All right. I have a 1980 F150 with 300 and mild improvements (see signature). What I am lacking is either a header or efi manifolds. A couple of questions for you guys who have done headers. Is there any difference between the 2wd header and the 4wd header other than primary tube size? Can I use the 2wd one on a 4x4. I have a lead on one from a guy but it is for a 2wheel drive model. Second does someone make the y pipe to connect them or do I have to fab one? I just want to run 2 1/2in pipe to a cat/muffler/single outlet. I have a flowmaster muffler already. Is a header a good choice for my modifications or should I go with the efi manifolds? Any info would be great! I have an exhaust leak and it gives me the perfect excuse to do the exhaust like I should have done it in the first place. I figured you guys would know which set up would be best.

 

If your engine is mostly stock,you will be better off using the EFI exhaust manifolds.A bunch cheaper too.They can usually be had from a salvage yard for appx $40.00 to $50.00 dollars.

Leo

 

In all honesty I would suggest going with a header over the EFI manifolds. I have run both and I prefer running a header(with performance in mind of course), the cost is roughly the same. I currently am running a Hedman header on my 84 F150 4wd. They claim it will only fit a 2wd, but it fit right into my 4wd without too much trouble. IIRC I think I paid $160 for it from Jegs. I too am running the dual collector into a single pipe exhaust, I had to fabricate my own Y-pipe. I found using a couple pre-bent turndowns Y-ed together and a short length of pipe (the diameter you want you exhaust system to be) is the easiest way to set it up... provided you you have access to a welder of course. When you bolt your header on I suggest using doubled up factory manifold gaskets, also I recommend siliconing them together and putting a thin coat on the gasket surfaces. This will insure you never have leaks, for silicone I strongly recommend using Permatex Ultra Copper silicone. This stuff will more than handle the high temperatures of your exhaust system. I use it on any exhaust pipe connection that is clamped, and for clamps I use the stainless steel Ultra Seal (Napa brand) "band type" exhaust clamps. Most of the joints on my systems are welded but I like to have at least one that is clamped... in case I ever have to remove the exhaust system in the future. You will notice a big increase in low end torque, mid range power, and mileage. I hope this helps.

 

Pkupman82 and woodbutcher05 thank you for you replies. I think I will go with the header as well. My motor is mostly stock, but with the cam and the intake/carb combo it is a lot better. All I was missing was the exhaust side. Since there is no clearance issues with the 2wd header that is what I will go with. I do have a mig welder and have friends at a machine shop so I can get the pipe made easily enough. Last question. Do I need a new type of bolt to hold the header on with the double gasket? Will the stock studs still hold the intake and header flush against the head? I am hoping to have this done soon, but I like to get everything together so I don't have to stop in the middle to get a bolt or something.

 

The stock manifold bolts will work but I replaced mine with ones that were about 1/4" longer than stock and added some bigger diameter thick washers for a little more clamping power... this also helps for preventing leaks. The bolts that come with the collectors are only grade 5, you may want to go to a stainless or grade 8 bolt. If you go with the Hedman header, they have ball type collector flanges... they can be a real pain to keep tight especially if you use the truck off road. I bought longer bolts for the collectors and installed stainless steel springs on them... this keeps constant tension on the bolts but still allows for flexability of the exhaust system. Is your truck an automatic or a 4 speed? Do you have any pics posted?

 

I will also vote for headers. Going from EFI manifolds to headers was night and day on a stock engine. The Heddmans don't have a ball collector, they are a standard header flange. Buy some copper gaskets for them or you'll be throwing gaskets at it left and right.

 

All right you sold me! Headers it is! I was browsing on summit racing and they have a grade 8 bolt kit for it I was interested in. I have to look into all what comes in it because I may be able to get the individual items cheaper then the kit costs. I will also use larger washers, because I like the idea of it being more secure and not leaking. I have run the copper collector gaskets before on my first project car I got rid of, a Monte Carlo SS I bought as a teenager. I will absolutely use them again. They were the only thing that didn't blow out every 5 days or so. I had a graphite based header gasket the worked well on them too, do they make one for the 300? I think it was a Mr. Gasket , well gasket.

My truck is a 4speed T-18, and sorry but I don't have a gallery set up yet. I will be putting one up but the truck isn't up to where I want it to be to show people how it looks. Plus I have my "winter tires" on it right now. 33 12.50 15 Goodyear Silent Armor on some rims I found at a yard sale for $50 for the set of 4. They are american racing rims with the holes around the outside edge. They are 15x10

Once again, thanks for all the info Gentlemen!

 

That's strange my Hedmans have ball collectors... hmmm maybe they changed em.

 

x2

 

So your telling me the 2-w will work? I ended up spending 300+ for mine from Clifford! Along with a 900 Dallor head and Cam kit I think I payed there morage for last month! Should Have joined/read here first!! (Dont tell the wife)

 

How are you planning on running the rest of the exhaust? Are you running duals or making a 2 into 1 system. What muffler if any are you planning on running. I Have a flowmaster and it sounds pretty good. Single pipe after cat, single tail pipe, not duals. I think the 4wd header has bigger primary tubes so maybe with the head and cam it will be worth the extra money.

 

When running headers something to check is the collector length. The lower the RPM of the motor, the longer of a collector it will benefit from. Most headers out there have a collector that works best in the 8,000 rpm range (not kidding).

For something like a 300 a collector length of 24"+ (based on packaging) would be alot better than the 3" looking one in the picture on summit racing

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

all the extension really needs to be is a piece of pipe off of the collector with a mtaching diameter. heck, a glasspack attached straight to the collector will act like a collector extension if the diameters match. the collector "ends" when the exhaust sees it's first major change in pressure (like stepping down from 2.5 to 2.25 or even stepping UP from 2.5 to 3)

Justin

 

hey guys im new here... and the manifold and exhaust on my f150 are making me more and more mad.... so i was thinking about the hedman header for it and was looking to see if its a direct bolt on or if i had to modify stuff (ive read you have to notch out the alternater bracket?)

i was also curious if the manifold will come off easy or if i should expect hell

im dealing with an 82 300 l6 2x4 stock everything

thanks

 

Hey blue, my Hedman hedders got here today. Here's a shot. I haven't installed them yet so I'm not sure if I will have to modify anything or not. I have been measuring things out; they look like they will clear the starter. I'm not sure about the alternator bracket because I have it off the engine at the moment. My stock manifolds came out pretty easily; just work the flange bolts slowly. I would soak them in PB blaster overnight too. Welcome to the site by the way.

 

For the most part the Hedman header is a direct bolt on, you will have to hog some meat off the alternator bracket for clearance... that's not a big deal. Like any other long tube header system you will need to fabricate your own exhaust system, the Hedmans are a dual collector set up. You can run true duals or fabricate a Y-pipe and run single. I opted to build a Y-pipe and run 3" single on my truck. The intake/exhaust manifolds on the carbed 300 Fords usually don't fight too badly coming off. The stock set up weighs a ton compared to the aluminum intake/ header set up. The only thing I ran into problems with on the manifolds is the 2 bolts and the stud that hold the two manifolds together. More often than not, they snap off... a little heat and some PB Blaster penetrating oil will fix that.