Here's a quick recap of my situation:

1. Romps when it is cold and even when it was not so cold as I would have liked.

2. Checked the GPs and they are all well within limits.

3. Checked the GPR and it was passing at least 12 volts each time.

Now that was in the past in the spring and then this summer it was not an issue. As it got cooler, romp came back. I saw the IPR rebuild post and considered that. I also thought about the synthetic oil fix but did not think that was the problem.

So the other morning when it was about 30* outside, I jumped the GPR posts with a large screwdriver for 60 seconds. Jumped down and went and turned the key. Cranked up like new. Today I measured the GPR and it was only showing 11.2 volts in the WTS mode. No good.

So now I am awaiting this GPR from evilbay. After I get it I will post results. Before anyone posts about the Stancor guzzle unit, I have my reasons for not going that route. I will post the observations. I think my romp was a weak GPR. <table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" width="100%"><tbody><tr bgcolor="#ccccff"><td align="right" nowrap="nowrap">
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I'm interested in hearing the results of this GPR replacement. I haven't checked my output from the GPR but maybe i should. Question; When your truck romps, does it just romp romp romp kinda romp then run smoothly after that? This is what mine does since it was about 2 years old. You can listen to others start there trucks when it's cold out and theirs romp also, I thought this was just 7.3L diesel. Humm maybe not.

 

mine romps to

 

We replaced the GPR in my sons '91 IDI last night, but something I found strange, we put new Batts in at about this time last year, when he turns the ign on, it drops to 10volts, when he hits the starter, it drops to just around 9v or less, 8.5. Seems his new batts are junk already. Am I correct?
Luckily they are 3 year free replacement.
I noticed the new GPR stays on longer then the old one did.

 

Yeah maybe they are. I just put 2 Motorcraft BTX 65 850's in my truck because of low power from my OEM batts and it cranks hard and quickly now but it will still romp a few times when cold.

 

Yeah, I guess I kind of know it in my Heart, I guess we just need to go to Wallyworld tonight and get them changed. I know it doesn't crank like it used to.

 

Mine romps as well, but my buddy has the same truck, nearly same miles with synthetic oil and his does not. Who knows... I dont like it when it does this, sounds hard on it. Almost like the sound of a DP with lope idle, sort of.

 

It probably won't do much.
I can start my truck without hitting the glow plug button (converted to manual control) and it will cough once then run, no romps, but with a bunch of white smoke.
I'll be surprised if it fixes your romps, but I really think it's some quirk in the programming that is the root cause. IPR overcompensating for too-high HPOP pressure, vs not enough pulse width or something like that.

 

my last set of wally batteries lasted almost 13 months

 

Hey Mike, I bought that same GPR a month ago as a spare. The different sweep-contact design seemed to make sense.

 

What does the Romp Romp sound like ?

 

It might not be the fact that they are junk, they just might not be big enough.


Now thats results!!! (man thats terrible) This is why I stick with interstates.

If your truck hasnt done it yet, you will know immediately what the romp romps are as soon as it happens. Genereally occur with very cold starts. The rpms will rev up and drop very fast, and no kidding it sounds like "rrrrrrrroooommmp, rrrrrrrrrrooommmp" very fast like. You can usually make it dissapear while its happening by hitting the gas pedal. Which I think is why kwik thinks its a programming issue/glitch

 

"It might not be the fact that they are junk, they just might not be big enough. "

They are 1000 cranking amps and did real well last winter.

 

Well then maybe my statement should be reversed, and that means you have similar findings to rbaker.

 

Back on topic, Tenn, if it does what he says, and hes not just selling snake oil, that looks like it will be a good find! I would like to see a datasheet on the relay. If it was sold to the military, you know theres got to be a datasheet around. When you receive it, I would ask of you to look for a manufacturer marking, and or p/n if possible.