
If that checks out ok, then set your multimeter to DC volts, turn the igntion switch to ON, but don't start the engine & measure the voltage at the EVR's electrical connector. You should have battery voltage there.
Let us know what you find.
If that checks out ok, then set your multimeter to DC volts, turn the igntion switch to ON, but don't start the engine & measure the voltage at the EVR's electrical connector. You should have battery voltage there.
Let us know what you find.