Wheel Bearing Question
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 90
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From: Milton, FL
Wheel Bearing Question
Any of you guys have experience with the rear wheel bearings on a 2002 (or other with IRS) Explorer? My right rear bearing next to the wheel appears to be going bad. I have a roar and the bearing has a slight amount of play. How big a deal is to press out the bearing and install the new bearing? Or are you better off just getting the new hub assembly? My local parts houses carry the bearing, however there are two bearings listed. One is $6 and the other is $67. My guess is that the $67 is the correct bearing. Any comments or advise is appreciated.
2002 Explorer Eddie Bauer 4.6L
2002 Explorer Eddie Bauer 4.6L
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the front end comes with a hub and bearing assembly to install---- the back end comes iwth a bearing and normally a hub and they are not assembled. reason is that the bearing pressed into the knuckle on the A-frame and the hub is pressed into the bearing. it is a two step assembly and needs to be done on a 20 ton press with a good table. knuckle is not flat and takes some shiming to level on the table. if you have a press and are a decent mechanic it can be done. this is not a first time job for beginners.-- also when pressing in the bearing remember, if the bearing is setting on the shaft and you are pressing on the outer race, you are loading the bearing rollers. press on the OD when instaiing the outer race and press on the ID when installing the inner race... that can be a problem.
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Milton, FL
Thanks Steve, I do have access to a press and the information you provided clears the process for me. I am going to give it a shot. I figure if I can press out the old bearing I will be in business. Thanks again.
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Milton, FL
Completed the replacement of the bearing Saturday morning. Went very well and saved a lot of money by just replacing the bearing instead of the hub and/or knuckle. I did however find that the parking brake shoes were in very bad shape. The pads were completely gone and the hardware was not usable. Of course the local parts house doesn't stock these parts so I will have to go back into the wheel rotor/drums tomorrow when the parts arrive.
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Milton, FL
The cheapest for the bearing in my area (LA - Lower Alabama) was O'Reily $66 plus tax and they had it in stock at the local store. Advance also carrys it at $74. After I purchased the bearing I knew why it cost so much. It is a very stout chunk of steel.
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Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Gilbert, AZ
cheapest here (phoenix, az) is NAPA at $142 per bearing. this is for the hub assembly bearing of course. Autozone and Checker (schucks, kragen, partsamerica) all wanted $180 and up. Advance auto wanted just as much. eBay has them for about $80 apiece shipped. I find that NAPA consistently has lower prices than the Autozones and Checkers and those types of places.....
Last edited by 4.0 Beast; Dec 5, 2007 at 01:00 PM.
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Milton, FL
Sounds about the same as here for the hub and bearing. I was fortunate to be able to get by with just the bearing. My hub and knuckle were fine. The bearing only was a National Bearing part number 516008.
I completed the replacement of the parking brake shoes this afternoon as well. What a pain. There is no room to work between the hub and the shoes. The right side took me an hour to replace. I learned a lot and the left side was about 15 minutes. I did however fail to properly adjust them. My backing plates don't have a hole to get to the adjusters, so off came the wheel to readjust.
I may never have to do this again, but if I do I have sure learned a lot and it will go much easier next time.
I completed the replacement of the parking brake shoes this afternoon as well. What a pain. There is no room to work between the hub and the shoes. The right side took me an hour to replace. I learned a lot and the left side was about 15 minutes. I did however fail to properly adjust them. My backing plates don't have a hole to get to the adjusters, so off came the wheel to readjust.
I may never have to do this again, but if I do I have sure learned a lot and it will go much easier next time.
Last edited by jimmeste; Dec 5, 2007 at 08:08 PM. Reason: Additional Information.
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I'm about to attempt this myself to avoid the $1000 the deal wants to do them. I dont have a press but found a machine shop thats willing to do the pressing. I was at first under the impression that I didnt need to bring the entire knuckle into the machine shop, and that they could press the hub and bearing for me separatly - I guess you guys are saying this is not the case? Did you replace all the nuts indicated in the ford service manual? I dont have any air tools - so no fork - am I going to be able to do this without that? I am also doign teh parking brake shoes, rotors and pads as well.
I could use any tips you guys had for me - is there a guide with pics I can take a look at? What wrench sizes do I need? I dont work in a shop anymore so I dont have access to ****loads of tools. Thanks for any help.
I could use any tips you guys had for me - is there a guide with pics I can take a look at? What wrench sizes do I need? I dont work in a shop anymore so I dont have access to ****loads of tools. Thanks for any help.
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Milton, FL
I did this in my garage and I have no special tools as well. You do have to take the entire knuckle with you to the press. Spray the joints with a good penetrant and soak them for a while before you try to seperate them. I used a rubber dead blow hammer for some gentle persuasion and they came apart with out much trouble. The emergency brake shoes are a bit annoying. I had to have the parts kit as well as the shoes.
Good luck.
Good luck.
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Joined: Sep 2003
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Also, yes I did get the brake hardware kit for the emergency drum brakes - I always do with all brakes, its not a good idea not to in my experience. I have PB blaster and I'll be spraying them all week with that until I get the parts. Thanks for the suggestions.
Also, I have 18mm and the 35mm socket, any other larger size tools I'll need? i have a 1/2" breaker bar and the strength of a gorilla, so I shouldnt have a problem with that
Also, I have 18mm and the 35mm socket, any other larger size tools I'll need? i have a 1/2" breaker bar and the strength of a gorilla, so I shouldnt have a problem with that
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 90
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From: Milton, FL
I reinstalled all the original nuts. Some say the axle nut should be replaced. They all looked fine and saw nothing that indicated a need to replace. PB Blaster can not be beat. You will have no problems.
No other tools needed. Typical brake tools will help, especially a spring tool.
No other tools needed. Typical brake tools will help, especially a spring tool.
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Joined: Sep 2003
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Quick question, do I need a spring compression tool to do this job? How about when I replace the upper control arm on the front? Can this job be done without a bearing puller, or will I just end up damaging the CV joint? i'm going to pick up a spring removal tool, but I have all the sockets I need I believe. I'm going to spray everythign down at least 24 hours before, but I dont think I'll have trouble. Mostly I'm just concerned about starting this job and not having a tool or part and havin now way to get to the store! I have a machine shop that wants to charge me $40/bearing - does that sound reasonable?