My scanner returns:

P1409 Electronic Vacuum Regulator (EVR) control circuit malfunction

Could some kind soul please elaborate on what the problem could be and how I can fix it? Where could I find the EVR on my '96 I6 F-150?

Thanks!
-Nick.

 

theleetbeagle:

Try this website, its dedicated to OBDII. Hope you can find what you're looking for. Otherwise call your local Ford dealer and ask them to price one out for you.

http://www.obdii.com/obdii.html



1981 F-150 2WD STYLESIDE P/U
4.9L 1 BBL CARB
C6 AUTO
2.73:1 LIMITED SLIP REAR AXLE
STABILIZER BARS FRONT & REAR
6100 LB GVWR PACKAGE
ORIGINAL OWNER
198,400 PLUS MILES
100% STOCK & UNREBUILT
BUILT FORD TOUGH!!!

 

Ford/Lincoln/Mercury
code: P1409 (EGR Vacuum Regulator Solenoid Circuit)
-------------------------------------------------------
Good luck...let me know what you find.


1981 F-150 2WD STYLESIDE P/U
4.9L 1 BBL CARB
C6 AUTO
2.73:1 LIMITED SLIP REAR AXLE
STABILIZER BARS FRONT & REAR
6100 LB GVWR PACKAGE
ORIGINAL OWNER
198,600 PLUS MILES
100% STOCK & UNREBUILT
BUILT FORD TOUGH!!!

 

Hello,

I just resolved a P1110 code (IAT Sensor.. Cost $21) and shortly after the replacement of the IAT sensor, I got the P1409 code. And this time the MIL comes and goes. First.. Where does the "EGR Vacuum Regulator Solenoid Circuit" reside?

and #2 has anyone else ever heard of this occuring?

I spoke with FORD parts and was informed it could be one or both of Vac Reg at $20.50 or the EGR Pres Valv at $73.93

I'm going to reseat the connectors on the two parts that ford suggested.. I hope this resolves the problems.

Regards, Chris

 

EGR Vacuum regulator should be on the driver side of the valve cover towards the back of the motor. There are three solenoids mounted on a bracket there. The black one with the round cap is the EGR VR. There is a filter located under the round cap that sometimes gets dirty and needs to be rinsed out in the kitchen sink. Just pop it off with your hand and you'll see what I mean. I clean mine every time I clean my air filter. You also might want to make sure the vacuum line isn't cracked. That will cause problems for this device, too.
The other two solenoids are the Thermactor Air Diverter and The Thermactor Air Bypass (TAD & TAB). Sometimes referred to as Air Management Solenoids 1&2.
Good luck

 

 

My Ford Explorer 1997 Eddie b. V8 5.0..the check engine light was on..the mechenic checked it ..the code p1409 came on...the solinoid was 35.1 ohms..so the mechenic changed the EGR positioning sensor..but the light is still on..does anyone help whatelse need to be done?

 

...Welcome Ted021 to Ford Truck Enthusiasts!

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Hi FTE's,

I have not seen any responses to Ted's question.

I .. Once again.. have the P1409 error. I replaced the EGR solenoid and the MIL is still activated (despite reset). I checked the resistance of the old part and new part and both are close at around 35 ohms. Vacuum line looks ok. Is there any way to test the EGR Pres Valve? Any and all suggestions greatly appreciated!

-Chris

 

If the solenoid has the correct resistance, you either have a wiring harness or PCM fault.

Steve

 

What projectSHO89 said. OBD2 is smart enough to know the difference between a mechanical fault and an electrical fault. If you have a circuit code for the EVR solenoid there are only 4 possible causes: a bad EVR solenoid, a bad computer, open or short in the EVR power wire, open or short in the EVR ground wire.

 

This is great information. Thanks for the replies. Pardon my ignorance. Is there a good reference out there that can show where the ground, PCM and other connectors are located? -Chris

 

The PCM is in the driver's kick panel. It sends both power and ground to the EVR. I would just check both terminals of the connector with a test light and make sure both are doing what they should be.

 

I have had this "recurring" problem with a P1409 code:
EGR Vacuum Regulator circuit malfunction
Electronic Vacuum Regulator Control circuit fault


I get this intermittent in the summer and it usually goes away after the temperature drops.
We are having out of season temperatures in NC these days, I am now allowing my daughter to drive
the vehicle.. And I'm NOW thinking it is time to dig further in how to resolve this.

Can someone out there tell me what the expected voltage is when the EGR solenoid gets activated?
Are one of the two contacts suppose to go to ground (I suspect so..)
Which wiring block to start looking at?

Any clues/direction would be greatly appreciated!

-Chris

 

I am new to this forum but you will alway have 12 volts on the solenoid terrminals when mesured using chassis ground at idle. That is because the computer has not yet "pulsed" the solenoid to ground..

Crank the engine and manually ground the terminal to the chassis that is opposite the termainl that has 12 volts on it when the connector is disconected.

The engine should idle rough or stall..indicating the solenoid and egr is working...


Quick check hur??

Bobby