Truck is '05 F350 SupDuty, CrewCab, DRW, w/ diesel, auto, tow package etc.
Has factory HD rear face bar/bumper w/ 13K receiver with both the flat 4 pin and round 7 prong connector. Truck bed lights all work fine, no problems, brakes, turn, tail/running, etc.

Flat 4 pin conn has tail/running light power only.
7 prong round conn has 12v switched and tail/running power.
NO brake and or turning signal power at either connector.
The bed light loom branches off from a larger loom that terminates at the two trailer connectors.

Actually have had this problem since the first time I connected up over 1-1/2 years back. Been lucky towing w/out trailer lights and brakes in & about So West USA. Hey that Tow Haul transmission is GREAT, period...

I have not checked fuses, but will in the morning.

Also will need to check trailer brake controller, but am unknowledgeable as to how to do it with out a trailer connected. Advice here is requested.

 

I had a 2005 F-350 pre 03/23/2005 build date. Check and see the build date of your truck on the driver's side labeling. There is a Ford TSB about the trailer brake controller. At a standstill, only one volt of electricity goes back to the trailer. You have to be moving at 25 mph for the brakes to be applied with the brake controller. Ford will not correct, as they say that is how it was built. Your lights should work, even with this known fault. Ford dealerships have a neat plug in that can be checked in the shop. Either search under my name or "brake controller" and you can find the TSB, wait, I have it: TSB 18892. Good luck

After thought: Sounds like you bot the truck used. Also could be original owner did not know about the above and did some imaginative wiring. I know I rewired two trailers until I found out the real problem.

 

Thanks for the TSB number.

I bought the truck new, build was 12-04, took delivery later part of Jan. 05.

I will take the truck to local dealership and let them check the trailer connection for brakes, and also trailer lights while it is there. Again, the truck bed tail lights are working fine, just no trailer brake/turning lights.

I do all my own repairs, (cheap, yes!) and have wired/rewired trailers for local racers for years. I will be adding a second 7 pole trlr connector in the truck bed to accommodate my Chaparral goose neck race car trlr. I'll keep the factory 7 pole bumber mount also as I use it for towing my two axle flatbed for my big old heavy BobCat 863 w/ 2 buckets and backhoe attachment.

 

Hotrodracer:
I fully understand. I have a T-180 Bobcat w backhoe, grader and bucket attachments. I was livid about the brake situation. I also was lucky. I complained to the NTSB. I think I am the only one that had this good fortune. The NTSB paid for my updated brake controller and also paid to have FORD install the updated version. A couple members in this forum called the NHTSB, and they are investigating, but not buying any more old units. Good luck in your fix. I tried to buy one of those seven prong testers from Ford dealership, but they said only dealers are allowed, which I thought was BS.

 

Again you have provided great information on the brake controller. I will also contact NTSB to add to the complaint file. We haul heavy loads and need trailer braking at all speeds, not just over say 25MPH.

ALSO: My regular brake pedal has from the getgo no been firm, and is worse when towing. The pedal keeps going down when depressed. Worse when towing as it almost reaches the floor sometimes. Gives me the uneasy feeling that one day I will have no brakes when / if an emergency arises. I do not follow close and leave plenty of stopping clearance, but an emergency is just that, stop right now and w/ a firm pedal...

Trying not to belabor the point or waste your time, but I do appreciate your knowledge and history in this matter. Respects, hotrod/Paul

 

Redundant double post and not needed.

 

I do not have his name, but someone on this forum gave me the TSB number and explanation many months ago. Much like yourself, I was so relieved to have closure to know that the brakes worked, but only when moving over 25 mph. I sort of have been on a one man crusade. When traveling, fuel stops at flying J, I always ask about what year and compare notes with other Super Duty owners.

 

Actually, I don't think you have to going 25 MPH +, but as soon as you hear/see the door locks go down, you have trailer brakes. All the lights work from the get go - brake, flashers and turn signal. It's just that you do not get trailer braking until you are over whatever speed it is that the door locks go down. What I usually do after hooking up and going thru the light check is to start down my street (or wherever) and wait till I hear the locks go down, then reach down and pull the manual level on the controller to check the brakes. When they grab, you know it! What I miss is beong able to make sure the 5er is hooked correctly. With my old 250, I could hold the manual lever and try to pull forward. This would test the brakes AND insure that the 5th wheel was connected correctly. Now I have to pull the emergency break-away pin to test for correct hook-up. Believe me, you don't want to know taking off from the 1st stop light/sign that your 5th wheel is laying in the bed behind the hitch - been there, done that!

 

Guys, remember that the lights & turn signals, etc, for the trailer connector are not wired directly to the truck system. There are fuses and relays for each function................they are there to isolate the truck system from the trailer, ie, blowing a fuse from faulty trailer wiring won't leave you without functioning truck lights.

 

A search of the NHTSA.com site for 05 F350 SupDuty brake controller related complaints gave me 7 hits for such. Interpolated that could be many many who have probs, but not reported to the NHTSA...

Also gleaned 3 Ford TSB numbers: 18887, 18892, and 051511. If I recall, the 18892 was listed earlier on this forum a day or so past.

I'm going to one of the local dealers and get more info, and let them check out my trlr plug. Also see if their plug checker is avail to the trade as we buy at whlse/garage prices.

Prob last post (gotta get back to biz) unless I get some good info to pass along, Si?

hotrod/Paul

 

Keep in mind that all of those functions are run through fuses and relays. Some under the dash and some under the hood. Might want to make sure all of those are good before you go to the dealer. Check you manual and find the locations.

 

I just tried mine on two of my trailers and they both worked at speeds less than 10mph. In facted I cranked it up to 10 on the controler and with both trailers empty, the trailer tires locked up.

 

I think the early Tow Command controllers did work somewhere around 15-20 MPH, and the later ones were changed - the kickin speed lowered. Don't quote me on that, tho, just something I seem to remember reading somewhere.

 

This was on the early 05's that had the speed thing . After that they changed the IBC.Worst case is replace the factory IBC with an 06 MY .

 

Build date is what determines. March 2005 and before, problems. March 2005 forward, the problem was corrected. You can go to the TSB I posted for more info. GWIZRC, you should check your build date. Please post results. THX.