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Old Nov 28, 2007 | 06:41 PM
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Question 2100 choke vacuum control

I picked up a remaned 2100 for my '72 and I found out choke vacuum control on the back of the carb is frozen. I can't find anyone who carries it, let alone knows what it is. Are these parts still produced and if not is there another way to make it work? Thanks
 
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Old Nov 28, 2007 | 11:38 PM
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This is called a choke pull-off. Using this name will make your parts search easier. If this is a 2100, then this is mounted vertically behind the choke tower on the air horn; is that how yours is set up? How is it frozen specifically? All it needs to do is move up and down. They're pretty simple - just a diaphragm with a slug attached, so I would imagine that whatever is preventing it from moving should be easy to free, unless the diaphragm is too stiff from age. Nonetheless, if you need a new one, many manufactures make them - Napa, GP Sorenson, Standard, etc. You should be able to get it from just about any parts store.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2007 | 12:49 PM
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It's not on the top but on the passenger side behind the choke themostat. It has a climate controlled choke. My motors manual calls the part " Choke vacuum control assembly ". The vacuum line runs from the vacuum port under the pull off into the " Choke vacuum control assembly " and it hooks up to the linkage that comes off choke plate. Both the pull off on the top and this part operate the same rod for the choke just on different sides. If I knew how to post pictures I'd do it. If the carb will work fine without it I'll just leave it off but I figured there has to be a reason for putting it there.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2007 | 02:07 PM
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Interesting. The only vacuum mechanism I'm aware of on the passenger side is the choke pull-off for the 2150. Some very early model Autolite 2100's have a pull-off piston internal to the choke housing. So you have the pull-off behind the choke tower on the air horn like I mentioned, but you also have a separate vacuum valve on the passenger side as well? For a total of two vacuum-operated mechanisms operating the choke? Let me know. If you happen to be able to get pictures that would be great.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2007 | 09:13 AM
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Well I guess I figured out how to post picts. Its the part that hangs out to the left. Leave it to me to have a one year part. If I can't find a new one will an electric choke be better?
 

Last edited by BOSSv10; Nov 30, 2007 at 09:15 AM.
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Old Nov 30, 2007 | 10:48 AM
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Thanks for sharing those pictures. I have to say I haven't seen that before. I would say, though, that as long as the choke pull-off and the choke cap work properly, you can get away without it. I would just leave it off. As for an electric choke, there really isn't any reason to switch to one unless you're having problems with the hot-air choke. I run a hot-air choke on one of my vehicles and it does great. Originally electric chokes were introduced as additions to the hot-air system so that the choke would open faster and reduce emmissions. Nowadays, however, you can get fully electric chokes that tend to be less problematic. However if you don't get any trouble with the one you've got on there now then there is no need to replace it with an electric one.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2007 | 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by BOSSv10
I picked up a remaned 2100 for my '72 and I found out choke vacuum control on the back of the carb is frozen. I can't find anyone who carries it, let alone knows what it is. Are these parts still produced and if not is there another way to make it work? Thanks
1972: There 8 different 2100 carb parts lists. It depends upon the following:

Engine size, transmission type (3 or 4 speed manual, C4 [302 engine] or C6 [360/390 engine]), F100, F250, F350, sold new in CA, or non CA.

CA vehicles will have a DSO code of 71 or 72.

If you still have the carb ID tag, that will be a big help.

List that info, I'll pass along the Ford & Motorcraft part numbers.

All the 2100 carb parts are not created equal.
 

Last edited by NumberDummy; Nov 30, 2007 at 11:55 AM.
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Old Nov 30, 2007 | 04:55 PM
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The tags first line reads D2GF AA and the second line if you need it is A 1G 7. It came off a 302 with a c-4 auto, thanks.
Thanks for the help fmc400. Any suggestions on which brand of electric choke is best. Just in case I can't get it to work or get a new part.
 

Last edited by BOSSv10; Nov 30, 2007 at 05:00 PM.
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Old Nov 30, 2007 | 05:16 PM
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No problem - Napa tends to have better stuff although it is usually somewhat expensive. Borg Warner is usually pretty good. I don't think there are a whole lot of differences between anything you'll pick up at any of the major parts stores.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2007 | 12:45 AM
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Originally Posted by BOSSv10
The tags first line reads D2GF AA and the second line if you need it is A 1G 7. It came off a 302 with a c-4 auto, thanks.
Thanks for the help fmc400. Any suggestions on which brand of electric choke is best. Just in case I can't get it to work or get a new part.
I'm sure glad you have that tag number because the carb isn't original to the truck...it's off a 1972 Ford/Torino/Mustang/Maverick 302.

D2AZ-9S514-H .. Control Assy-Vacuum Break (Motorcraft CK-1985)

NAPA can cross the Motorcraft number over to their brand.
 

Last edited by NumberDummy; Dec 1, 2007 at 12:47 AM.
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Old Dec 2, 2007 | 07:53 AM
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I guess thats what happens when you buy an old farm truck that turns out to be the frakintruck. Turns out the engine is out of a later LTD, I'm guessing a II.
Thanks for the help. I'll give Napa a call and see what they have to say.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2008 | 11:27 PM
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Originally Posted by fmc400
This is called a choke pull-off. Using this name will make your parts search easier. If this is a 2100, then this is mounted vertically behind the choke tower on the air horn; is that how yours is set up? How is it frozen specifically? All it needs to do is move up and down. They're pretty simple - just a diaphragm with a slug attached, so I would imagine that whatever is preventing it from moving should be easy to free, unless the diaphragm is too stiff from age. Nonetheless, if you need a new one, many manufactures make them - Napa, GP Sorenson, Standard, etc. You should be able to get it from just about any parts store.
What happens if the choke pull-off diaphram is torn? Are there any tell tale symptoms?

This is regarding the 71 F250 Automatic with basic 360 with Autolite 2100 suffering from idle problems and leaking gas causing extending cranking at startup after sitting.

Thanks!
Paul
 
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Old Mar 21, 2008 | 12:00 AM
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Hi Paul - for a 2100, if it is torn, it will not "sit" while the engine runs. With the truck running, it should be push itself all the way down. If, while the engine is running, you can push it down quite a ways, then the diagphragm is ruptured.

These are easily available from many parts stores, they look like this (on its side). This image was taken from Advance Auto's site.


 
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Old Mar 21, 2008 | 12:42 AM
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Great info! Thanks for the prompt reply.
 
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